Routes as boulder in North

A good traverse along the front of the boulder that could be continued all the way around the boulder.

Walk up the water falls from the bridge. At the 3rd rock pool is an overhanging shaded block. The central line is it.

"The Inner Circle" classic problem with lovely technical moves. Up the left leaning vague arête. This is normally done from a sit start, although the stand is no easier.

Standing start, moving up the steep face on scoopy rock. Nice crisp holds, finishing up the via the pocket. A true classic.

Face with undercut start 2m L of "The Incred-eye-ball mantle". Start below vague scoop with RH on tiny positive 'ear' and up on thin holds.

No pro. Starts on the front of the pinnacle, about 0.5m L of the R arête. A bouldery low section to a cruisy slab top out.

This is one of the original lines put up by Zimmerman. Original line used just the right layback seam, but would effectively make it an eliminate. the first move to the high layback puts you body in a position to use a compression move off of Reverie, then climbing both seams to the blank section. The Crux is from here to the top as originally described, But is considerably easier than the original grade of V9. Regardless, this is of equal quality to Reverie and is a must do. (Original description = Just to the R of "Highball #1" is a V9, with the crux at the top (start at the break and go up via lay offs to a thin section).)

A V8 to the R of "American Invasion #1", a sit start off the pockets into the orange scoop.

About 25m further off the beach from "American Invasion #2" is a high cracked arête, and has a sloping slab to land on.

The R-hand side of the smooth slab facing the ocean.

The middle of the smooth slab. Finger tip pockets to a technical dyno.

The nice line up the L-hand side.

The obvious rising traverse line from L to R on the next side around. Start as far left as possible and slap along right on very open-grip holds. Finish by topping out on the boulder. Quite a bit harder when done barefoot.

Starts 0.5m right of the start of SH at the two-handed undercling. Pull onto wall, slap up and left to hold, crimp, then a balancy high step and pull up to jugs and top of boulder.

The thin, orange diagonal with a boulder to fall on.

Sitstart on pockets and up. Topout straight up or pike L - "A Little Fervour VF".

The boulder behind you when you're facing Slap Happy has a mono problem and a dyno from bottom jugs to the top.

Short climbers start on shitty holds where as, taller climbers can skip the start and reach the jug to a mantle.

This climb will leave you with a good feeling afterwards. Nice jugy hold & laybacks up this flake to a slightly technical foot rockover.

Balancy barn door problem with a great juggy pinch. A classic. See also "Spider Bite Sit Start".

On the second block just to the right. Hard moves up this small pillar. See also "The Fridge Sit Start", for a better problem.

Sit-start for "The Fridge”.

Starts between the block and a small tree. Up off good sidepull and a few other small features. Reachy.

A great high problem, starting off an obvious high handhold. Starting off with a few hard moves which lead to easy climbing.

A few hard moves to a pleasant juggy top section.

Starts at featured vague arete. Excellent starting moves up into a high finish.

Easy access to the top of the boulder. Start off the jugs below the sloping ramp, pull on, then follow the ramp up to a balancy final move.

Up the nice flake line on the left-hand end of the wall.

Up following the line of incut flakes.

Up just right of the tree.

Up the vague arete with some nice balancy moves. Starts directly below the arete.

Steep sit start off obvious diagonal edge, moving left to some cool slopes and up.

Crouched start on the short arete.

Left of "Little Kid's Mantle".

Just left of The Lunge (when walking to The Cow Paddock). Up and left from horizontal holds to jugs and straight up.

Starts 1m left of "Bum Crack". Up from cluster of small edges to slopey pinch and a hard mantle.

A balancy crack and face climbing to a slope at the top with a pleasant top out. Classic. See Bum Crack Sit-start for a slightly harder problem.

Same as "Bum Crack" but with the obvious sit start.

Crank through steep wall from slopes on lip. Starts off the flake embedded in the ground. Alternatively start as "Pull Hard Variant 1"[1993001625], "Pull Hard Variant 2"[1993001625], or "Pull Hard Variant 3"[1993001736].

The right-hand arête of "The Elevator" wall.

Fun, balancy moves up this tiny wall, starting off the obvious sidepull. Can be done using various eliminates as well as one handed, and has been done as a classic hands free problem!

Up on nice flakes. Start in the middle of the wall, moving right to the top. This is the descent route for the boulder and it is a little tricky.

Sustained slab just right of the steep blank section. Step onto slab from boulders. Bad landing and scary.

Fine slab with a reachy move at the top. Starts in the middle/right of the wall and up via a good right-hand sidepull to a cluster of good edges.

Starting 2m right of "The Divorce". A steep highball face with good edges and sidepulls, just left of the obvious flake, with the crux at the top. Standing start off the pair of chunky edges. A super classic!

Up the obvious easiest slab. Can be down-climbed

Sit start at left-hand end of tiny bulge, moving Right and topping out at highest point.

Featured rib of holds up the slab. Footwork intensive.

Sit start on the rocking boulder, then a single move dyno to the top.

Short, steep sit start below the obvious flake and up. Sharp.

A short sit start with a tricky first move and actually easier for shorter people.

Mantle onto short slab using the one obvious good hold. Climb it at 5 O'clock and find out why.

Start sitting on the block below the short face and slab. Start 1.5m left of the tree, hanging off the left-hand arete and small crimp on the face. Up to hold on slab and finish moving up and left.

Starts just right of the tree (tree no longer exists) and up on slopey holds with a crux slap for the juggy flake.

Straight up the dimpled face starting off sidepull and slopey pinches.

Up the obvious flake arête. Standing start off small blocks, step up to small underclings then follow the flake right. A good problem.

Middle of the blank looking face below the hanging flake. Starts crouched off the obvious low handrail, up to flake.

Left-hand variant of "Creaking Limbs", starting just to the left on better footholds, finishing via a great jug. Balancy goodness.

Pocketed slab.

Starting at the left-hand end of the long vertical face, traverse right along the slopey top and finish at the flake at the right-hand end. Surprisingly tricky.

Starting in the middle of the wall off the small left-hand sidepull and tiny right-hand crimp. Tricky feet and then launch for the slopey top. Fingery Fun.

Sit start on the short uphill arete (below the obvious hanging knob) with right-hand sidepull and lower of the two left-hand slopers. Fun.

Starting 2m left of "The Good Wife". Follow the line of edges and scoops up to a crux at the top with a cruisy mantle to finish. Mega classic!

Essentially Nasty Knob, without the right-hand sidepulls. Sit start below the horn, with the slopers at the base of the vague arête. Now go straight up via some small divots and slopers to gain the horn. Reachy last move.

Same as "The right cheek" but starting high with pads or blocks.

Start 2m right of "Bum Crack" with a high slopey left-hand pinch, and a bad lower right-hand hold. Paste your feet and up to some slopes and a tricky mantle. Stack mats or blocks to reach the left-hand start hold if you are too short - see "The right cheek high start".