Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | Crag | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
V2 | ★★ Lazarus
Sit-Start to the left of the cave entrance and follow the obvious holds along the lip. Finish as for Too Soft. Beta- https://youtu.be/AhPA2D2BDb4 FA: Alex Turnbull, 2013 | 4m | White Rock Conservation Area | ||
V4 | ★★ Gravel Pit
Start on jug at bottom left of cave, traverse right then up on thin face holds, before powerful move to gain big finishing jug. FA: Daniel Gordon, 2013 | 3m | White Rock Conservation Area | ||
V4 | ★★ Crack
Stand-start using the right leaning crack, head straight-up to finish with a big move to the hold under the roof. One of the classic problems of the area. | 4m | White Rock Conservation Area | ||
V5 | ★★★ Antiquity
The original line. Sit start on jugs in the middle of the wall. Head straight up and mantle out. Classic FFA: Rob Saunders, 1992 | 3m | White Rock Conservation Area | ||
V3 | ★★ V2 Traverse
Start on the right, traverse across on good rails and head halfway across the lip via a cool pocket above the largest part of the lip. | 4m | Toohey Forest | ||
V4 | ★★ Star-Jug Destroyer
Sit start below “Jabba the promiscuous space slug” on the middle of the rail. Straight up, veering right to finish matched on “Gravel Pit” jug. FA: Phil Beattie, 2013 | 3m | White Rock Conservation Area | ||
V1 | ★ European Cave Man
Sit start at base of obvious flake, up flake trending left to top out. | 3m | White Rock Conservation Area | ||
V1 | ★ Groovy
Start on good holds on prominent bulge under and to the L of the high ferns. | 4m | Toohey Forest | ||
V0 | ★ Meteor
Sit start. Follow pockmarks straight up the face and top out. | 3m | Toohey Forest | ||
V0 | ★ TIE Fighter
Start at base of flake at the back of cave, follow flake upwards to finish at end of flake. FA: Alex Turnbull, 2013 | 2m | White Rock Conservation Area | ||
V1 | ★ It Gets Better
Stand-start on the right side of the small cave- left of The Downfallen. Head up and slightly right on good holds. | 4m | White Rock Conservation Area | ||
V3 | ★★ Rail throw
Sitstart as low as you desire under blunt arete, up and L to awesome rail, top out. | 3m | Toohey Forest | ||
V4 | ★★ Tree Fall
Crouch start using high RH side pull and LH undercling moving up to a break then into a very powerful crux. Classic of the area | 4m | White Rock Conservation Area | ||
V4 | ★★★ Zig Zag Railway
Start at the end of the back rail left of Shinkasen. traverse right past Metro Papineau start and finally transfer onto the shelve. Finish as Metro Papineau. The must do of the Cave. FA: Ross Fergusson, 2013 | 8m | White Rock Conservation Area | ||
V1 | ★ Funk arete
Start on good right sidepull, up and bounce across L to rail, then top out straight up or up R. | 3m | Toohey Forest | ||
V4 | ★★ Orient Express
Start inside the cave mid-way in (to the right side - first possible sit start) on obvious holds. Follow the big rail and finish as for Too Soft. FA: Sam Bowman, 2013 | 4m | White Rock Conservation Area | ||
V2 | ★★ Slab
Sit start, up trending right on the slab with a high pocket then top out. | 3m | Cedar Creek | ||
V8 | ★★★ Tuscan Raider
Start on big undercling, head straight out through roof on some small holds. Finish with a real mantle. Powerful, techy, steep and poopy - it's got it all. FA: Sam Bowman, 2013 | 5m | White Rock Conservation Area | ||
V2 | ★★ Dyno
Fun juicy dyno from hold in the middle up to jug. | 1m | Cedar Creek | ||
V5 | ★★ Broken Glass
Start on the cobble under the roof. After a dynamic RH move from the crimp rail to a good hold on the lip, smack your LH up to the sloper. A difficult mantle makes the send feel hard-earned yet satisfying. Aptly named for the sharpness of the holds. | 3m | Toohey Forest | ||
V6 | ★★★ Shinkansen
Sit-start at the back of the cave on obvious holds and follow the nice line out of the cave. Mantle to top-out. FA: Sam Bowman, 2013 | 10m | White Rock Conservation Area | ||
V5 | ★★ Pinch arete
Sit start on sloper, throw to right pinch, delicate foot then hump to lip. | 2m | Cedar Creek | ||
V5 | ★★ The Rick White Problem
Start on good undercling, straight up and mantle. The first ascent of this problem was done by Mr Rick White in the mid 1970s. Respect! Set: Rick White | 4m | Toohey Forest | ||
V6 | ★★ Butter Me Up
Sit-start on low pockets. Powering straight up and veering right, leads you to an easy mantle out. An exceedingly popular face-climb! FA: Rob Appleby | 4m | Toohey Forest | ||
V0 | ★ C'mon more energy!
Stand-start on the left hand side of slab, straight up in a test of your single-leg strength. The wall to your left is not in. | 3m | White Rock Conservation Area | ||
V1 | ★ Too Soft
Start on good holds on the lip of cave. Continue through mantle top-out. FA: Peter & Madeleine, 2013 | 4m | White Rock Conservation Area | ||
V4 | ★★ Aiokiasof
Start at beginning of 'Too Soft', boulder 'Orient Express' in reverse and finish on the round pocket of 'In Transit'. Original first ascent at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ytHPlIJcl4s Solid V4 or soft V5. | 5m | White Rock Conservation Area | ||
V6 | ★★ Graffiti cave traverse
Start under the cave, traverse right, crux is move through hanging block then right onto face and up. | 3m | Cedar Creek | ||
V1 | ★ Climb 9
Start at Jacked and move out R along shelf and straight up over the 9 painted onto the rock. | 3m | Toohey Forest | ||
V0 | ★ OutBound
Start as for Lazarus but escape around the left corner of the cave. FFA: Harry Bowman, 2013 | 3m | White Rock Conservation Area | ||
V2 | ★★ Left side
Start of great undercling at the back, hard move up and the easy traverse left and top out. | 2m | Cedar Creek | ||
V2 | ★★ Edges like a babies bum
Stand start on good edge, head straight up on decent holds. | 3m | White Rock Conservation Area | ||
V2 | ★ Bulbous
SS. Pull up, slap to large sidepull then throw for bulbous sloper and mantle. For 4 Vermin points instead, crank directly straight up to the bulb. | 3m | Toohey Forest | ||
V0- | Jacked
Start at on large holds just L of overhang and straight up to mantle. | 3m | Toohey Forest | ||
V2 | ★ Slap-a-crack
Sit-start at the bottom of the crack using obvious block. Head up left, following the crack and making use of good features on the face. | 3m | White Rock Conservation Area | ||
V3 | ★★ Jug traverse
Fun jug traverse across face. | 3m | Cedar Creek | ||
V3 | ★★ Pustekuchen
Sit Start in the middle of the boulder with left hand on a full hand pinch and right on a small pocket, push up and latch to the next pocket above followed by an array of nice pockets to choose on your way to the top. | 4m | Toohey Forest | ||
V9 | ★★★ Remember to Forget
The middle/left line on “Superhard wall” from the big slopey pocket straight up. The tiny crux crimp has been broken since its original ascent by Oliver Miller. Has now been resent by Sam Bowman in it's new harder state. The thin crux gaston hold is continually breaking and reforming. FA: Oliver Miller, 2011 FA: 2014 | 5m | White Rock Conservation Area | ||
V6 | ★★★ Pendeltåg
Start inside cave on the left. Obvious hole leads to shelf and joins Shinkansen at the compression moves. Finish as for Too Soft. FFA: Patrik Banda, 2013 | 9m | White Rock Conservation Area | ||
V0- | ★ Lobe
Start up the R arête on large holds | 4m | Toohey Forest | ||
V1 | ★ Meteoright
Start as for Meteor. Traverse to the right before topping out on Galaxy. | 3m | Toohey Forest | ||
V1 | ★ Worth The Squeeze
The Orange streak- SS with tricky mantle top out | 2m | Springwood Conservation Park | ||
V3 | ★★ Sandstorm
Start at base of flake (same start as TIE Fighter) at the back of the cave, traverse left along flakes to finish at big jug on arete. FA: James Douglas, 2013 | 4m | White Rock Conservation Area | ||
V2 | ★ Ear
Sit start with large L sidepull up to huge cave hold, then straight up to R of fig on good holds | 4m | Toohey Forest | ||
V2 | ★ Horned Banthas
Start on good flake at the start of the crack in the wall, straight up past crack line to horn finishing on jug just above. FA: 2 Aug 2018 | 2m | White Rock Conservation Area | ||
V2 | ★ Rock-skating
Stand-start using flake, then straight up with some nice footless sections. | 2m | White Rock Conservation Area | ||
V5/6 | ★★ Baby Bonus
Start this crag classic, on the left side of the big tree- matched on the predominate jug. Traverse the big bulge to a powerful, morpho slap. Finish up and left. FA: Dan gordon, 2012 | 3m | Springwood Conservation Park | ||
V1 | ★ The Downfallen
Sit start on the right side of the little cave. LH on slopper pinch jug- right on sidepull crack- feet start on dish underneath the RH crack. Ascend FA: Jimmy Blackhall, 2018 | 3m | White Rock Conservation Area | ||
V1 | ★ 8 straight up (area B)
| 2m | Toohey Forest | ||
V3 | ★★ Two finger lock
Stand start with a decent two finger lock, then get your feet up and it's over. | 2m | Cedar Creek | ||
V0 | ★ Arete
Follow the prominent arête up on large holds. | 3m | Toohey Forest | ||
V1 | ★ Warm Up
Juicy holds, and chipped holds over the high mantle. | 4m | Toohey Forest | ||
V3 | ★ Slab-n-pop
Stand-start on right hand side of slab using obvious foot, straight-up. | 3m | White Rock Conservation Area | ||
V0 | Grovel Train
Start in middle of small face, then head right into wide crack and grovel your way to victory. | 3m | White Rock Conservation Area | ||
V0 | ★ Nun’s Vagina
Sit start straight up crack using both sides. | 2m | Toohey Forest | ||
V0 | Flakey
Sit start at the bottom of the left leaning crack, then head up and left. | 2m | White Rock Conservation Area | ||
V4 | ★★ Electric Batmobile
Start on Shark Repellent Bat Spray, but instead of topping out straight up, traverse right using fingery holds on a cryptic sequence- joining into Technological Singularity to top out. FA: David Jefferson, 17 Jan 2020 | 3m | White Rock Conservation Area | ||
V4 | ★★ Métro Papineau
Start on the mushroom hold in the middle, back of the cave. A drop down move get's you onto the big shelve. Reach under for Orient Express pockets. Finish as Shinkasen. Pumper. FA: Antoine Moussette, 2013 | 6m | White Rock Conservation Area | ||
V2 | ★★ Sandpiper
Starts same as Gravel Pit, except head right and finish as for TIE Fighter. FA: Elizabeth Cuskelly, 2013 | 2m | White Rock Conservation Area | ||
V3 | ★★ Iron-stone crimp technique
Stand-start on small iron-stone edges and ok feet, straight up. | 3m | White Rock Conservation Area | ||
V1 | ★ Sideburn
L to cobble cup and up into undercling in cave for good holds to top | 4m | Toohey Forest | ||
V4 | ★★★ Happy Apple
Sit-start matched to the right on distinct rail, then head up and left to top out. A moderate test piece, and one of the best of the grade in the state. FA: 1999 | 3m | Donnelly's Castle | ||
V8 | ★★★ Bane
Sit start this ceiling classic, on the lip of the outside obvious bowl and blast your way into the cave. Finishing at the central big flake inside the top of the roof. Sharp, tensiony, thuggey goodness. FA: Sam Bowman, 9 Feb 2015 | 4m | White Rock Conservation Area | ||
V1 | ★ Jump'n'Hump
| 3m | White Rock Conservation Area | ||
V3 | ★★ Climb 10
Start in cave below the painted 9 and move up to R without using large boulder to the R. Straight up arête above painted O. | 3m | Toohey Forest | ||
V1 | ★ Nose
Reach for holds or use large hole to reach holds, which is harder. Can use undercling to find holds. | 4m | Toohey Forest | ||
V2 | ★ 9
Sit start on good edges, straight to the top and mantle. Stand start goes at V0. FA: Phil Beattie, 2014 | 2m | White Rock Conservation Area | ||
V1 | ★ Sarong
Straight up, using the L arête and flake to the R. Mantle out. | 2m | Toohey Forest | ||
V0 | ★ Short and Crack
Up the obvious wide crack in the corner, bridging on some nice percussive rock. | 2m | White Rock Conservation Area | ||
V8 | ★★ Midship man
Start on the opposing crimps, up past side pull to high flake. FA: Michael Garrahy, 2011 | 3m | Cedar Creek | ||
V2 | ★★ Naughts and Crosses
Crag classic of the easier problems. Stand start on crimps, then head up and left to arete to topout. | 3m | Donnelly's Castle | ||
V3 | ★★ And Better
Stand-start using good edges and big foot above the left hand side of the small cave. Trend up and a little right. | 4m | White Rock Conservation Area | ||
V2 | ★★ The Roof Is On Fire
First move is R hand up and right. Feet low under the bulge. | 3m | Springwood Conservation Park | ||
V0- | ★ Large Crack
Up the crack, if you're bored add a grade by purely jamming it. | 4m | Toohey Forest | ||
{FB} V4 | ★★ Sit Start
Sit start on small undercling. Can be done using the numerous small holds or with larger dynamic moves, either option is about as hard. Mantle over the top. Right hand on good undercling, side pull to left then throw left to good edge, match throw again and mantle. | 2m | Cedar Creek | ||
V1 | ★★ SPaK crack
Follow the textbook hand crack (if only it was 10 times longer...) Or cheat and face climb it to avoid the crack. | 3m | Cedar Creek | ||
V1 | ★ Arete and traverse
Traverse up the L arête and traverse L | 4m | Toohey Forest | ||
V1 | ★ Flup
Straight up, using only the flake to top. | 2m | Toohey Forest | ||
V0 | ★ The nose
Start just R of 2 and throw high to good holds. | 3m | Toohey Forest | ||
V2 | ★ Illicit Arete
Sit start at the base of the arete, left of slab the slab wall. There is a small pocket for right hand low on arete. Follow arete keeping feet smeared slab, avoid use of left hand face. Perfect hold halfway. Rails just left of arete on face are in for V1, out for V2. Topout at top of arete. Set: Jared Tyerman FA: Jared Tyerman | 4m | Trinity Beach | ||
V1 | ★ Bulge
Right pinch on the bulge, up with left and then tenuous mantle | 4m | Toohey Forest | ||
V7 | ★★★ If the Shoe Slips
Improbably blunt arete. Start on good R ledge and undercling up using L edges and high slopers. Harder for short persons. FA: Geoff | 3m | Toohey Forest | ||
V0 | ★★ Mouth
Stand start from the rail in the middle of the cave. Follow the obvious line straight up through the middle of the cave to mantle the top. | 4m | Toohey Forest | ||
V8 | ★★★ Wild Honey
FA: Matt Cochrane | 8m | Passchendaele State Forest | ||
V0 | ★ Schadenfreude Culture
Between orange and white streaks | 2m | Springwood Conservation Park | ||
V4 | ★★ Alfred
When inside cave start on the far right side, sit started on good holds. The caves classic climbs the cool rail and crack weakness inside the cave till the big jug shelf at the end. FA: Not sure, 2000 | 3m | White Rock Conservation Area | ||
V1 | ★ Galaxy
Sit start with right hand on side pull and left on crimp. Throw right to high pocket and top out through the smooth blankness. | 3m | Toohey Forest | ||
V4 | ★★★ Blue Moon
Stand-start this classic ‘one move wonder’ problem reaching for the large pocket, figuring out a way to mantle it. FA: Peter Crane | 3m | Passchendaele State Forest | ||
V3 | ★ BARFJ Traverse
Start in crack left of CC, finish on jugs above MF. | 3m | Kangaroo Point | ||
V4 | ★★★ The Explorer's Club
Stand start with small crimps and marginal feet. Don't be tempted by going straight up; instead, traverse the face and top out to the right of the overhanging block. FA: Peter Crane | 4m | Passchendaele State Forest | ||
V3 | ★★ L to R traverse
Stand start, move right on blocky slopy holds | 4m | Cedar Creek | ||
V2 | ★ 5
Stand start with good side pull and small edge, head straight up. Sit start goes at V6. | 2m | White Rock Conservation Area | ||
V3 | ★★ Arabesque
Super balancy slab. FA: Dan Gordon, 2013 | 4m | White Rock Conservation Area | ||
V8 | ★★★ The Fat Man Traverse
Start as for Unleash the Dancer Within and traverse L the whole way, topping out at Smoke and Mirrors. FA: simon moses | 5m | Toohey Forest | ||
V0 | ★ A Nice Walk
Improbably worthwhile slab opposite Chicken, Brie, and Avacado on the other side of the track. Do it with no hands (not even pressing against the rock!) to add a grade or two and get an awesome lesson in balance! | 3m | White Rock Conservation Area | ||
V7 | ★★ Unleash the Dancer Within
Start under roof on undercling. Long throw with right to jug at lip. Aim for high left pocket or straight up. | 4m | Toohey Forest | ||
V0 | Big Triangle
VE Squat start with hands on good edge, up and mantle. Easy, somehow fun | 3m | White Rock Conservation Area | ||
V0 | ★ Corner
Standing start with a high foot straight up the corner, obvious jugs all the way. Sit start variant for a V1 finish. | 2m | Springwood Conservation Park | ||
V7 | ★★★ Parkes And Recreation
Sit start on low sloping edge, following arete to the bouler's highpoint. Has turned into a popular test-piece at the grade FA: Matt Cochrane | 3m | Passchendaele State Forest | ||
V5 | ★★ The Orchard
Sit start with fingery holds and power up to a jug, before a quest from left to right on an array of classy holds. Top out the same as “Dirty Action” on the tallest part of the Boulder. This is a classic for the grade, on the Granite Belt. | 4m | Donnelly's Castle |