Routes in North for selected grade

A 'Castle Hill' classic. A great climb to do in the afternoon. The route was rebolted in late 1998 and again in 2017 to make it completely safe. Simply great climbing with excellent positions up the top.

Start: Starts a few metres down R of TS. If you can't find TS, walk past the bouldering wall, keeping an eye out for a wide chimney (landmark) up through the grass on your L. Continue past this for a few metres, keeping on the track until you hit the (overall) third railing on the track. Once here, punch up the hill through the grass for 10m (no track) to the base of the blunt arête of the large, slightly detached block that is the start of the climb. You'll know you're on track if you see a series of big, silver 90 degree FHs quite close together up the face.

1. 20m (18) A tricky lead with some insecure moves. Easily to clip the first FH. Cruxy moves through to third FH. More FHs until you reach the crack where the climb eases. Chain belay behind the tree. 'Escape' off L (chains) is possible here, but keep climbing because the next pitches are better.

2. 20m (16) From the DBB behind the tree, step up onto the cheat stone and L onto the thin face past first FH. Nice moves past some thin stuff with odd thank-you-God jug will lead you past FHs to the massive, exposed slab with fantastic views, easy moves. More FHs up the slab until the ledge and DBB. A great pitch. You can scramble off L here if needed.

3. 30m (19) Step R using the slightly loose block to clip the first FH above the belay. Now instead of traversing R for the Vision Original Finish, continue straight up through the crux at midway following the bolts to the DBB.

You'll need 12 quickdraws + something for the DBB the anchor.

Speed Record

The current speed ascent record is held by Jarrah Brand-Adams & Christopher Glastonbury with a time of 7 minutes 15 seconds.

Glen Hayford & Sam Lavender 17:54.

18-12-19 Jarrah Brand-Adams & Christopher Glastonbury 10:45.

22-12-19 J B-A & CG 8:06.

22-12-19 J B-A & CG 7:15.

One of the best crack routes on the 'Playground'.

Start: The obvious crack 2m R of "Eye of the Tiger" good placements for "pro" throughout. (Can be top roped off double bolts above climb)

Start at "Wimps in the Gym" move left at roof then straight away climb diagonally up and right past carrot to finish. (Can be top roped off double bolts above climb)

Starts on the first four bolts of OMF and continues straight up. It's a classic route and a very nice warm-up route for the area. There is a small cairn (a rock stack) to reach the bad starting holds and then up to the better hold.

Start in the middle of the rock and follow a straight line up. The crux it just below the top cliff.

Starting 4m right of TCYRIO. Pass the small plant next to the 1st bolt and then a tricky slab section, layback up block to orange streak and DRB in back of bowl. Shares the same anchors as Steel Cavalry.

Starting on the arête to the left of "Par 3". This fun climb is a mega classic with spectacular views and providing a true feeling of exposure. This awe inspiring climb offering excellent photo opportunities with powerful starting moves and an interesting mix of crimps and balancey high block steps for the rest, up to the lower-off.

Starting just left of Nacho Libre, this is an excellent warm-up route for the area, with a technical start, and a consistent intensity level up to the finish after a short rest. Fun and technical!

Start far right, work pockets and incredible hidden undercling jug up weakness to orange patch. Nice pinch into jugs and topout

'TFG' at start of climb. A little faded.

Sit in rocky hole, work left hand crack using wall features for V1, V2 for direct up crack without wall's aid

Who doesn't like a spicy finish? At the second last bolt traverse left and into the corner. Once you are in the corner then come back right onto the exposed juggy face to reach the anchor.

Extension to Wings of Steel - a real slab adventure for true slab ambassadors!

Work holds in centre of wall, end again is slightly scarce of holds working cenral due to angles. But works, topout

The obvious rising traverse line from L to R on the next side around. Start as far left as possible and slap along right on very open-grip holds. Finish by topping out on the boulder. Quite a bit harder when done barefoot.

A balancy crack and face climbing to a slope at the top with a pleasant top out. Classic. See Bum Crack Sit-start for a slightly harder problem.

Starting 4m right of TCYRIO at CAC. Climb up for 3 bolts, past the small plant next to the 1st bolt and the tricky slab section, then traverse left and link into TCYRIO. This route shares the same anchors as TCYRIO.

Starts 5m R of TEOR, around the next side of the pinnacle. Clip the 1st FH and climb onto the face before heading L around the arete and up the vertical face, avoiding any of the large cheat stones for your feet (FH). Up, clipping the 3rd FH off a LH mono before reaching for the arete. Continue up the arete (2 FHs) before traversing (crux) around the bulge clipping the tricky 5th FH. Now up the overhanging wall on jugs to the chains.

One of the mega classic multi-pitches at Frederick Peak bolted by the three monkeys themselves.

1. 12m 13 Trend right on 'Gringo Nomad' slab to the right of the orange streak.

2. 25m 19 Technical & fingery crack into corner.

3. 27m 20 Up the arête then traverse 3m right to anchor on uber cave ledge.

4. 12m 15 Up jugs and then left around steep arête.

Up laybacks to jugs on loose granite. No good foot holds.

Arete just left of “Spiderman”. Great.

Climbs the prominent arete which is surprisingly featured! A brilliant climb with a challenging start. Recommend to clip the 2nd bolt early before entering the start crux moves to the obvious ledge above. The optional two bolt extension ('Turn to Gold') is thin, and goes at grade 24.

Start 4m R of Satisfice. Long varied pitch on nice green rock. Seeps badly when wet.

Starts in corner move up then traverse left before roof to carrot on the arete then up past two more carrots then left to the fixed hanger bolt. (Can be top roped off double bolts above climb)

Starts 0.5m right of the start of SH at the two-handed undercling. Pull onto wall, slap up and left to hold, crimp, then a balancy high step and pull up to jugs and top of boulder.

Up on nice flakes. Start in the middle of the wall, moving right to the top. This is the descent route for the boulder and it is a little tricky.

Uses pockets right of Wanderer's crack and into flake to pocket and jug topout via mantle

Use FLIP's thin crack into finger lock, top out over and through crack right of horizontal flake. Start seated by the base of the i

Steep slopey layback flake up crumbly boulder that's a nice breather from the crimps. Best from a crouched start.

Starts at the L hand side of the wall with the arch, at the big trail arrow painted on the rock, 3m R of O. Watch out for a loose hold at the 2nd bolt. Up jugs to below overhung scoop then up through scoop (don't pike-off left onto slab!) and directly up to mantle sloping ledge. Step R, up face, and over little block to good holds. Jug-haul runout up face and then up L to small ledge and double rings. Save your rope and rap off the rings rather than lower. 5 FHs.

The thin balance black slab 2m R of TAP. Finish at the same anchors as for TAP.

Tackles the concave face, not using the left-hand arete and finishing via the jug at the top.

Running start. Hard to do statically and for the shorter people.

Obvious groove for right-hand Hard move, then jugs, to tick one of the nicest V1’s around. There is a contrived variant just left, about V2.

A great high problem, starting off an obvious high handhold. Starting off with a few hard moves which lead to easy climbing.

A slabby adventure. Start as for Holiday to the pedestal. Step across the void to the R (FH) and crank up to the slab (crux). Now delicately up the slab passing two more FH's.

Starting immediately R of Toy Wall and about 25m right of Vision is the incredibly obvious 100m high, super-sustained 'Hardman Wall'.

1. 45m (19 crux) Starts 2m R of COA, R of the tree at the far L of the Hardman Wall. You'll need 5 hangers and 14 draws for this pitch in addition to gear for the bolted belay stations. Bridge up using the tree, then move R into the groove with optional cam slot (creates rope drag). Continue following line of bolts tending R up slab and steep headwall to chains.

2. 30m (17) From chains traverse up and right 7m to first FH, hard moves past next two FHs to thin crack. Follow this to chains on hollow ledge.

3. 40m (16) Obvious crack up steep wall till it trends R. Follow this on natural gear to join up with SAS for the last few BRs. Climbs the wall L of the major groove L of the Saint. DBB (need hangers).

A fun moderate on some big jugs. Climb "Core Whipped" for the first 3 RBs before moving diagonally up R and making a big finally rock over move into the small cave (sneaky big hidden hold in the white stone in the roof).

Bridge into the crack and top out delicately.

Excellent varied climbing up the E (seaward) face of The Pinnacle. Mark Gommers removed a thorn tree from this after it split a rope. Star a few m L of RTS.

1. The face past a carrot to the diagonal crackline L. Follow the crackline and then R to a thin seam. Up this to the overhang, clip the bolt above and traverse 2m R. Straight up the wall past 3 more carrots.

2. As for RTS.

As good as "Tannin"[12880699] - 35m of continuous varied climbing. All natural gear to one carrot at the top. An easier variant to SR. Start as for SR. Climb SR up the wide flake-crack to the roof. Exit roof to L and continue up the crack L of the blank corner. When the crack ends, move R and finish as for SR.

Start as for WTTJ then move R and follow the pillar system to join 2nd pitch of MA.

Swing start dyno (start with one foot on the wall and jump) using right-hand on arete, to jug.

Great climbing starting on the first three bolts of TLM pitch 1. Straight up the slab through immaculate orange rock trending right on ledge. Step out left from the sanctuary corner for exposed finish at FEOS anchor. Lower off these anchors or continue to p2 anchor of TLM.

Stick clip the first FH. Tricky start, cruxy to the second FH. Then engaging and consistent to the top.(about 16-17 after the second FH) its possible to get down on rope stretch on an 80m rope.

Interesting face climbing, take RPs and take care of the little blocky hold in the middle which is waiting to come off. Up the arete R of SITW starting of the ledge on the R. Swing L around the arete to finish up the top half of SOAD.

Starts just before The Fairy Garden, just after the large boulder – look for a stainless rivet at head height. Take 1 bracket.

1. 15m (17) Up past rivet into small corner and gear. Move left along ledge to gain slick diagonal crack. Follow this to belay ledge.

2. 20m (19) Follow the loose but easy buttress on the left side of the ledge to gain steep face. Climb through the sustained face passing 3 FHs and up to chains on ledge.

3. 45m (19) From the chains traverse right and up to FH. Technical moves past this (crux) to ledge with weakness on left side. Follow this tending left to sloping black ledge. Continue up cracks to the right of this ledge until you reach a large corner/chimney. Now up this to large ledge and tree belay.

Escape via hidden chains below large tree at southern end of ledge. 2 x 35m raps to the ground.

P1-2 Mark Gommers, Nathan Bolton, Adam Hardaker 1.7.03

P3 Rik Wittkopp, Mark Gommers 2.7.03

Shares 1st bolt of Jugs Murphy then branches directly up and right. Climb right between last bolt and anchor for jumbo jugs.

Pleasant face climbing. Start 4m R of SP below a FH and L of a thin seam. Arc L past 3 bolts to join the original.

Up the face, following a weakness up L to clip the last FH of Dechossify and then up to DBB.

Run out, chossy, and potential ground falls. Needs a couple of extra bolts.

Sit-start for "Spider Bite".

Arete from the right side, moving right to the same finishing jug as “Vertical Therapy”.

Climb ZZ to the big ledge. Blast straight up the middle of the wall passing 2 FH's.

Sit start matched on jug in middle of overhung face. Move to softball sized 3 finger pocket and large pinch-arete (over small ledge). Can toehook. Move to small two finger pocket (snooker ball size). Feet follow hands, can knee bar (sharp shark teeth). Edge (kidney shape hole). Then sloping pinch. Edge 10cm below top. Top out.

Climbs the striking arete!

Sit start to the left "plenty of pockets" you will see a nice side pull. Work your way up that until it stops half way up then finish by topping out the same way as plenty of pockets.

The most obvious line up the slab via the protrusions.

Left-hand variant of "Creaking Limbs", starting just to the left on better footholds, finishing via a great jug. Balancy goodness.

Well protected climb with steep hand jamming finish up splitter crack! U bolt anchor.

Far RH line off the ledge. Sustained jug haul on overhung orange rock.

Start as for DFAQL, then trend R and straight up large orange corner all the way to roof.

Pocketed slab.

Crap name - good climb. The scene of Lee Skidmore's brush with death (4m grounder onto back on grisly boulders). Don't let that deter you though, there is bomber pro. Starts right around the corner from the above two routes, about 15m from S. Up the overhanging layback crack then L to arête (BR). Up L side of arête past another BR and some natural pro in pockets to ledge. Finish up the short face behind (BR). Mind rope drag, or use two.

Up HW to the FH then out R up the steep stuff (cam). Up past another FH and up welcome wire. There is a blind wire placement on this route.

Slabby arete and face just left of block. Good.

Direct route up the middle of slab

Low right hold, into off-right vertical undercling, lean out and dyno (sort of) to central jug. Top out.

Use crack direct working to flared section and topout. Mind loose sounding section 3/4 of the way up. Should be solid. Use pockets right of crack with crack for V0

As per Disposable Heroes and then branches further right up blocky face. Take care with large amazing horn feature.

Traverse upstream to downsteam on good ledge using high feet (heels and toes) for V1. Another alternative is smear along the face making it a bit pumpier to V2 maybe. Is a lot easier using the lower slab though for feet making it V0.

Stand start on far left of the two boulders. traverse right staying at least a foot off the ground. Finish far right of second boulder

It's better, down where it's steeper, under the vines!

Sustained and requires you to keep at it

Start on same ledge/rail as TBP but a little to the left and two hand dyno straight up to good positive hold at top.

Stand start of "A Little Fervour VF"

Technical slabs between the cracks on the downhill face. A couple of different options. All excellent.

From centre of scoop using left arete.

The right-hand arête of "The Elevator" wall.

Running start up the slab and fall into the layback, move onto the headwall and top out. Watch out for loose blocks at the top.

Good slab for beginner highballs, identifiable holds and beginner technical moves and balance.

Climb the face and avoid the arete. Be careful clipping the fourth bolt.

Sit-start off the small Boulder, up and over the bulge.

Use bubbly crack to get to top

Match start on the slopey jug, plenty of feet around, pull up and go to a variety of intermediate holds then bust to the top, or do one massive move straight to the lip and mantle out. Watch your back on the boulder behind you, best protected with a pad.

Climbs up to the technical open book corner.

Hard start, great sidepulls

The crux is at the very beginning. Quickly after that, it turns into a grade 16 route. If you like bouldering, you will like the crux. There is a variant to the right that is slightly easier than the first direct move. Look at the topo image for more info.

A TR route off Basalt Assault's chains (use quickdraws on chain to reduce wear). Start 4m L of Basalt Assault with a layback hanging L from the granite xenolith. Layback up xenolith slab to a mantle shelf. Undercling, traversing R off mantle shelf on small footholds. Up L to nice jug. Step R onto xenolith and straight up on extremely fingery holds to finish 1m L of BA's chains.

Start up 3rd pitch of MA then trend R over the bulge past 5 bolts into Terra Nullius. Cool off-balance move down low. Up orange corner to steep tricky finish on great rock.

An exciting lead. Start as for Holiday but go straight up the deep dark line (GA) to the chockstones, step L onto the arete and take it to the top.

Sit start laybacking off the arete, punch up to the break and go until you top out.

Starts straight on at the base of “Any Which Way” arete and then moves left onto face.

Sit start. Located left of "In and Out". You can see a fish painted in blue to your left. Sit on lone rock, right hand on pinch and right foot on the rock in front. Lay back and swing to left intermediate crimp, then bump up to edge.

Standing start with both hands palm down in horizontal crack, step feet up onto the rock and extend up to reach a large sloper, then top out. The left hand crack / arete are not to be used.

Face just to the right of “Beached Whale”.

Start sitting at arete's base, into bubble features to topout

Sit start, reach for hold on left. Top out to the right and scramble down the side.

The face between the slab and the pocketed walls. Layback and face climb to top out.

Sit start on the right hand side of "It's Arete" work your way up the series of pockets and jugs finish with a somewhat exposed overahanging top out. Great warm up with a little bit of height.