Ascents in Warrumbungles as Clean

We started on this route and followed a superb line through to a logical conclusion in 5 pitches, but it bears no resemblance to the description after pitch 2. The body chimney of pitch 1 has around 10 m+ of unprotected climbing unless you take a big bro. Nice lead by Dave. P2 seemed to follow description. Then I linked 3 +4 starting into a beautiful left facing flake and going up ribs in 60 m. Never found a chockstone. Our Pitch 5 went up a left facing corner for 15 m, then traversed airily right for another 20m before an easy scramble and then walk to top. Descended sw gully.Generally good rock, a bit lichenous due to lack of traffic. Only 4 other people been here since our last ascent in July. 5 climbers on summit today.

Superb - a big day out!

P1 only. Jimbo led. Too cold. Unfinished business. Trad.

Never been so intimidated by a climb before in my life but we did it! Stayed at Dow's Camp overnight and sussed out the approach beforehand for efficiency's sake. Needn't have worried though, the climber's track from camp is well-marked with cairns and easy to follow. Ended up being a great day out in a phenomenal location, although the climbing didn't quite live up to mega-classic expectations. Done with 50m doubles but would probably recommend 60m to allow for any accidental off-route wanderings. Started at sunrise, when the cliff was drenched in gorgeous orange light.

P1 - Assuming we did start in the right place (weren't 100% sure, despite the description), this was nothing to write home about and a bit vegetated too. The tat is just visible from the ground, with an obvious stance to belay just above it.

P2 - Second and definitely a highlight, some quality moves through the corner systems. Solid for 18 but still easily manageable.

P3 - As awkward as expected for a sideways abseil. If using 50m ropes, you'll want to set up the anchor as soon as you reach the base of the wing, otherwise you potentially won't reach the next belay. Used the rap rope in the anchor as previously recommended.

P4 - Another highlight. Climbing wasn't quite as good as hoped for, but the position was absolutely crazy and the orange wing is just spectacular. Bit of a rope stretcher but just made it.

P5 - Second. Surprisingly nice! Rock quality and gear were both good.

P6 and 7 - Fairly average and unremarkable, following a clear groove.

P8 - As easy as promised thankfully, only placed 3 bits of gear. Lovely view from the very top belay!

All up, about 9 hours camp to camp. Route finding was pretty straightforward if you knew what you were looking for; we took a double rack of BD 0.3-3 plus a 4 and lots of wires which was easily enough. Psyched to have done this!

The direct start is kinda goey considering the shortage of gear. Did the moves fine but wouldn’t have wanted to by stopping to place anything.

Lead by Angie. A beautiful corner climb and goey toward the top.

Extremely hard to find the base of the climb (took us about 2 hours) so didn't start climbing until about 11am but thankfully still managed to top out before sunset. Pitch 4 out on the wing was definitely the money pitch. Brilliant day out!!

Looooong route! especially when you're a beginner and have to second evey pitch. Got quickly used to changing the belay over.

Climb was a dirty moss and sand shower at the high crux. Colin dislodged large rocks while going over the top and setting up an anchor so we cleared the kids well out of harms way until we finished up. Despite this it was a good climb with a great variety of moves.

followed Simon

Spectacular line! A great adventure.

Got mixed up between the Fish-knife and the Butter-knife, so we ended up here and climbed this. It was great! Excellent rock, good moves, adequate gear.

A lovely climb to finish our day. I even managed my first Gaston.

only pitch 1+2. we simul climbed. much easier route to find compared to 'flight of the phoenix'.

sadly had to bail due to rain such a shame as it was really enjoyable. I'll have to go back.

Absolutely amazing climb for many reasons. We solo'd the first two pitches. Roped up for the third. Crux pitch was super fun, extra long alpine draws would help reduce the drag if you're with a single rope. We were slow but made it to the top at sunset to enjoy the view for a minute before rushing down.

We scrambled down until we found the tree with two water jugs and a D shackle attached. First mandatory abseil was 30m past the tree on the left wall before the drop off. Then follow path along the wall until you can scramble down and find the Cairns leading the way through the narrow gully. Descent was just as fun as the climb.

Super cool, definitely a classic, soloed P1, simul-seconded from there to the top. Each pitch was unique. Read the approach section for crater bluff to make the day go a lot smoother (eg. Approach from Dagda Saddle, follows faint trail down to the creek), made for a very memorable day having to bush bash in, but wouldn’t recommend. The rap out was very cool but we spent a lot of time untangling ropes.

My 3rd multi pitch climb ever - first without a guide. Awesome climbing, some gripping moments - mostly whilst waiting to here "safe" from my partner. Super Windy but even though that made it cold and hard to hear each other, preferred over getting pelted by the sun all day.