Routes in Lucas Heights

Bouldery from start to finish! Starts 1m left of Reactorvate. Up and left on grey jugs, then over reachy rooflet to first horizontal break. Up using the mutated hold to next horizontal break. Jam/undercling/curse up the wall to next horizontal break under big roof. Swing through this to hard final move onto ledge and lower-off rings.

First two bolts of Reactorvate, then slightly right and straight up seam on reachy fingerlocks to roof crack. Undercling out to lip and anchors.

A long thin traverse on gorgeous orange rock. Start up Reactorvate for two bolts, then head right for 10m past FHs and RBs to handcrack. Up this for a few metres to anchor bolts on bulge.

Start 5m left of MB climb up the fern wall and reach out to the sloper rail. Traverse and cross through monkey bars and continue through to slopers of doom to the jug for the anchors.

James Stuart

Gorgeous orange bulging wall about 20m left of Where's Wally. Rightwards up grey slopers to hollow undercut orange flake. Traverse left across sloping break to small corner. Up this to horizontal crack under big roof. Traverse 2m right then out roof (crux) to anchor on lip. Hands on the top for the tick.

Start below the big roof 5m left of Monkey Bar. Boulder up the wall (no bolts) then out the big roof. 3 FHs to chain on right.

Fun jug featured roof climb. So many options on how to tick it.

Climb the start of monkey bar to the second break then head right to finish Apeis

Climb the first half of Apeis Stupidius and take the early exit to finish Monkey Bars

Outrageous roof climbing. Short wall then out roof on pockets to catch the monkey bar jug in the lip. Finish up tricky slopes heading left (don't go up the dirty crack). All u-bolts apart from one FH in the roof.

Start up Cortisone for 5 bolts then traverse left under the top roof for two bolts to finish of the Apeis anchors.

Shares start and the first 2 bolts with OtaNS, then heads left thru slopey steepness to easy finish on nice ergonomic jugs.

A flawed and incomplete route superseded by the easier and better OtaNS. The bolts on this route are very unsafe rusted unwelded rings. Do not trust them. Start: Below undercut wall. Campus jugs past crap RB, then up easy slab to ledge. Straight up to manky RB, and aid on this to bypass hard move. Continue up past another crap RB (beaten up) to ledge. Move up and left over bulge and mantle onto the grotty black slab and rap chain.

2m left of Mr Burns, above small tree stump. Steep start through bulge, then long moves between horizontals and through roof to anchors. Reachy!

Start 2m left of where's Wally. Up the thin crack to the fun roof jugs then out to the crimpy lip and up to the seam to clip anchors. It's short but sweet. Hope you've got a knee pad. 🥳

Nice full length sport route that is slightly spoiled by the midway ledge. Start below shallow corner in front of block with FH. Up the corner to sloping break, traverse right 2m then up with a powerful move to door-handle jug (sling it). Mantle onto ledge, then left a metre and up steep juggy grey wall to hard slab move to gain base of huge roof. Monkey across roof for 2m to chain-anchor on lip (hard to clip, toe jam the break!). All bolts, including the FHs are glue-ins and bomber. The route originally bailed left at the third bolt, and was extended by Neil in 2014.

Fission Trip for three bolts then left through rooflet on amazing rock. Keep traversing left to hanging bulge and finish up slab then reach over roof to finish jugs and single large U bolt anchor. Best to back jump to clean.

An epic traverse, and possibly the longest trad route in the Shire. Up Yo! Don Bosco to the third bolt, then traverse right along the horizontal break under the big roof for 30m to bolt rap anchor. The crack is mostly hand size, but some finger and fist sized cams are also needed.

Not worth the star given here. The following climb is accessed by rapping in from the top from the 'main' lookout. Scramble along a narrow ledge in from the right. Rap down from a rusted chain to a hanging belay off manky chain. May have once been worthwhile after extensive cleaning but these days it is a sea of black and green lichen and the bolts are heavily rusted. Rightward trending black slab with 2 FHs and two pathetic miniature rusted unwelded ringbolts. The top section looks impossible - unless there is some sort of secret hold under the lichen??

This steep rightward leaning corner system looks grade 16, was originally graded 19 and is now considered at least 22 after several prominent failures. Despite the sandbaggery it's the best line of the cliff and has a very baffling pumpy bulgy section in the middle. Starts 5m left of NF, below the prominent corner, just before small overhanging section at about waist height. Look for shiny unreccessed ringbolts (don't worry - they are bomber). Stick-clip first bolt then stem up corner to ledge. Layback, grunt and swear up the bulgy bit to next ledge. Up monster jugs to the roof then finish with an airy traverse left to lower-off bolts. In the ye olde days there was a second pitch up the 7m dirty arete. Looks for rusty BRs.

A bonus long pumpy traverse finish to Interior Castle. Up that route to the top of the corner under the big roof, take a breath, then launch rightwards along break. It's easy at first but the further right it gets slopier, steeper and with less feet. Anchor at far right end of roof. Either back-clean or get someone to second.

Located at far left hand end of main wall at left end of major roofs. Stick clip first RB on lip of roof, balance onto cairns on rock ledge, boulder over lip and up rightwards on juggier face to DRB anchor. The original route went up for another couple of bolts up the dirty black slab. This route tends to seep heavily during the wetter months.

Great steep climbing which stays dry in almost any weather. Straightened out and easier version of Forever is Hard To Imagine. Two u-bolts up face to ledge. Swing left across horizontal then up juggy steep stuff to final roof move to clip anchor on lip.

As per 'Covid Corner', but traverse across the ledge to the ironing board hold, thru the mini roof and up to anchors. Extend draws as required and get someone to 2nd to clean.

A fun warmup with 4 different styles in one. Punchy start leads to mantle, slab and then mini roof.

As per 'Lovin' Lockdown', but don't clip the anchors, lean over and clip random bolt in the middle of the wall and carefully ride ramp over to 'CC' anchors.

Another easy route at the crag. 5m left of Fusions, Tricky start over little overlap then up featured seam crack to break. Finish straight up to double U bolt anchor under roof.

A short but fun route with a short but punchy roof finish.

Climb LinkedIn and go straight up to the crux of Lovin' Lockdown to get full value from this line. You can run out the easy middle section or extend the draw to reduce drag. Feel free to point out if this link-up's already been climbed!

Fun little bouldery route. 3 bolts to lower off, or link into ‘Gargamel’

Easiest route at the crag (that doesn't involve a rap in). A fun route up a waterwashed groove and juggy roof. Starts 50m left of Yo! Don Bosco, starting on higher terrace just right of small tree growing against rock.

Start up 'Lovin' Lockdown' for 3 bolts then left up to corner crack.

Super fun, up and veer rightwards to rooflet and crack above.

Start up 'Lovin Lockdown' for 3 bolts then veer right, and up to Gargamel's nose. Get someone to second to clean, alternatively top out and belay off carrots.

Right to left traverse of the awesome horizontal break starting at the base of Fission Trip. A good little pump.

From belay ledge DBB climb short corner (cams) then up juggy face and slab above (rusty BR).

up nose to BRs

Start: as for PRT