Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Climber | Date | |||
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V9 | |||||||||
V9 | American Invasion #1 | Magnetic Island | Sat 2nd Jul 2022 | ||||||
Hard.
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V7 V9 | American Invasion #1 - with Christopher Glastonbury | Magnetic Island | Average | Tue 18th Oct 2022 | |||||
Who knows what the FA did but ignored the megajugs and went straight up. On the crack and then some crimps.
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V7 | |||||||||
V7 | ★★★ Coconut (s) | Magnetic Island | ★★ Very Good | Fri 6th Jul 2007 | |||||
A tree trunk like feature. Very technical.
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V7 | ★★ Quart de Siècle (Quart de Siecle) | 4m | Magnetic Island | ★★ Very Good | Tue 18th Oct 2022 | ||||
Salty beach blocs. Not sure if the sit start has been done but would likely add a grade (~8?) Stand felt about 7.
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27 | |||||||||
27 | ★★★ Brudl | 9m | Magnetic Island | ★★ Very Good | Thu 27th Aug 2015 | ||||
Great climbing, but again coarse rock. Big powerful moves down low then off fingers and ring locks that are all the more desperate because you are way too pumped for 1/2 way up a micro route. It's really, really steep.
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27 | ★★★ Brudl - with elsie | 9m | Magnetic Island | ★★★ Classic | Mon 29th Jun 2020 | ||||
Pretty happy with it doing it on the 3rd tie in, rough moves but oh so glorious. I've done more routes than boulders on this island. Used upto size 1BD cam.
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V6 | |||||||||
V6 | ★★ Reeven | Magnetic Island | ★★ Very Good | Sat 15th Sep 2007 | |||||
second go. some tiny monos and smeary feet. prity high too. making the slopes on top exciting.
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V6 | ★★ Reeven | Magnetic Island | ★★★ Classic | Sat 2nd Aug 2008 | |||||
great climbing and position! V4/5?
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V6 | ★★ Reeven | Magnetic Island | ★★ Very Good | Sun 24th Sep 2017 | |||||
Had to use chalk on this one
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V6 | ★★ A Whaley Good Time | Magnetic Island | Tue 15th Dec 2020 | ||||||
With the amount of sand on the beach ATM, you can step onto the topout
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V4 V6 | ★★ Reeven | Magnetic Island | Tue 22nd Jun 2021 | ||||||
No dyno I could see.
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V6 | ★★ Island dream | Magnetic Island | ★★ Very Good | Mon 16th May 2022 | |||||
Really good, but I couldn't.
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V6 | ★★★ Whale traverse | 5m | Magnetic Island | ★★★ Classic | Sat 9th Jul 2022 | ||||
Got halfway across maybe. Exceptionally delicate slab, just balancing on very slopey feet. At halfway they sort of run out - might have needed to go higher there. Wish it wasn't so far away so I could hop on again.
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V6 | ★★★ Whale traverse | 5m | Magnetic Island | Tue 5th Jul 2022 | |||||
first 4 feet felt horrible and they were only getting worse
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V6 ~V5 | ★★ Reeven — 3 attempts - with UQMC | Magnetic Island | Wed 5th Jul 2023 | ||||||
perhaps easier if you can reach the top without a dyno
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V6 | ★★ Reeven — 9 attempts | Magnetic Island | ★★★ Classic | Fri 18th Aug 2023 | |||||
Great delicate movement, will need to come back after slapping the top hold 3 or 4 times but not sticking.
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V6 ~V4 | ★★ Reeven | Magnetic Island | Sun 1st Oct 2023 | ||||||
Can do the "dyno" statically by pressing with a single finger of each hand off the right hand pocket and the far edge of the left hand slope. Stand up on high right foot. Much easier than V6 with this beta. Fun and commiting
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V6 | ★★★ Selective Disclosure - with Steven Ioannou, Jarrah, Kat | 7m | Magnetic Island | ★★★ Classic | Sat 10th Feb 2024 | ||||
I'd say the crux is around a v5/6 at harveys marbles so 26 seems right as it's so short, think a boulder grade would be more suited. Sharp rock on skin! Rad spot. Totally potential for a hard direct line out from the roof!
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V5/6 | |||||||||
V4 V5/6 | The Beast In The Boulder | 6m | Magnetic Island | Sat 11th Aug 2018 | |||||
High ball. Need to work out beta for the very top.
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V5 | |||||||||
V5 | ★★ Cyclops (s) (Cyclops (Sit start (s)) | Magnetic Island | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 6th Jul 2007 | |||||
A great move of sloper to the eye of the cyclops
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V5 | ★★ Parliment of Funk | Magnetic Island | ★★ Very Good | Wed 24th May 2017 | |||||
Didn't read the description properly, battled through, ruined my knee and thought i had flashed V5. I didnt start sitting, did I! Big thumbs up to the FA!
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V5 | ★★★ Reverie - with Caleb | 5m | Magnetic Island | ★★ Very Good | Thu 16th Jan 2020 | ||||
got all the moves, cold feet at the top out.
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V5 | ★★★ Reverie | 5m | Magnetic Island | ★★★ Classic | Thu 24th Jun 2021 | ||||
Awesome problem, but I spent so long figuring out the beta for the start I didn't have any finger strength left for the send.
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V5 | ★★★ Reverie | 5m | Magnetic Island | ★★★ Classic | Fri 25th Jun 2021 | ||||
Not this time
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V5 | ★★★ Reverie | 5m | Magnetic Island | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 12th Jan 2022 | ||||
Incredible problem. Felt impossible on the first session but lots of small beta tweaks helps so much.
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V3 V5 | Possible | 4m | Magnetic Island | Average | Wed 6th Apr 2022 | ||||
V3 from a sit start. Crimps to sidepull to pinch to easy mantle. Avoiding jugs of thrice.
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V5 | ★★ Sand Beast | 3m | Magnetic Island | ★★ Very Good | Mon 16th May 2022 | ||||
Looks cool, but really needs a spotter.
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V5 | ★★ Rock Monster | Magnetic Island | ★ Good | Mon 16th May 2022 | |||||
Drop several grades if you can jam.. but there was a moment I thought I was gone.
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V5 | ★★★ Reverie | 5m | Magnetic Island | ★★★ Classic | Sat 2nd Jul 2022 | ||||
Sick! First climb on Maggie. Five man send train :0
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V5 | ★★★ Reverie | 5m | Magnetic Island | ★★★ Classic | Sat 2nd Jul 2022 | ||||
Super fun line. x3 I think.
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V5 | ★★★ Reverie | 5m | Magnetic Island | ★★ Very Good | Tue 5th Jul 2022 | ||||
few variant starts, nice to get the sit start
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V5 | ★★★ Reverie | 5m | Magnetic Island | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 23rd Jul 2022 | ||||
Wow, the slopers are (unsurprisingly) better in winter. Absolute banger.
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V5 | ★★★ Reverie | 5m | Magnetic Island | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 4th Sep 2022 | ||||
Really good! First v5, starts probably soft if you're tall. I dry fired throwing for the finish jug and fell on my ass on the sand but survived unscathed.
Be careful on the downclimb to the side it's really crumbly |
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V5 | ★★ A Little Fervour | 6m | Magnetic Island | ★★ Very Good | Thu 13th Oct 2022 | ||||
Not here in ideal conditions and should have brought tape for this gnarley sharp granite. Feels like a sweet climb though
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V5 | ★★★ Reverie | 5m | Magnetic Island | ★★★ Classic | Tue 18th Oct 2022 | ||||
An island classic and a quality boulder anywhere you'd find it.
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V5 | ★★★ Reverie - with UQMC | 5m | Magnetic Island | ★★ Very Good | Tue 4th Jul 2023 | ||||
variant beta from a year ago, i think, throwing to right side pull
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V5 | ★★★ Reverie - with Rebecca Trigger | 5m | Magnetic Island | ★★★ Classic | Mon 24th Jul 2023 | ||||
I sure came a long way to try this boulder again and leave empty handed
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V5 | ★★★ Reverie — 7 attempts | 5m | Magnetic Island | ★★★ Classic | Fri 18th Aug 2023 | ||||
Pretty rad, first V5
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V5 | ★★★ Reverie | 5m | Magnetic Island | Sat 19th Aug 2023 | |||||
In hindsight I should've embraced the nudist beach and gone for the double flash. Will look for opportunities in the future.
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V5 | ★★★ Reverie | 5m | Magnetic Island | Sun 1st Oct 2023 | |||||
3 stars. Did the right hand variant too which was also good fun
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V5 | ★★ Rock Monster — 9 attempts | Magnetic Island | ★★★ Classic | Mon 15th Apr 2024 | |||||
Great problem, in a wonderful location. Dialed in all moves, and punched through first 4, but a bit wary about one pad and no spotter. Hope to return and post a send.
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V4 | |||||||||
V4 | ★ DIngo Dyno | Magnetic Island | ★ Good | Fri 6th Jul 2007 | |||||
in middle of boulder bad landing. Big move.
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V4 | ★★ A dingo Ate your Baby | 5m | Magnetic Island | ★★★ Classic | Wed 24th May 2017 | ||||
Great problem! Don't know about V4 though, perhaps V3? The balancy section was very exciting as first climb of the day.
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V4 | ★ Jump start | 3m | Magnetic Island | Average | Wed 24th May 2017 | ||||
Unfair tall advantage
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V2 V4 | ★ Humpback Breach (Shelf Mantle) | 3m | Magnetic Island | ★ Good | Wed 24th May 2017 | ||||
It wasn't graceful..
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V4 | ★★ Underworld | Magnetic Island | ★★ Very Good | Wed 24th May 2017 | |||||
Took a while to get work this one out, fell and smashed my phone on one attempt.
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V4 | ★★ Too close for comfort | 5m | Magnetic Island | ★ Good | Sun 18th Feb 2018 | ||||
funky
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V4 | ★★ The Tasmanian Giant Crab Walk - with Marek Brock-Tasler | 3m | Magnetic Island | ★★ Very Good | Sun 1st Apr 2018 | ||||
Awkward top out!
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V3 V4 | ★★ A dingo Ate your Baby | 5m | Magnetic Island | ★★★ Classic | Mon 9th Jul 2018 | ||||
Great climb but not a V4 in my opinion. Awesome scenery and easy access make the climbs even more enjoyable
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V4 | ★★ Mission Impossumable | 6m | Magnetic Island | Sat 11th Aug 2018 | |||||
Got the beta, just need to grow some balls... scary high with a tree in the way. I don't want to hurt myself.
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V4 | FA ★★ Scroggible - with caleb | 3m | Magnetic Island | ★★ Very Good | Thu 16th Jan 2020 | ||||
FFA. Super stoked on this! Thanks caleb for solving this problem with me!
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V4 | ★ Muy Bueno - with TiniestFury | 4m | Magnetic Island | Thu 23rd Jul 2020 | |||||
really fun traverse
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V4 | ★ Muy Bueno | 4m | Magnetic Island | Fri 4th Dec 2020 | |||||
seemed a bit contrived to start halfway through the wall, i think linking crimpy traverse would be cooler.
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V3 V4 | ★★ A dingo Ate your Baby | 5m | Magnetic Island | ★ Good | Fri 14th Jan 2022 | ||||
Fun, but pretty choss on the top half! Agreed with others that feels more like V3
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V4 | ★★ Use Both Hands, Climb Slowly | 4m | Magnetic Island | ★★ Very Good | Tue 25th Jan 2022 | ||||
Very precise climbing in a unique location.
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V4 | ★★ The Tasmanian Giant Crab Walk | 3m | Magnetic Island | ★★★ Classic | Mon 28th Feb 2022 | ||||
Classic. So many different possible betas, pretty sure you could make a figure 4 or a bat-hang go if you were so inclined/strong enough. Took a lot of micro beta tweaks to get the send as it was right on my limit. Also recommend max tide of 2.0m, as after that the lower shelf starts to be wet.
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V4 | ★★ A dingo Ate your Baby | 5m | Magnetic Island | Sun 3rd Jul 2022 | |||||
Dripping wet. Looks like a fun one
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V4 | Flaker | 6m | Magnetic Island | Sun 3rd Jul 2022 | |||||
Spooked
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V4 | ★ Cheese grater | 5m | Magnetic Island | Tue 5th Jul 2022 | |||||
Super fun. A little spicy trusting the feet at the top
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V4 | ★ Cheese grater | 5m | Magnetic Island | Sat 2nd Jul 2022 | |||||
Soft.
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V4 | ★★ Scroggible | 3m | Magnetic Island | Sat 2nd Jul 2022 | |||||
Pooped at the end of the day.
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V4 | Flaker | 6m | Magnetic Island | Tue 5th Jul 2022 | |||||
Spicy.
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V4 | Flaker | 6m | Magnetic Island | Tue 5th Jul 2022 | |||||
wasnt prepared to do the mantle
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V4 | ★ Jump start | 3m | Magnetic Island | Tue 5th Jul 2022 | |||||
used the boulder on the left for feet didnt jump start
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V2 V4 | ★ Cheese grater | 5m | Magnetic Island | ★ Good | Sun 24th Jul 2022 | ||||
I would say v2-v3. Or maybe I didn’t started it the "right way”… Not sure. Let me know. 🙂
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V4 | ★ Cheese grater | 5m | Magnetic Island | ★★ Very Good | Sun 4th Sep 2022 | ||||
Scary without a crash pad
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V4 | ★★ Scroggible | 3m | Magnetic Island | ★★★ Classic | Sun 4th Sep 2022 | ||||
Awesome moves
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V4 | ★★ Sandy Pants | 4m | Magnetic Island | ★★ Very Good | Thu 13th Oct 2022 | ||||
Pretty nice start. Movements feel cool
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V3 V4 | ★ Muy Bueno | 4m | Magnetic Island | Thu 13th Oct 2022 | |||||
Gave it a v3 because it's not as technical as Sandy Pants. Cool little traverse though
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V4 | ★★ Kraken awakes | Magnetic Island | Don't Bother | Thu 20th Oct 2022 | |||||
Rubbish
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V4 | ★★ A dingo Ate your Baby | 5m | Magnetic Island | ★★ Very Good | Tue 27th Jun 2023 | ||||
Stand start
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V4 | ★ Muy Bueno — 4 attempts | 4m | Magnetic Island | ★ Good | Sun 9th Jul 2023 | ||||
Fun
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V4 | ★ Cheese grater | 5m | Magnetic Island | Thu 24th Aug 2023 | |||||
Tricky to start. Mantle is scary
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V4 | ★★ Scroggible | 3m | Magnetic Island | Thu 24th Aug 2023 | |||||
Hard start. Would go with some work
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V4 | ★ Jump start — 4 attempts | 3m | Magnetic Island | ★ Good | Mon 28th Aug 2023 | ||||
Fun big jump, no pad stack
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V4 | ★★ Mighty Eagle | Magnetic Island | Mon 25th Sep 2023 | ||||||
Attempted at high tide with moat of water at base, got two-thirds up then chickened out for fear of slipping in wet shoes
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23 - 25 | |||||||||
23 23 - 25 | Warthog's Backside (Jodie's Project) - with Jodie Rummer | 12m, 2 | Magnetic Island | Sun 12th Aug 2018 | |||||
Had a quick run on Jodie's project. A difficult start (without the tree) to a razor sharp crimpy crux.
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23 | |||||||||
23 | ★★ Curlew - with Bryan Beattie | 16m | Magnetic Island | ★★ Very Good | Mon 8th Aug 2011 | ||||
Didnt quite make it stuck at the crux
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23 | ★★ Curlew | 16m | Magnetic Island | ★★ Very Good | Thu 27th Aug 2015 | ||||
Climbing is very good if you can tolerate the rather harsh granite. Steep, sustained locks to a crux high on the route when you are more pumped than you think you should be on a route this short.
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21 23 | ★★ Crimson Tide - with Katie | 10m | Magnetic Island | ★★ Very Good | Sun 6th Nov 2022 | ||||
Great climb but it seemed quite a lot easier than grade 23. The crack takes good gear the whole way (0.3 to 0.75 BD cams plus small nuts).
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V3/4 | |||||||||
V3 V3/4 | ★★ Slapperdie Slab | 7m | Magnetic Island | ★★ Very Good | Sat 2nd Jul 2022 | ||||
Bitta spice both going up and getting back to the ground
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V3 V3/4 | ★★ Slapperdie Slab | 7m | Magnetic Island | Tue 5th Jul 2022 | |||||
would have been a lot harder with a smaller reach
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V3 | |||||||||
V3 | ★★ Butterfly traversre | Magnetic Island | ★ Good | Fri 6th Jul 2007 | |||||
a great traverse R) across the boulders lip
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V3 | ★★★ Butterfly (s) | Magnetic Island | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 6th Jul 2007 | |||||
A cool mantle after a jugs roof move.
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V3 | ★★ Tang | Magnetic Island | Tue 23rd May 2017 | ||||||
Bung knee and scared to commit.
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V3 | ★ Funky meniscus | 2m | Magnetic Island | ★ Good | Mon 22nd May 2017 | ||||
A bloody battle.
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V3 | Low Picnic | 5m | Magnetic Island | Tue 25th Jan 2022 | |||||
Too tired to get my feet sorted.
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V3 | ★ Nach mir die Sintflut | 3m | Magnetic Island | ★ Good | Tue 17th May 2022 | ||||
Pretty sure I was on the same line but went up using the side pulls on the left.
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V3 | ★ Crocodile roll | Magnetic Island | ★ Good | Wed 18th May 2022 | |||||
A hold on the rail came off on my send, added some excitement.
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V3 | ★ Nach mir die Sintflut | 3m | Magnetic Island | ★ Good | Thu 13th Jul 2023 | ||||
Running start
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V3 | ★ Mangroves Traverse — 3 attempts | 5m | Magnetic Island | ★ Good | Mon 25th Sep 2023 | ||||
Fun
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22 | |||||||||
22 | ★★★ Nature's Finest | 15m | Magnetic Island | ★★★ Classic | Wed 6th Jul 2022 | ||||
Dragged an unbreakfasted yim and igor out to have a run at this on the final morning at maggie. Been eyeing it off all trip while deferring to weird chimney boulders nearby with the boys. Glad to get on this line. Presents great jamming challenges. Many sits for both of us but a good experience and nice to get beat up before the barge.
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V2 | |||||||||
V2 | ★ Crimpy face | 7m | Magnetic Island | ★ Good | Wed 12th Apr 2006 | ||||
watch the rock on some of these!
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V2 | ★★ Mantle | 3m | Magnetic Island | ★ Good | Sat 8th Sep 2007 | ||||
The first problem you come too. the impossibly sloppy looking mantle on end of boulder.
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V2 | ★★ Mantle | 3m | Magnetic Island | ★★ Very Good | Sun 11th Jan 2009 | ||||
Nice and balancy to mono
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V0 V2 | ★★ Wholly Molly | 3m | Magnetic Island | ★ Good | Wed 24th May 2017 | ||||
Funky features
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V2 | ★★ The Whale Rail | 4m | Magnetic Island | ★★ Very Good | Wed 24th May 2017 | ||||
Quite tricky footwork, fun problem!
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V2 | ★ Born slippy | 4m | Magnetic Island | ★ Good | Mon 22nd May 2017 | ||||
Tall git start?
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V2 | ★★ Nudie rudie | 2m | Magnetic Island | ★ Good | Wed 24th May 2017 | ||||
Fun
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V2 | Common Sense (Name please?) | 5m | Magnetic Island | Mon 9th Jul 2018 | |||||
Didnt get the feet right the first time so i couldnt get the onsight. Great climb overall! Theres a super easy climb around the back great for beginners
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