Routes in Fleurieu Peninsula

The large split boulder on the right of the descent route to Mal De Mer. Climb the off width crack that runs up the centre. Some flakes are brittle, and there is no pro so it's best to use an anchored spotter as a fall could be serious.

Amble up a metre R of Nesta del Crow.

Rap down behind the top of the Buster Hymen block to find a slab system that looks about grade 14. Referred to as Mer Sea in the Nick Neagle guidebook.

From the start of Octopus's Garden, head up the crack past two bolts. Finish up the orange arete past one more. Take medium cams.

The boulder viewed from the car park.

Start: The crack on the car par side. A few cams see you topping out.

The southern face of the boulder viewed from the car park.

Start: A thin diagonal finger crack on the south face.

Start: The sustained hand crack to the ramp.

Resist the temptation to move L from the crack towards the undercling. Stay in the crack, clip a bolt and join the original route at the R end of the big overlap. Hard.

At the wedge take the R crack and rejoin RSATL up high.

The easiest route on this part of the cliff gets no stars.

Start same as "Technically Gifted" and continue straight up.

The first 10m are well protected and fairly solid, but after that be prepared for sandy ledges, brittle rock, dirt and bushes. At top, traverse left (no gear) for 5m to a DBB.

A traverse of cephalopod wall in either direction staying about 10m above the rock or water.

This trad route requires a big cam for the hole and small wires/RPs thereafter.

Start up the crack system and vertical quartz seam left of the major chimney and in front of the large viewing block until it is possible to reach out left to an obvious large hole.

From this, continue diagonally up and left through strenuous moves to the DBB.

as in the guide book

A short memorable '14'. Adding to the excitement is how long will the window last!

Start: Start from inside the Tafoni (umbrella looking rock). Thread a sling through the window, clip and go! Step out then make your way over the top.

Takes a line on the left side of the wave platform, starting with a carrot bolt then leading up past FH's to a mid section requiring trad. Take a breath and move up into the crux (bolt protected) which involves a span out right. Has been known to throw off 6'4" grade 29 climbers yet see 5'3" grade 22 climbers onsight it - so no excuses!

Start 3m right of the end of 'Flight of the Gull.' The difficult start is accentuated by the threat of waves.

Left leaning cracks for 20m until it closes to a seam. Then Walk the Plank gingerly rightwards (no gear) to the DBB.

How the the route is meant to be climbed! Pitch 1 to the DBB. From here continue directly up the slab to the horizontal. Head for the vertical slot and follow this to the very top. Exit at the very top of the cliff through the opening. Rock deteriorates significantly on the second pitch.

Up 'Walk the Plank' for 8m then straight up past ring bolts. Head a bit left at the top to gain the Plank and step R to the DBB.

Up the front of the big boulder that looks like a ship's prow when looking east from Tai Chi Lychee Boulder

The scene of an epic first ascent story. Originally climbed entirely on trad then later retrobolted (by the first ascentionists). A classic that gets harder as you get closer to the belay. Well worth doing.

Well, it had some beer cans in it at least. Up the squeeze chimney between the two rocks and out the back. FA was solo, it's quite hard to fall out, but would possibly take some very large cams (BD 5 or 6?). May be a bit harder and more interesting if the loose chock-stones were cleaned out of the chimney

Hard start traversing into the diagonal slashes then up these to a final cruxy section that traverses left to an anchor.

Start: Scramble up the gully to where the crack breaks out right over an overhang and onto a slab above. Follow this to where it peters out over a little overlap, then step left and past an undercling en route to a big hole at the main overlap. Then traverse out right to finish on the short final wall.

Start straight up the crack. Well protected.

Straight up above the hole in the big overlap past a bolt. This finish is shared with Fin de Siecle.