Routes in North East

Traverse from left to right along the main retaining wall. Maybe a V2. Pumpy.

Lovely warmup before getting on the traverse. About as easy as Mount Ninny North.

Avoid the cobwebs. Sit start. Flagpole is out.

start on the right, go left under the roof, up to the ledge and then climb to the top.

up from the right to the ledge and then to the top.

up the arete, top rope or trad with very few placements on the first section

Up to the big block sticking out of the boulder and then top out.

up the obvious diagonal crack to top out.

start on the left cracked wall and finish same as big cams and stuff

Compact sit start, laybacking to the left with hands using the 45deg crack line. Head up working the cracks and left side of the little face. Topout with a walk off to your left.

Follow the ramp and corner up to the right. Can have a wet section 2-3 days after rain.

The high line. Can have a wet section 2-3 days after rain.

Link up: traverse as for Fing Ringer to the inverted-triangle notch, then up the edges on Big Moose.

Follow crack line from right to left, topping out the same for "Ape Index". A great challenge for the foot work

Pretty much straight up to the higher top out through the middle of Fing Ringer.

Go straight up on the furthest right wall.

traverse from the furthest right part of blackberry wall to the tree about 7m left.

Sit start, directly up from the small cave

traverse right and up a bit from the slightly bigger cave

Sitting start under cave lookers right of sunshine wall. Traverse along rim of cave

Either traverse right from TR 2 or use a more powerful direct start, this route follows the system of cracks that heads up to finish at bolts to the right of the regrowing tree stump. Gear is adequate though rock quality is poor so discretion should be exercised when choosing placements.

Start 2m right of TR 2, at the section of the cave underneath a decent vertical crack line. Boulder through the reachy start, past the vertical crack and head up, finishing at bolts to the LEFT of the regrowing tree stump

CAUTION - Lots of loose rocks and chossy spots especially at the top

Start 1m to the right of TR 1 in between the vertical crack lines. Head straight up, finishing on anchors to the right of the protruding block. Previously a TR problem, now bolted.

Start 1m right of Lion Heart and head straight up to finish at the U bolt anchors in the middle of the protruding block

Still in development

Line of bolts starting right of boulder. Shared lower offs with "My Brother In Chalk".

Climb the start of My Brother in Chalk and clip the 3rd bolt with a long runner, then traverse right to join Lion Heart. An interesting traverse and makes slightly more sustained climbing.

Line of bolts left of boulder. Shared lower offs with "Lion Heart".

Start the same as Leaping Lizards but after the 3rd hanger head into the gully, clipping the 5th and 6th hangers from MBIC. After this stem till you top out at the tree

There are future plans to better define the end of this route with it's own hangers.

Solid start, then a cruzy middle to a committing finish

Start 1m right of Stoneage Surgery following bolts straight up through a committing transition to the block. Finish at two FH's on right hand side.

Start under sharp triangular break. Utilise the horizontal crack (watch for lizards) and climb up using some funky moves and 2 fixed hangers til you reach a vertical crack starting at the chockstone. Finish at two fixed hangers left of the crack

The pure trad start to Stoneage Surgery. Start 2m left of SS using the obvious large dog-leg crack. Climb up onto ledge, traversing right to join SS at the chockstone. Finish as per SS

Nice kiddie climb with a good sense of exposure.

Start same as Moss Monster. Once onto middle ledge following the right side of the slab and then curve back to the anchors

For now use the same anchors as Moss Monster and in the future this climb may have it's own anchors

Can be used for Abseiling.

Fun little kiddie climb sticking to the left of the Slab. Use double U-bolts set back from the edge.

Can be used as a Abseil

Up iced gully for a single pitch of M4, followed by easier climbing to the top.

Long moves on sharp crimps to small rail and good feet.

Keeps the balancy start of Winky Pops, then up through delicate territory just left of and above the seam.

Lovely balancy sequence to easy top out jugs of W.T.O.S.M.T.N.V on the left.

Up to the beautiful top out jug on good edges.

Sit matching on the ledge and up you go!

Start at the big ledge and step on up to a comfy stance.

Stand start at the big scoop.

On the backside of the boulder. High balancy step to start, then eases off quickly.

Just before the first abseil down little River Gorge there is an obvious corner crack on the south side of the river. Climb the crack until reaching the first ledge. Traverse right and up the smaller crack leading to the second ledge. Again, climb the line to the right, then perform an interesting traverse to the left to top out.

There is potential for climbing the exciting looking direct crack sticking to the left but you may want doubles of mid sized cams for protection.

Walk-off is possible scrambling up to the top of the ridge, traversing right, and descending the correct gullies. Recommend checking it out from the opposite upstream bank before ascending.

Starts immediately L of a large corner that peters out at half height.

1. 15m. Up via breaks to the largest juggy line which is followed L to below a short corner. Up this to tree belay.

2. 25m (crux). Continue up corner moving L onto arete. An exciting move up and R to a hanging flake. Up.

The RH crack.

The arete L of Constant Fear. Start down R. Up and onto arete. Up clipping to bolt of CF. L under bulge finishing up Nu Root.

On Pyramid 1. The easy angled face L of Constant Fear below left end of small roof. Up to roof. traverse R to jugs. Up to crack stepping L under bulge then up.

Straight up face, over roof to top.

Climb the nice flake.