Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | Crag | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
19 | ★★ Beckoning Horizon
1
19
2
14
3
12
4
13
5
15
6
11
Starts at the left-hand end of the overlap that forms the roof to the right of Badile.
FA: M. Moore & M. Haffner, 1991 | 190m, 6 | Peak Charles | ||
18 | ★★ Juluka
1
15
30m
2
18
30m
3
15
50m
Situated just to the right of the cave-like gully that separates the Central Gully from the Northern Buttress. There are some huge overlaps and cracks here, but unfortunately the overall angle is very low. This climb takes the left hand overlap where the rock is steepest. Start in the gully immediately below the waterfall (2nd abseil pitch for rappel descent route).
FA: M. Moore & M. Haffner, 1990 | 110m, 3 | Peak Charles | ||
14 | ★ Office Workers Rule the World
Climb starts from the sloping edge above and to the left of the start of Badile.
FA: S. Harris & B. Dowrick, 1994 | 150m, 5 | Peak Charles | ||
19 | ★★★ Spartacus
1
19
35m
2
17
10m
The very obvious right-facing test piece corner on the right side of Spartacus Flake. A classic climb. It loses stars and you lose bits of flesh if you attempt to offwidth the top rather than climb the face.
FA: P. McKenzie & R. Master | 45m, 2 | Peak Charles | ||
11 | ★★★ Badile
A favourite classic. At the foot of the face is a distinct long overlap across a black slab (Beckoning Horizon), start to the left.
FA: M. Adams & B. Adams, 1987 | 290m, 9 | Peak Charles | ||
18 | ★★★ Quoll Spotting
Lovely face climbing just left of The Antechinus. Start up the first two bolts of The Antechinus then make a glamorous traverse left on ideal jugs. Grab the quoll by the tail and make a final step up and left with finesse. Cruise up the upper face on crimps, incut flakes and foot jugs. Trends right after the last bolt and shares the lower off on The Antechinus. FA: Neil Gledhill & Kate Swain, 16 Apr 2022 | 30m, 10 | Peak Charles | ||
13 | ★★ Last Tango in Widgiemooltha
Start in the gully right of Juluka below Guano Roof.
FA: R. Rathbone & M. Smith | 160m, 4 | Peak Charles | ||
19 | ★★★ The Antechinus
A fine route. Enjoyable and memorable face climbing on "gold class" rock. 3 pitches.
FA: Neil Gledhill & Katherine Swain, 15 Apr 2021 | 90m, 3, 10 | Peak Charles | ||
26 | ★★ Golden Shower
Climb straight up slab to first First bolt and then stay right of bolts until delicate traverse at 6th bolt that leads to a powerful finish. Ends on a victory jug at the first Anchors. The extension is an open project. It gets the name from a stream of water that came down on Henry at subset when the wall is in golden light. FA: Henry McNamee, 16 Apr 2022 | 20m, 8 | Peak Charles | ||
24 | ★★★ Mr Pharmacist
Mick describes this as one of his best routes ever. Located 10 metres to the right of Santa Claus this line heads directly up the centre of the wall. Several pieces of pro are required, the remainder being painstakingly bolted over several weekends. A must do. FFA: Mike Haffner, 1997 | 40m, 9 | Peak Charles | ||
18 | ★★ Friends for Life
Chimney 10m right of Spartacus Flake, follow crack above. Start 10 metres right of Left Edge at the Spartacus Flake, from the left side of the gully/chimney. Up the short chimney, then exit into crack above (crux) to reach easier ground. Directly up to finish at the same belay as Left Edge and Spartacus. Mid size cams come in handy at crux. Belay (DBB) from top of flake. FA: Ross Weiter & J Gregg, 1997 | 45m | Peak Charles | ||
17 | ★★ Stormbringer
”Big wall” fun. Start 25 metres right of Riders On the Storm. Scramble 5m up to gain a small ledge that is 3 metres below a large block forming a left-rising overlap.
Descend as per Riders On the Storm. FA: J. Gregg, Ross Weiter & J.Gregg, 1998 | 140m, 3 | Peak Charles | ||
15 | ★★ Conquistador
1
15
50m
2
13
42m
3
15
24m
4
14
30m
5
15
50m
6
3
50m
7
3
50m
A fine outing up fairly steep rock.
FA: G. Phillips & S. Digwood, 1995 | 300m, 7 | Peak Charles | ||
21 | ★★★ The Boers of Deception
Groove/crack round the corner from Rapid Fire. FA: M. Haffner & M. Moore, 1991 | Peak Charles | |||
12 | ★ Left Edge
Starts up the left side of Spartacus Flake.
Belay (DBB) from top of flake. FA: R. MacArthur & R. Master | 40m | Peak Charles | ||
16 R | ★★ Kwelaman
1
15
30m
2
15
25m
3
16
25m
4
14
30m
5
13
40m
6
15 R
45m
7
8
55m
A good direct and sustained route. Starting as for Homeward Bound, but climb straight up the ‘black face’. Medium to small gear, include extra micro friends and slings. This trad route was sadly retro-bolted in early 2000s with fixed abseil anchors (rings) at the ends of its pitches 1-4, which changes the pitch descriptions somewhat as well. Do not attempt to climb to the 5th bolted belay: there is no gear in between 4th and 5th belays and this is not where the original climb goes anyway.
FA: D. Egeland & P. Carter, 1998 | 250m, 7 | Peak Charles | ||
25 | ★★★ Egyptian Shadow
From the base of the large scoop feature in the middle of the wall flow through a series of laybacking and stemming. Continue up the obvious feature through a technical boulder problem immediately followed by some powerful moves and big throws. Mantle to a good rest before the thought provoking sequence to the anchors. FA: jimmi stafford, 23 Sep 2021 | 15m, 6 | Peak Charles | ||
14 | Slime
The climb is located on the left corner of the Central Gully behind the Block and follows the gently sloping corner to emerge on the wall above to the right. The wall provides the crux. FA: P. McKenzie & R. McArthur | 20m | Peak Charles | ||
22 | ★★★ Santa Claus
1
17
20m
2
22
20m
Climb corner crack on right side of obvious flake in centre of the wall. Trad belay from the lower section on top of the flake. Difficult to safely rap off unless you climb higher to reach the first two hangers on 2nd pitch.
FA: B. Dowrick & J. Kerr, 1992 FA: M. Haffner, 1997 | 40m, 2, 4 | Peak Charles | ||
14 | ★ Twilight Steal
The open corner 15 metres right of Girls Can’t Spit.
FA: B. Newell & B. Wills, 1994 | 100m, 3 | Peak Charles | ||
25 | ★★★ Quartz Wars
First line on far left of amphitheatre right side. Steep technical climbing off the ground, past 3 bolts, leads to jug hauling to the break. Kiss the guano to an airy clip, pull onto the roof past another 3 bolts to the anchor. Epic finish. 7 bolts to dbb. FA: jimmi stafford, 5 Apr 2019 | 17m, 7 | Peak Charles | ||
23 | ★★ The Last Train to Natimuk
| 20m, 3 | Peak Charles | ||
18 | ★★ The Birthday Party
FA: B. Dowrick & J. Kerr, 1994 | 90m, 2 | Peak Charles | ||
25 | ★★ French Connections
Starting on the left side of the dominant scoop feature in the middle of the wall. Follow the ledge/flake system with series of laybacks, mid-sized jugs and crimps to the top of the flake. Use the brake to traverse back left to the 5th bolt where your can rest to get ready for the final 10m delicate crimp fest (crux), finishing on a couple of grades easier, but still spicey, slab. FA: Jiri Stastny, 24 Sep 2021 | 29m, 11 | Peak Charles | ||
23 | ★★★ Succubus
1
23
15m
2
18
40m
3
21
10m
4
18
50m
Start at the base of Californication / Infinite Pursuit gully.
FA: M. Moore & M. Haffner, 1992 | 120m, 4 | Peak Charles | ||
23 | ★★★ Double Scorpion
Superb climbing through the small 3D scoops at the beginning, past a good rest in the men-sized scoop and then over (1st crux) and via the ledge system to a mental finish (2nd crux) at the massive scoop below the anchor. FA: Jiri Stastny, 3 Apr 2021 | 15m, 6 | Peak Charles | ||
17 | ★★ The Missing Link
1
16
50m
2
17
20m
3
15
50m
Belay at the base of the Constipation Corner crack (not at the base of the mossy slab below).
FA: R. Weiter & D. Pantic, 2004 | 120m, 3 | Peak Charles | ||
13 | Girls Can’t Spit
1
13
35m
2
12
40m
3
6
20m
Start to the right of Garp.
FA: D. Shaw & C. Swain, 1993 | 95m, 3 | Peak Charles | ||
19 | Infinite Pursuit
1
17
30m
2
19
30m
3
15
40m
4
17
40m
Start by climbing the right trending diagonal crack system just right of some white streaky rock to the right of Californication.
FA: M. Moore & M. Haffner, 1990 | 140m, 4 | Peak Charles | ||
22 | Thief of Youth
Climbs the hanging corner, damaged bolt has been removed and needs replacing. One piton still remains. FA: M. Haffner, 1989 | 15m | Peak Charles | ||
23 | ★★ Talisman
Fierce steep finger crack 20 metres left of Mogadon. FA: M. Haffner, 1994 | 10m | Peak Charles | ||
13 | ★★ Skyliner
Start from near the cave. Proceed upwards keeping to what might be termed a blunt spine. 4 pitches, approx. 45 metres each. This climb probably shares common ground with Firefight at Baghdad. Easily angled ground. FA: M. Adams & B. Adams, 1995 | 180m | Peak Charles | ||
14 | Coffin
Route up inside of boulders. | 14m | Peak Charles | ||
21 | Beers and Whoring and Lost Wages
Seam in the concave wall behind Beers, Steers and Queers and Trident. Start from the ledge. FA: M. Haffner, T. Deane & J. Fettes, 1996 | Peak Charles | |||
18 | The Missing Link Direct
Same climb as as The Missing Link but in pitch 2 take the L groove. FA: C. Slee, 2010 | Peak Charles | |||
23 | ★★★ Suckerfish
Start up the left trending sickle in middle of face. Clip bolt and struggle up face above to prominent water groove. FA: B. Dowrick, 1993 | 25m, 1 | Peak Charles | ||
23 | Kalashnikov
From the second pitch of Rapid Fire start from the ledge and pull left out of Rapid Fire and layback and jam the exotic finger flake crack. FA: M. Haffner & T. Holm, 1996 | 10m | Peak Charles | ||
11 | Fat Guy Goes Nutzoid
Follows obvious cracks at back of gully. Allows access to all sorts of interesting things. FA: P. Cleary, 1993 | 30m | Peak Charles | ||
13 | Pegleg
From right of The Wheelchair Access past nose, follow crack and right onto arete and then onto top. FA: P. Cleary & B. Dowrick, 1994 | 18m | Peak Charles | ||
21 | ★★ Bad Seed
Prominent short corner 10 metres right of Talisman. FA: M. Haffner, 1995 | 15m | Peak Charles | ||
16 R | ★★ Maternal Instinct
Climbs the centre of the face just right of User Frenzy and directly to the same belay. FA: B. Dowrick, M. Haffner & J. Stratford, 1993 | 25m | Peak Charles | ||
23 | ★★ Thin Blue Line
The sensuous sinuous short crackline right of One Crowded Hour. FA: M. Moore & M. Haffner, 1991 | 10m | Peak Charles | ||
20 | Get Thee to a Brewery
Start as for Trident, traverse 3 metres left and then up headwall. 3 bolts, RP5 and 1.5 friend. FA: M. Haffner, P. Weber & T. Holm, 1996 | 15m, 3 | Peak Charles | ||
23 | ★★ Holiday in Kambalda
Follow the bolts up the northern face of the large orange block. FA: B. Dowrick, 1993 | 15m, 3 | Peak Charles | ||
17 | Break Out
At the right hand end a black streak comes out of the base of a right trending crack. Climb this. FA: G. Murray & R. Murray, 1993 | 15m | Peak Charles | ||
21 | Rapid Fire
1
12
2
21
FA: M. Haffner & M. Moore, 1991 | 20m, 2 | Peak Charles | ||
18 | Onion
1
18
14m
2
14
24m
3
13
24m
4
11
25m
The long onion shaped chimney at the back of Onion Gully.
FA: S. McKie, D. Shaw, C. Swain & A. Garvin, 1994 | 87m, 4 | Peak Charles | ||
23 | ★★ Endless Quest
1
23
25m
2
16
45m
3
15
45m
4
17
40m
5
21
40m
A powerful expedition and no doubt one of the best trad routes at the grade in WA. The large north facing overlap system which can be clearly seen from the rock pools above the Old Campsite Crag.
FA: M. Haffner & M. Moore, 1990 | 200m, 6 | Peak Charles | ||
15 | Bop Till you Drop
At the far end of Cripple Slab is the obvious crack seen from the tourist track (invisible from below). FA: C. Swain & D Shaw, 1995 | 25m | Peak Charles | ||
11 | Mogadon
The obvious chimney 50 metres to the left of Central Gully. There is a prominent roof just to the left of this chimney.
FA: R. Master & R. Master Jnr | 90m, 2 | Peak Charles | ||
21 | Born to Lose
A tough start, the leftward trending overlap crack at right side of triangular face just right of Maternal Instinct. Pull one roof of overlap after about 10 metres and follow crack and slabs to User Frenzy Belay. To descend continue up short corner and head right and up to escape into Karakoram Gully. FA: B. Dowrick & M. Haffner, 1993 | 25m | Peak Charles | ||
20 | Psycho Surrender
Jam crack 2m right of Thin Blue Line. FA: M. Haffner & M. Moore, 1991 | 15m | Peak Charles | ||
22 | Trident
3 metres left of Meltdown. 3 bolts and friend 1 and 1.5 in break. FA: M. Haffner, 1996 | 15m, 3 | Peak Charles | ||
21 | ★★ White Noise
The climb goes through the lower gully cliff and continues up the upper cliffs.
FA: M. Moore & P. Robbins, 1991 | 210m, 3 | Peak Charles | ||
19 | ★★ Eau Fuque
Near the south end of the ledge above Karakoram Gully is a face with a Y shaped crack on its right and a left leaning crack to the left. Pleasant face climbing on left, climbing past horizontal break and short thin vertical crack, then upwards. FA: B. Dowrick & J. Kerr, 1993 | 15m | Peak Charles | ||
18 | Loopy
1
18
14m
2
18
43m
3
15
5m
4
16
32m
FA: S. McKie & A. Garvin, 1994 | 94m, 4 | Peak Charles | ||
16 | ★★ Where the Fuck is Tuktoyuktuk
The first shallow corner 30 metres right of Endless Quest. Up this corner and step left and then the wall above. From the top of the climb escape off to the right. FA: B. Dowrick, 1993 | 35m | Peak Charles | ||
22 R | Brucellosis
Face, overlap and slab left of New Cleary Action. FA: M. Haffner, 1995 | 10m | Peak Charles | ||
12 | She Waits Alone
FA: C. Mason, 1999 | 200m, 6 | Peak Charles | ||
22 | ★★ Terminal Psychosis
The corner 3m right of Psycho Surrender. Start up this, move left at the overhang, surmount this and move right to finish. FA: M. Moore & M. Haffner, 1992 | 15m | Peak Charles | ||
25 | ★★ Meltdown
Sports route 30 metres right of Voluptuous. FA: C. Jones, 1995 | 20m, 4 | Peak Charles | ||
13 | A Walk In The Park
The longest climb in WA, it crosses the face R of Central Gully starting at Raindance and finishing above Karakoram Gully below the summit. There is a continuous line of weakness which is followed the whole way.
FA: D.Moyses & M.Adams, 2005 | 500m, 13 | Peak Charles | ||
19 | ★★ Rackless Abandon
The right branch of the Y shaped crack right of Eau Fuque. Start on top of block, follow crack and wall above. A bit of gear comes in handy. FA: B. Dowrick & P. Cleary, 1993 | 15m | Peak Charles | ||
21 | ★★ Left Hand Finish
Where the original finishes right, move left and climb the thin diagonal line in the leaning headwall. FA: M. Haffner & M. Moore, 1992 | 10m | Peak Charles | ||
19 | Shingleback
1
19
15m
2
14
45m
3
45m
Starts to the left of the prominent pockets on the north side of Onion Gully leading to finger sized crack in slab 10 metres up the gully from Left Edge.
FA: J. Macintosh & D. Brereton, 1995 | 110m, 3 | Peak Charles | ||
11 | Trivial
Crack and wall on left side of Arc of Iris. Start on platform and climb left trending crack to base of wall. From here straight up to belay. FA: D. Shaw & S. McKie, 1994 | 18m | Peak Charles | ||
19 | New Cleary Action
FA: B. Dowrick | 10m | Peak Charles | ||
13 | Wodewick
15 metres to the right of Mogadon.
FA: R. Rathbone & P. Harrison | 93m, 3 | Peak Charles | ||
23 | ★★ Field of Mars
Fifty metres up the gully from Neon Wilderness. Steep hard face climbing past bolt to gain corner crack over overlap. FA: M. Haffner & M. Moore, 1991 | 30m | Peak Charles | ||
22 | ★★ Psychotic Reaction
Technical corner continuing to the right from Terminal Psychosis. FA: M. Moore & M. Haffner, 1991 | 10m | Peak Charles | ||
Unknown?
On the lower level of the summit there are two obvious chimneys. The right one is Summit Lust, the left one of unknown name. FA: J. Ansell, P. Nidd & S. Digwood, 1990 | 30m | Peak Charles | |||
23 | ★★ Skins and Heart
1
23
20m
2
14
45m
3
16
50m
4
20
15m
FA: M. Moore & M. Haffner, 1991 | 130m, 4 | Peak Charles | ||
23 | ★★ Top Rope Problem
8 metres right of Rackless Abandon there is a pocket on a steep wall just reachable from the ground. Pull up to this and then up the wall above. | 15m | Peak Charles | ||
21 | ★★ Thank God I’m an Atheist
Layback flake at right hand end of crag. FA: M. Haffner, 1991 | 10m | Peak Charles | ||
20 | ★★ Loves Comes in Hot Spurts
A lonely but brilliant pitch. Start 3m right of Spartacus. Follow the diagonal crack line. Where this peters out move slightly left and up for 5m, then back right and make for the left hand end of the crack system. FA: M. Moore & M. Haffner, 1990 | 45m | Peak Charles | ||
13 | Arc of Iris
The arch-like roof about 70 metres right of Endless Quest. Start on the platform to the left. Climb to base of the overhang up slab. Reach over lip for holds on upper face. Belay in front of tiny cave. FA: D. Shaw & S. McKie, 1994 | 18m | Peak Charles | ||
23 | Jungle Jim
FA: B. Dowrick | 10m | Peak Charles | ||
22 | ★★ Controlled Burning
Diagonal crack 10 metres north of tourist ridge to summit. Climb diagonal crack and then finish up left cleft. FA: M. Haffner, 1995 | 25m | Peak Charles | ||
22 | ★★ Polished to Perfection
Starts on right wall of central gully 15 metres up from rappel station (gain access from Summit Terraces or gully below). Take med.-large cams and wires.
FA: A. Corbe & D. Brereton (alts), 1995 | 110m | Peak Charles | ||
23 | Shaka Zulu
The left leaning flake up the front of the buttress that divides Karakoram Gully. Step up easily right onto block, then undercling the line left and around the bulge and beyond. FA: K. Lindorff, C. Jones & M. Haffner, 1995 | 45m | Peak Charles | ||
24 | ★★ Gold Top
FA: A. Schellens, 1997 | 15m | Peak Charles | ||
16 | ★★ Ryobi One Kanobi
Follow the left edge of the wall immediately right of Ravishing. Up past 2 fixed hangers and several SLCD placements. FA: J. Macintosh & D. Brereton, 1995 | 25m, 2 | Peak Charles | ||
17 | Reptilian Encounter
Traverses across the main slab to give access to the upper pitches of Californication. Starts 5 metres left of Homeward Bound at base of cracks, below a large block.
FA: S. Digwood & G. Phillips, 1997 | 230m | Peak Charles | ||
26 | ★★★ Poignant Device
On the eastern side of Bath Bluff near its northern end is a large square corner. The left hand wall is smooth and steep and split by two cracks. Take the right hand crack. Traverse left under the roof at the top to the arete and up. Bolt and fixed wire. FA: B. Dowrick, 1994 | 20m, 1 | Peak Charles | ||
18 | Smells Like Dead Fish
Straight up crackline through slight overhang. FA: S. Mansfield, 1996 | 8m | Peak Charles | ||
18 | Once Were Warriors
Very bold climb 6 metres right of Love Comes In Hot Spurts by a prominent black streak.
FA: K. Lindorff, C. Jones & M. Haffner, 1995 | 160m, 4 | Peak Charles | ||
15 | Two Moves
The central apex of the Arc of Iris. Start as for others and climb blankish wall to shelf below overhang, then crank over lip. FA: S. McKie & D. Shaw, 1994 | 18m | Peak Charles | ||
17 | Misdereked
FA: B. Dowrick | 8m | Peak Charles | ||
25 | ★★ Ring of Fire
Overhanging flake just right of Controlled Burning FA: C. Jones, 1995 | 10m, 3 | Peak Charles | ||
16 | The Serpent
1
12
30m
2
16
35m
3
15
40m
When seen from the south side the North Wall of Central Gully is split horizontally by a large snaking crack system (almost an overlap). This system starts level with Guano Roof and rises to the Summit Terraces. An obvious and in some places exposed rising traverse. Start 2 metres left of Bull Frog Alley, scramble up short wall and into gully proper at base of obvious groove/chimney.
FA: D. Moyses & G. Phillips, 1994 | 110m, 3 | Peak Charles | ||
14 | ★★★ Slab and Tickle
Starts 25 metres right of Scorched Earth, from the right end of a 5 metre wide block, below a conspicuous diagonal flake and fixed hanger.
FA: J. McIntosh, 1995 | 60m, 2 | Peak Charles | ||
21 | ★★ Peyote
Past Gold Top to the right, around the corner on the hanging face is Peyote. Start up gully system in corner and step onto face using pockets. Move onto face protected by a cam in first pocket. Head up face past one bolt to finish. FA: M. Haffner & P. Weber, 1997 | 10m | Peak Charles | ||
23 | ★★ Ravishing
Line between Ryobi One Kanobi and Waves and Caves. 1 bolt and natural pro at break. Runout start. Redpoint using draw on first bolt for safety and easy reach. FA: P. Weber & M. Haffner, 1996 | 20m, 1 | Peak Charles | ||
14 | Homeward Bound
At the lowest point of the cliffs 20 metres right of Trout Dentures there is a large block 20 metres up.
FA: M. Smith & M. Rathbone, 1976 | 230m, 7 | Peak Charles | ||
19 R | ★★ The Tenzing Shuffle
Left hand variant to The Hillary Step. At the small rooflet head left and up to and past the “Post Box” (Crux). FA: B. Dowrick, 1993 | 15m | Peak Charles | ||
20 | ★★ Extra Sensory Conception
Further up the ridge and above the Spartacus corner on a prominent orange overhanging wall. The leftward leaning crack in the wall. FA: M. Haffner, 1995 | 20m | Peak Charles | ||
15 | Conquistadors of the Useless
1
15
50m
2
6
40m
3
9
20m
4
15
50m
5
2
100m
Approximately 100 metres right of Endless Quest is a large black slab. At the extreme right of this are two gullies approximately 10 metres apart. Up the middle of the arete which separates these gullies is a curving scimitar shaped crack line. Start at the base of this.
FA: G. Phillips & D. Moyses, 1994 | 260m, 5 | Peak Charles | ||
21 | Yes, We Haffner Bananas
FA: B. Dowrick | 8m | Peak Charles | ||
21 | ★★ Piranha Charmer
50 metres down slope from Controlled Burning is a small wall and on the left side of the arete is a cairn. From it clip the bolt, then proceed up face and right into corner. FA: M. Haffner & T. Deane, 1996 | 10m, 1 | Peak Charles | ||
15 | Bullfrog Alley
1
15
30m
2
14
35m
3
15
50m
A few metres left of Juluka the Central Gully narrows and is blocked by a short wall (2nd abseil pitch of Central Gully Abseil route). Bullfrog Alley takes the thin crack up the arete immediately above this.
FA: G. Phillips & D. Moyses, 1994 | 120m, 3 | Peak Charles |