Routes as trad in Tomaree Head

Pitches of 23 (Trad), 26 (Sport), 24 (Trad).

P1 (23) Brilliant technical trad climbing, a fun warm up.

P2 (26) Be careful getting to 1st clip (easier for the tall)move up left side of FH then step gingerly across right to sloping ramp. Follow a line of fixed hangers up a sustained wall of technical climbing to get to the pedestal belay (13 draws).

P3 (24) Hard start with potential to fall onto belay as the 1st bolt is quite high up, place a long sling when rapping in. Once going, it features tenuous bridging, followed by quality crack climbing in a suburb position.

Its helpful to rap in on a long static (100+m), makes for a quick escape if required

The thin steep crack 2m right of Crystal Ships. Small cams essential.

The obvious face with the 2 ring bolts. Nice thin moves lead the way up this classic face. Continue out right under the small roof the cut back across left to top out.

Middle of right side ledge. Bouldery moves off the ground to get past past 2 FHs and up to undercling and a good cam. Move out left and up using side of block to get onto slab. Small cams and little wires protect moves to large break. At break traverse slightly left to get slopey ramp with a fixed hanger that has tricky moves overcoming bulge. Step right to finish up thin seam protected with small RP’s. Belay up and left on RB anchors. Stella Line!

Right hand finish , after bolt in corner head R into EWWBL

The open book corner that leads to a roof at 8 m. Step left into Animals route and finish as for that climb

Stunning thin crack just round the corner from technocrat . Easy start to little block with good gear. Tricky moves to get to midway edges and crux. Good footwork and arete on the left will get you up to the dihedral roof. It’s not easy to get around the roof and stand up. From here continue to follow thin crack and good gear until it ends. Step across right using a good pocket and head up to a sloping ledge. New RB lower offs have been added.

The wall just left of the thin seem, bridge up wall moving left on slopes to clip bolt, then up through a small roof and another bolt.

Up prow passing bolt to HWL.

Direct to the black arete. Committing moves off the ledge.

Start 2m left of the "Semi Retirement" corner. Unprotected boulder start gets you on top of block. Nice flakes past 2 carrots to undercling and a vertical crack. Fingerlock seam to gain good hold and large side pull. Move upward to a square cut block and mantle onto it. Balancey moves to get onto slopey ramp and some small wires. Head slightly left with some fridge hugging and subtle footwork to gain double ringbolt loweroffs. DRB Don't use crack on right (Semi Retirement)

Start 3m left of the abseil anchor on the halfway ledge. Up the crack the step out left and onto arete past 2 bolts, around arete past another bolt and finish as for "Fatal Attraction".

From halfway ledge up overhanging handcrack corner to finger crack to horizontal break. Up slab past finger sized gear and 3 rbs.

Climb 2m right of Buccaneer, the corner and slab leading up to the roof, then up jam crack to ledge to finish.

Start 5m right of "Drag On", up wall past two brackets, moving out right to another bracket then up head wall to top out.

Thin seam and arête at left end of wall. Finish up and right

Bold direct finish to the Avenger. Climb the final slab directly, past a single bolt.

Climb Guardian Angel for about 5m and traverse left before reaching the first bolt via 2 slots to a very small triangular ledge, then up arete and crack.

Old description: "Climb Gardian Angel for about 6m to a rusty piton. The traverse out left to the arete...past a small slot. Climb the sensational crack system and arete to top."

Bridge the classic corner left of sharks fin. Up past 3 bolts then swing right to sharks fin belay.

The arête R of animals route. Up past good #2 cam and several essential RPs to first hex bolt. Up to second bolt then turn roof to the right. Up to anchor RBs.

From start, climb up to gain feature with a right hand layaway to get first pieces in. Nice footwork gains block up and left and more small but good gear. Balance up to get a good stance. Reach up to get flare and a cam, then tricky moves guard little rooflet. Final moves up groove to get to ledge, up and right to find double U bolt belay/loweroff. Excellent climbing on small gear, recommended

This route has 2 pitches. P1 Climb easy ground carefully up block with minimal gear. On ledge their is a good wire placement, use a 600mm sling for drag. Up and left is good pocket for small cam/s, but route heads straight up on good edges, veering slightly right to foot ledge. Mantle onto ledge where good placements can be found. Thin seem on the slabbish wall heads straight up with small features, but there are plenty of placements. Interesting move off foot ledge to get half way up the seam, small feet and a few tricky moves to gain small pocket up and right. A slopey ramp guards the exit.

P2 Open book corner with some great movements following corner. Good gear, but balancy pressing/stemming moves to get to the fixed hanger 3/4 up the wall. Lean out left where two good pockets can be found and a 1 Camelot placement. Keep on left wall to get to big break and a 3 Camelot placement. Step onto big block to finish next to Squinting Albino Pasty Cook.

Pitch 1 is the better pitch.

One of the best trad lines there is.

Same start as for Dopey Mick but go straight up through overlaps to roof and then on to top. Good wire in shallow crack just over roof protects crux. Stay to the right of Dopey Mick up the blunt arete with good pods for gear. Can belay off DBB to left.

Easy blocks to base of hanging chimney. Hard moves to get into groove, then up to HWL.

Start as for Fin crack but head right through overlaps. At second overlap head straight up past carrot. Needs anchor.

Climb the corner/pillar system just left of the Fat Head arete. 3 pitchs but can be done as 2. Thin corner for the 1st pitch then some great laybacking on the 2nd pitch. Abseil down slab to get hex bolt belay at top of wall, then rap off 70m to belay.

The face climb, right of arête. Easy start up to large hueco with a good cam placement. Sidepull hueco to reach out to thin crack for wire placement, on the right, then use small flake above and good footwork to get to big pocket. A good wire can be placed here, but it’s quite tricky as your hand is in the pocket. You can gingerly reach up to a good 0.4 Camelot, in the crack up from pocket to protect crux move. If you are not confident in your placements, do not go higher as there is ground fall potential with the crux move up and right from pocket Delicate moves gain good crack above and a 1 Camelot placement. Continue straight up following crack and good gear, until you come to a small ledge, head up & left to lower offs. Engaging climbing, good moves with good gear, but committing move at the pocket.

Starts in small corner, wires protect moves up to small hand ledge. Step across left and up to gain good undercling and gear. Committing move up and right towards good finger crack and a 1 Camelot placement. Bridge up into mini alcove and a better stance. Natural Belay from ledge above, tough warmup or a nice 2nd climb. Traverse carefully back around to the decent gully.

A direct start is possible, but the line starts in alcove as for WTTCI, but at the roof go right and then carefully up groove.

Start as for WWJ in alcove and up to roof. At roof bridge and step left onto prow and hanging V groove.

Up slab into corner just left of prow of storm front. Into groove and top out via flake to HWL.

Start 2 m right of left end of ledge and climb over blocks to gain very thin crack that needs numerous #1 RPs. DBB

Starts on the next buttress R of WWJ direct. Up face and arête, stepping left into alcove and up into small scoop. Technical face moves get you to the top though little gear after half way.

Thin seam on the right of the black slab. Small RPs provide protection before a bold finish following the corner/overlap to the right.

Up face between 2 easy corner routes past 1 bolt and then onto slab with crack. Move right to shared anchors as for Drag ON. Given 23 in old guide, but quite escapable and good holds all within reach

Up shallow corner and bottom of decent. small wires and soime bold moves to get some good gear, then finish along the diagonal crack to the alliance belay.

Follow corner to small roof then go left following obvious flake, up past horizontal (#3 or #4 cam), step slightly left and follow seam to top. Good pro. Trad anchor needed for belay.

The corner with ground level sentry box left of the normal start of Pollyfilla. Join that route at half height to finish on HWL

The right most thin crack into v groove. Really a boulder problem with a bad landing

The centre prominent crack with sloping holds

Traverse in from the right as for Dopey Mick but head to shallow corner, up to ledges and then scoops to slopey top out. The route directly below the rap anchors so easy to top rope. A very large block came out in the storms of 2016, making this route a bit more sustained, and perhaps destroying the direct start option.

Up corner and ledge just right of Formality, then straight up wall to HWL. This is incorrectly shown as MM in the local guide.

(pitch 2) - exit route

The second pitch of Houdini below. Up the crack on the left hand wall to nice finish on small slab.

2m right of Penguin parade (oceanward), up thin seam and past pod to slab moves. May feel harder on lead

Slab climb past the two hex bolts on the slab, with 2 more bolts on the foot wall before the slab. Finishes at the main DBB anchors. Mixed climbing with RPs through the cruxes. Note- original name unknown.

Follow corner for 10m then follow hand crack to top.

Start as for Dr Destructo but head straight up chiney to roof. Step left and finish as for PATGOD. Bolts for abseil descent above BOTT, another 3m through vegetation. Abseil over this climb.

Traverse under small roof to shallow V groove. Place some runners in the horizontal then up and slightly right into groove and follow this to ledge. Step left to belay off DBB.

The thin seam 2m right of Trade Winds. Wires and small cams up seam then past 2 RB and trend left to top of TW pitch 1

Move 1m left of twin cracks to FH and up slab past 2 more FH to break. Step up past #3 and #2 cam to huecos and one more FH, DBB above. Wires and small cams also needed.

Start 1m right of PP and go straight up towards wide V chimney. Adequate gear.

The twin cracks in the middle of the wall trending R at top to exit to top of P1 of Trade winds

Instead of traversing left at half height continue straight up on massive pocket towards block at cliff top

Accessible at low tide in calm seas. Come around rock rib a few metres above sea level and drop down onto raised boulder to belay. Up first crack traversing left to offwidth at half height then up into tight chimney. Belay just below top, and scramble off right

The first climb right of the descent gully, facing cliff.

Easy escape route up the corner, tough move near top with a pack on.

Up a right facing series of corners and large ledges. Not a good beginners lead due to ledge fall potential.

This route is still a project. Keep off