Ascents in SuperHardToFind Wall

Yep this is hard. Had a few attempts now. Yep this is hard.

Absolute banger of a line

Stoked to pull through the first 3-4 moves. Cool movement!

Got past the pocket 'match' and stuck the next hold. Tried at nighttime so couldn't see where to go next. Will go down soon with some more training

Cool. Pete Crane made a little video of it. https://vimeo.com/127455496

First section completely dialed in, struggling with long left hand move with a high left foot, I can pull hard enough to reach the hold but need more contact strength to actually hold it.

Keep getting to the same spot not able to get any tension on the left foot for the big left hand bump

Hitting left hand bump consistently. Worked upper moves - very scary

I hit the hold and latched it but the foot slipped... More campus training required

you only get a couple good attempts - next time!

7th session. Still falling on the same move but atleast I have 50% tension this time instead of just flopping off

To be able to climb a boulder from an international legend of the sport is beyond awesome.

Got through to the crimp match and moving out to crux bump, spooky hard and kinda trash mincing on that left crimp. Maybe one day but not atm.

Isolated the move from the matches crimp out and to the crux bump, went from the start and link to the the bump up, had fingers over the lip of hold just went too far. Would like to try the top with a rope cause that scary as.

Could have a chance of sending this!

Another few throws, getting comfortably to the crux bump now, just need to dial the feet and work on locking. Did the top out from the crux Spock to top on a rope, and the end kinda a mini crux. Progress tho, should train my locks on small edges more!

Another session falling off the same move for the last 3 years. It'll stick eventually

15+ sessions later over 3 years. Finally stuck the crux. Just need to link from the start now. Psyched

Lackluster session... didnt feel very fresh. Semi-consistently doing the bump move atleast

Did the bump move in iso 2nd try, feeling so much more solid compared to last year now I actually know what I'm doing. Only a matter of time

Nothing to report. Good skin + felt good on the holds. Missing the body position

Gave it a couple attempts. Felt really good on the crux move hitting it but not holding it. Tried the top as well.

Feeling pretty confident for when everything line's up perfectly. Need to be more consistent if I want to actually do it. Mental more than physical at this point. I feel like I've 'learned' how to fall on the crux because I've done it so much

Had a play. Second dyno is cray cray. Cool though.

What an epic dyno. Is this possible?

Such a cool problem. Definitely the next king line to fall i reckon. 9 or 10 probs.

Had a play on this after i was spent on remember to forget. sussed out the bottom and managed clean to the small crimp thing out right which seems like thr business end.

Worked out some stuff, going up past the jump to sloping crimp is hard. Small mono potentially useful.

Bit clueless on this one tbh, mad power throw to sloper and then kinda confused getting to the Gaston rail, figured out from there to the top out and the start just lost in the in between.

Couldn't pull past the broken hold to higher edges. Pretty awesome boulder. [5]

Sweet problem. I'll be back. Launched off the broken crimp, not quite to anything above.

Me thinks it's harder. Feels more 9. Such a great problem.

Felt harder than last time. Still wicked fun though. [2]

Sick. Worked till I could touch the high good edge. Now to stick it.

New heelhook beta is bomber as. Made progress to the high gaston after the good crimp rail. The real business starts here, it seems.

Tried the heelhook beta, didn't work at all, then tried the deadpoint beta to the good edge and worked much better, flashed up to the gaston with that beta. That last move is hard. I am considering trying to dyno from the good edge to the crux hold and just skip the gaston thing. Coolish problem.

Great route, hopefully stick the crux move next time

solid progress, need to sort out my beta for the top

Awesome first session on this with Phil. up to the crux throw so just need to figure that out.

Awesome first session on this with Phil. up to the crux throw so just need to figure that out.

So many attempts on this! I think we put about 10 - 15 shots. Definitely our style, power and crimpy. Probably need another mat and a good spotter!

Another 10ish shots new beta worked really well and it should go very soon.

Conditions were rubbish with 99% humidity even though temps were better at 24-26 degrees. Managed to get a few good shots touching the deadpoint move but not controlled enough so lots more work to go.

About 6 shots with nice Cool temps before 7am, was spitting a bit of rain but nothing bad. Friction was much better than previous shots and managed to hit the last hold a couple of times but struggled to keep my feet on and then after bearing down as hard as possible took the tip of one of the left fingers which ended attempts on this. Defiantly feels like it will go soon though.

2nd Ascent, awesome line on an awesome wall - Before the top holds shrunk