Routes in Plunkett Conservation Park

The insane, thin, finger crack that splits the whole cave in half, straight down the middle. Sit start the start of the crack at the very back of the cave and figure out the insanity. Very possible

And on the sixth day Bo created this line. Start in a casual laying down position with hands on the left and right crimp rails. do not start matched on the left crimp as it takes a grade or two off. bring plenty of skin

start sitting down with your right hand in pocket and left on the little crimp on the outside left of the pocket. blast up leftwards, slopey madness, fantastic.

Corey Batten

Start as for dreadnaught 2 hands in the undercling with feet on the rock below and then dyno straight out to the big jug then mantle from it and finish as for dreadnaught.

Seems like you’d have to hit it with both hands at once to hold it. BRING MATS AND SPOTTERS *is a contrived route

super hard route made harder by the height, start on crimps just over lip of rooflet, hard move moving onto headwall, followed by some serious crimping.

Super crimper! Start right hand and heel on the sandy flake and left hand on the good crimp. Punch your way up through some bad crimps and spring into a glory jug to finish. Please don’t brush the sandy right start self to much it needs to be sealed. it’s endlessly sandy and with out it the problem may be impossible. Update: An attempt has been made to preserve the flake, as it was crumbling a little more with every attempt.

Corey Batten

rubbish rock down low. Be gentle with the start hold, if it breaks the climb will be totally different. hard to grade this one feels easy sometimes, absolutely impossible other times.

Note: the FA was done doing the final dead point with feet up on starting hand holds (not from the bottom band of rock on the ground) it may or may not be possible from the low feet and may or may not change the grade.

Start on Made to Stray but instead of going straight up bust out left along the obvious crimp rails, head up once the crimps start turning slopey, finishing up on the big round hold over the lip. Keep your feet OFF the cave floor and boulder to the left. Feet above vegetation line. Starting on Pray to Stay is an unsent pumpers dream line

Beta: https://youtu.be/IGYyt1fR_A4

Start on the obvious juggy holds, one move straight up before heading out right into mono territory. very committing line with less than perfect landing bring a couple of pads.

Corey Batten

Start on the bulge with right hand finger lock thing, The big attached lower rock(s) are in.

F is for friends who do stuff together U is for you and me N is for anywhere and anytime at all Down here in the deep blue sea

Start left hand on the same hold as Land Of Shadow and Right hand on the Lower of the two right hand side pulls. One FU move to glory.

Start Matched on the crimpy flat hold on the bottom left of the boulder near the detached rock (watch your head) stay along the arete and finish on the top jug rail before mantleing over.

There may be another line possible that mantles earlier. but for Hammer Head climb all the out right.

Beta for clarity: https://youtu.be/BNXb8dtM5IQ

Start on the left inside rail as for Easily Amoose'd and staying on the outside rails join into I Oink, Therefore I Ham

start two hand in jugga. excellent problem with a committing finishing move

The straight up the guts steepest line on the boulder, start on the slab and head straight up through the obvious crimp rails.

Probably the only possible line on the boulder. start in the big undercling and jump out right to arete, cruxy mantle

Stand start balancing on big footer left side. A hard series of crimpy and technical slabbing up the bomber orange wall finishing on the juggy mid way break. Don’t use your feet properly and say goodbye. It is to go with out saying all holds on the V4 right and the easy crack left are out.

Same sit start as I.O.T.I.H , lurching out of the cave on the right side. At the contrived lip encounter, traverse hard left along the whole lip of the cave on slopes and jugs to finish up the far left side mantling out. Watch the terrifying fall on the cut down tree stump.

Start in the deep back left on crimp rail and join on the second hold of made to stray

start left hand on arete with left toe hook, trend rightwards up through jug. tricky mantle

Start matched in obvious crack on left side of the boulder, bust straight up to top out on jugs

Note - There is a low flake to the right that could be used as a start, but it doesn’t add to the difficulty or aesthetic of the line, and could easily rip off with too much use

Sit start with hands on the lowest holds either side of arete and feet pressed on block underneath. Stay on arete line for glory.

Stand start goes at about V2

So low to the ground that you can't use a mat to begin. start hands crossed (left in the pocket and right on the sloper)

start on the two crimps at the top of the shelf, dyno backwards to the lip make sure you hit the right good hold and the left bad hold around the corner, it is a blind left hand grab from the crimps, then hard mantle to finish

https://www.instagram.com/p/C8IxfaryaZb/?next=%2F

hands start as for the trench feet however start up in the black part of the dish just lower then the hands. once you do the big move to the lip travers on slopers and crimps, till you get all the way right and mantle out right on slopers and good right hand hold! don't use the rock right of the crack keep to the trench boulder!

Stand start on the crimpy flake and blast straight up making your way to the crimp rail about halfway up. Staying about 1.5m left to the hueco gain a near vertical crimp rail that flattens out on your way to the top.

Same as Oink, at the lip encounter, move lookers right up the flake and out. Grade needs confirming- could be a 7.

Best line in the cave. Sit start middle back of cave on big undercling flake. Big move followed by tension induced climbing to a contrived lip escape. Gain the lip and move left and then straight up the middle of the face out.

A yesteryears classic. Sit start towards the centre back of cave with long grey undercling rail. Very cool sequence gains the small right trending corner, tough mantle out

Start on the leftish side of the boulder in the obvious break/rail and blast straight up to your home planet.

Start two hands in the obvious chum bucket hold, blast out left and up through the plankton

Stand start on the ledge both hands on undercling, big reach or big span jump to the lip of the boulder, gain very good jugs and top out straight up! Warning! Do not grab the x ticked hold just above the lip, it sounds hollow and will definitely break, be mindful when sending

Start on the orange block, bring your friends for support but mostly for their mats.

Start at arete, on obvious big jug side pull. up arete and top out.

Straight up through cuboid feature.

Same start as 'out on bail' head up and traverse through the centre of 'the vault' to link up and finish at 'criminals ladder'

Left side of the cave, punching out

Start on rail inside left side of the cave and bust out to top of “Made to Stray”.

Harder than it looks. Stick to the scoop/arête on the left side of the boulder.

starting on the right of The Mothership in the same break/rail jump or something idk

Start on the fairly solid flake punching up through crimps. You may lose some, none, or all your feet. the lower part of the rock is pretty soft and sandy.

right hand on crimp and left hand using the scoop. Right foot can start on the right bulge. Bust directly up over the lip.

Kinda whack, maybe reach dependant, maybe not. Feels impossible until it doesn't. Sit start with right hand on the huge flake and left hand on the flatish rail left of the flake

start low on the far right side pull

climb across to the left then up before going slightly to the right and topping out at the highest point.

Stand start on very cool LH pocket and RH slopper. Unlock the puzzle up the seam. Good quality and tall.

Start on the lowest good hold, feet out right, climb up and left to a dead point then to top out

Classic Slabbin! Start right hand on the right ledge just as the orange rock turns to rooflet. Head up leftwards with under-clings and finish on jugs.

Sit Start on huge gaping underclings throw up for crimps, tricky slab-tastic top out

Start any way you can at the two broken flakes stacked on one another. Get to a nice R crimp then pocket jug, and mantle up. Start move would make the climb a classic if it wasn't so chossy... the upper R flake flexes so be careful not to yank it off.

Start standing in back of cave, through undercling, out to big jug, and up.

Start on obvious flake feet on slab, move hands to slopers and head straight up on the left hand side of the green streak

sit start on rock with right hand on ledge under roof, left hand on crimp on face, climb straight up to hueco to top out

Start on lower left arete. Move right and up to crimp rail, gain some high feet and go out for the sloper or the crimps above (if you have the reach). Move to the crimp rail up and left of hueco and mantle top

Stand-start this beautiful arete problem. Mantle at the largest point of the boulder and don't escape right to F.U.C.K

Sit start on two sloping crimps and up to the grassy jug. Immediately traverse left and up from the obvious crimp rail. Bring brushes to assist...

Sit start with left hand under cling and right hand low on arete. Right detached boulder is out.

Small bloc behind Escape velocity. Sit-start right, on two good holds over lip and very high right foot. Traverse the lip for a series of slopey moves to mantle out about 1/2 metre from the far left of the bloc out.

Sit start far right under I.V on LH sloping jug and RH small rail. Move across left, on breaks and jugs, aiming for Spacing out. Finish up this.

Squat start in the break on the big rock, and blast up the crimp line over a sketchy landing. At least two attentive spotters required to catch the fall in the space.

start two hands on the sloping jug then bust out left before heading back right through pockets and crimps straight up the middle

Same obvious Start holds as Dawn Caller but head leftish and punch your way through the pockets, spooky top out.

starting on your select choice of crimps and feet on the right corner of the slabby thingo aim true for the "jug" hold

Crouch start right hand good pinch left hand higher crimp using good feet underneath face. Moving slightly left to establish for powerful moves directly up through odd crimps, slopey break, dish crimps and devil horn jugs to the very pinnacle of the boulder resting above, ascending with highly immoral behaviour.

Spoiler alert Beta video of first ascent for those that want the assistance. Good way to see starting position. https://youtu.be/I0RGlU686WA

Stand start with slopey holds and move up.

Starting on the leftish side of the flake, fun for everyone.

Sit start left hand on the shallow pocket/crimp and right hand low on the big rail. don't mantle to early for your own safety and style points. mantle on the horn in the corner. the rock down low is crap so just be careful with your feet.

Sit start in the Layback and work your way up to the mantle

Start sit started 3ms right of the barbed wire fence on good crimps. Start up to the small horizontal and fire to the lip. Quality

Worth doing. Start sit started RH on side pull flake and left on either a crimp or pinch. Pull on (crux) ascend the black face.

Start hands matched on the rail, feed find a good heal hook near hands, bust out left to good edge and travers left along lip, keeping feet above the seem of the rock till you get to the white hold and bust up with a tricky mantle straight up to finish

Standing at the base of the slab left hand good edge hop up right hand good edge to start. Ascend slab on good holds to roof. Find courage as you establish a high right heel-hook then mantle over lip. Very exposed top out.

Sit start on obvious jugs in the scoop and climb straight up

Stand start left hand side pull right hand slopey edge, climbs straight up

Sit start as for free Cashews, traversing along the whole way of the boulder till you reach the end and cant continue. nice mantle finish.

start right heel on the sloppers, hands on to crips. travers left along the front of the boulder on sloppy crips, till you get to the corner, keep traversing till you get one hand on the amazing pinch on the end of the boulder then mantle up. trying not to dab on the rock under the lip

Stand start on the right side of the lip of the cave. Moving up and left for the same mantle finish as MTS.

The easier, less scary and way less cool variant

Start right hand side as for pussy direct, but head left along the lip and mantle through the middle.

Start on Sputnik, blasting LH into the first crimp, but then cut right for a big move to a bucket. Trickey mid section gains an easy top out.

Crimp line on the right of the boulder. It's punchy.

Could be harder than v3, stick just right of seam

Start on the huge obvious flake on the left side of the boulder

Stand stand start hugging the arete, smeary awkward feet to start before slapping your way to glory

Start on crimps with left foot jammed in the crack. Deadpoint to the lip and mantle directly out.

Stand start, up on crimps and slopers to top

Sit start, both hands on left side of crack, up to top. Both boulders are in for feet

Left to right traverse starting on AAA and finishing on CD

Classic photo shoot line found on the tier above OP and GOE. This line is not recommended without a very clear head and composure. Start stand start bridging between the 70 degree wall and the other boulder right. A few long moves to a hero heel hook on the lip. This is a no fall zone boulder as a fall would be death.

Middle line starts in a sit start. Straight up over the steep roof to great grips and a cool punchy move.

Link up the wall with some good ol Squirmin’. Sit start A.P and move right across on an assortment of crimps to finish up R.F.R, with the very nice slab finish. Worth doing

start in the centre of the wall on the lowest part on the black hand holds feed off the ground super bunched, hold body tension and reach out hand to gain the edge of the lip, mantle straight up

Bear hug start on bottom bulge good crimps. Up over bulge, veer right first then straight up.

Stand Start left hand low in pebbly dish face side of arete right hand high in pockety edge right side of arete. Boulder to the right is out. Climb straight up.

Crouch start LH side pull slopey pocket RH on obvious jug, decent moves on jugs veering right then back left to mantle avoiding vegetation.

Spoiler alert. Beta video link https://youtu.be/GGp3aZ91lic

Start on low right, sharp jug and left on crimp pocket with a high right heel/ heel-toe cam. Use the right jug or go straight up for the sloper, than into horizontal crack. Head up using the right vertical crimp rail and crimps on left, mantle top

Stand start on obvious holds climb up and right to join onto 'out on bail'

Sit start on sloppers and good right heel traversing along the boulder till you reach the half way point, nice crip ladder to finish off the climb and mantle out.

Sit start low right end of the wall, foot on the stub underneath start hold. Trend up and left using any holds including lip. Reach the zenith just before the mid crack feature of the wall and top out here.

Sit start on the pocket and high LH crimp. committing top