Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | Crag | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Boulder | |||||
V2 | ★★ Arete by left hand side
Arete between Intrepid and Golden Years. Very good boulder problem. | 5m | Mount Keira | ||
21 | ★★ Grim Death
BOULDER PROBLEM. Follows the thin crack in the first section of the West Face. Follow the crack till it runs out then layback to glory! (don't pike right). FA: Jon Muir | 5m | Mount Keira | ||
V8 | ★★ Dr Cameltoe
Dyno - grab jug rail at head height, smear feet and launch for hueco, top out. Maybe a bit harder for people under 6ft. Essentially climbs the wall left of GD without using the obvious holds on the routes either side. FFA: Graeme Hill & Muir Prehn FA: Johan Szabo, 2006 | 4m | Mount Keira | ||
V5 | ★★ Nitro Wall Leftside
Sit start on the arete. Up the lip to top out same as the next problem. FA: Steve Bullen | 3m | Mount Keira | ||
V9 | ★★ Double Blower
Goes straight up the middle of the overhanging wall and tops out. Tough mantle. Sit start, from big hueco/pocket, move up the face to the lip, mantle and top out. The key is doing a pop move from the pocket/crimp to the side pull and get a toe cam in the big hueco.Spotter advised for topping as a fall from here will see you tumble down the hill. FA: Steve Bullen | 4m | Mount Keira | ||
V11 | ★★★ Redline
As seen on "Comin At Ya Hyper" - climbing vid of the late 90's. Sit start from LH finger pocket/crimp and RH pocket, move right via small pockets (chipped) up the face/arete until you gain to micro crimps, feet up and funky mantle. Fingers of steel required! FA: Steve Bullen | 5m | Mount Keira | ||
V5 | ★★ Untitled Route
Sit start from big hueco/mega pocket, move left and up, top out. FA: Steve Bullen, 2000 | 3m | Mount Keira | ||
V2 | ★★ Sinn Fein
Starting on the deep pocket just left of the right-arete, embark on a long traverse through a variety of cool crimps, slots and jugs before topping out with big moves on jugs at the far left end of the bloc. (this can be climbed as a line in its own right, The Altar of Lamentation, v0) Although this is an obvious problem on an obvious section of rock, no information was recorded. The FA details are lost to the stoneage climbers who never bothered to tell anyone. FA: Unknown | 3m | Mount Keira | ||
V3 | ★ Caffeination Fixation
Head up the major descent gully before Nitro Wall area (heading north). At the path at the top of the gully head left for about 15 metres, you should find yourself on top of a wide, orange-streaked bloc. Head around to the left of that bloc to get to the bottom of it. On the holds right of Sinn Fein Sit start right of the arete on jug slot and small left-hand crimp. Power through some big moves on crimps trending right before a difficult mantle on slopers and delicate top-out. Note: the starting left hand crimp has been lost to a fat boulderer. The start must use either the higher better left hand sidepull (easier) or go without a left handhold and use the original right hand (much harder). FA: Brett Heino, 2012 | 3m | Mount Keira | ||
V5 | ★★ Brighton Hotel
The problem follows the righthand side of the arete from a sit start to a highball topout. Sit start with your feet in the large hueco at ground level, hands on the positive edge. Make your way up the righthand side of the arete to the airy scary launch for the lip. Practising the moves on top rope is possible using the carrots handily placed right on the top. FA: Oliver Kerr & Brett Heino, 2012 | 5m | Mount Keira | ||
V3 | ★ 1
Stand start on crimp rail, up and left to sidepull then top. | 3m | Mount Keira | ||
V4 | ★ 2
Stand start on crimps, straight up the wall left of the flake. | 4m | Mount Keira | ||
V1 | ★ 3
Stand start on the flake, head straight up without using any of the chips/cuttings. | 4m | Mount Keira | ||
V2 | ★ 4
The right arete from a crouch. | 4m | Mount Keira | ||
V2 | ★ Pull-kun
Start of the 'Middle Boulder' Start low, go for the lower ledge, then use the arete for pulling up. FA: Murray, 10 Dec 2017 | 3m | Mount Keira | ||
V8 | ★★★ Infinity Wars
Start low at Pull-kun, traverse left into Pullman, then join into Hail to the crimp. FA: Mark McGivern | 4m | Mount Keira | ||
V3 | ★ Pullman
Start left hand at the small picket then follow up for some solid pulling action. FA: Murray, 10 Dec 2017 | 4m | Mount Keira | ||
V4 | ★ Hail to the crimp
Start left hand at the side pull inside of the circle feature and right hand on the undercrimp, then straight to the crimp crack, follow crimp crack to the left and top out. Besides the starting undercrimp, the holds on and to the right of the large flake feature that runs up the Boulder are eliminated. | 4m | Mount Keira | ||
V4 | ★ Undercrimp
Start around the undercrimp, move up to a couple more small holds, then up to the ledge to top out. FA: Murray, 10 Dec 2017 | 4m | Mount Keira | ||
V2 | ★ Pull-chan
Pull the arete, with right hand crimps, don't use the rock pile. FA: Murray, 10 Dec 2017 | 3m | Mount Keira | ||
V1 | ★ Echo Corner
Up the easier side of the arete to top out FA: Murray, 10 Dec 2017 | 3m | Mount Keira | ||
V2 | Derailleur
Around the backside of the 'Middle Boulder' Start left hand low on the arete and right hand on the crimp rail. Follow the crimp rail along and around without using the top ledge. Adjust difficulty as required with your feet. FA: Murray, 10 Dec 2017 | 2m | Mount Keira | ||
V1 | Headstone
At the 'West Boulder' Up to the lip then follow the ledge right then up. Mind the tree! FA: Murray, 10 Dec 2017 | 2m | Mount Keira | ||
V2 | Poxy Knoxy
Start at the lowest pocket crimps, straight up and out. FA: Murray, 10 Dec 2017 | 2m | Mount Keira | ||
V2 | Foxy Knoxy
Start lower pockets and head up leftwards and out. FA: Murray, 10 Dec 2017 | 2m | Mount Keira | ||
V4 | ★ I dunno man...
Pretty sketchy as you will find out from what is left on the ground. Start both hands on the broken ledge, with careful balance reach up to a small right, then big left and up to the ledge. Very sketchy top out. FA: Murray, 25 Jan 2017 | 2m | Mount Keira | ||
V3 | ★ Machinations
Start low on the ledge, shift up the ledge. There are two ways to go from here, either straight up with your left, or sweet undercling crimp to balance then up with your right. Top out is difficult. FA: Murray, 25 Jan 2017 | 2m | Mount Keira | ||
V3 | ★ Erupt
Start right hand on the undercrimp. Delicate moves up to the right then grab the solid ledge and go for a powerful and fun dynamic move to the top ledge. FA: Murray, 25 Jan 2017 | 2m | Mount Keira | ||
V4 | Zatoichi
Start both hands on the side arete. Carefully shuffle up and along the arete. High heel hook and a scramble ensures to finish it off. FA: Murray, 25 Jan 2017 | 2m | Mount Keira | ||
V4 | ★ The Green Man
Needs a lot of cleaning *Updated description: since no one has described the route, I'll offer the following: start on low crimpy underclings. Move up to left hand press, then up to sloper, or skip the press and dyno to sloper. A high foot assists with a tricky mantle. | 2m | Mount Keira | ||
The Green Prince
Super low loose big undercling. What could go wrong? Needs cleaning. | Mount Keira | ||||
Breach
Further still around. Nice slight ramp with delicate features. Don't use the chimney. | 3m | Mount Keira | |||
V2 | West Face Grand Traverse
A low traverse of the west face starting in the corner and finishing on the block right of Intrepid. You can climb just above the ledge between Zatidee and Gumtree Wall but its nicer just to walk this bit. Gets a little high off the ground in places, due mostly to the massive amount of soil erosion that's taken place in the last 40 years. FA: Graeme Hill & Russell Chudleigh, 1976 | Mount Keira | |||
V3 | Safety First
On the wall immediately to the right of The Arete By The Left Hand Side. Very thin up wall to the top. FA: Jon Muir & Graeme Hill | Mount Keira | |||
V5 | ★★ An Ode to Murray
Sit start at low crimp in the middle of the wall. Big move right to gain the crimpy ear, then join Pull-kun. FA: Brett H, 26 Oct 2018 | 3m | Mount Keira | ||
V8 | ★★★ The Big Book of Everything
Start on the rhs of the boulder at a big obvious jug. Move onto the roof jugs, go right hand to the lip, then move up to the good edge via slopers and mantle... FA: matt hoschke, 1 Jan 2018 | 4m | Mount Keira | ||
V10 | ★★★ Keira Sutra
Start sitting at the obvious jugs on the LHS, move across the lip utilising various underclings in the roof to summit via the Big Book LHV. Funky, interesting and unlike anything else in the area that I know of! FA: George Broadfoot, 15 Aug 2019 | 5m | Mount Keira | ||
V9 | ★★★ The Jungle Book
Heinous line of crimps to mantle the face. Start at jug as for TBBBOE FA: Paul Rattenbury, 10 Jun 2019 | 5m | Mount Keira | ||
V7 | ★★ Big Book Left Hand Variant
Instead of moving right hand to the lip, go with the left to a shallow pocket then RH bumps up to the good edge and mantle. FA: 8 Aug 2019 | 5m | Mount Keira | ||
V6 | ★★★ The Big Book of Slabs
Start at the jug as for TBBOE, but instead of reaching for roof jugs move right around the lip via good (but sharp) crimps, mantle and top out as for TBBOE. Set: FA: Paul Rattenbury, 21 Aug 2019 | 3m | Mount Keira | ||
V4 | ★★ The Book of Cracks
Sit start on the obvious two jugs as for Keira Sutra, and head straight up the funky crack to top out directly above starting holds. Feels very hard until you get the right beta. | 3m | Mount Keira | ||
V1 | ★ The Book of Cracks Stand
Start matched in the large hole/jug, and head straight up the crack. | 2m | Mount Keira | ||
V5 | ★★ The Book of Crackpipes
Sit start on jugs as for Keira Sutra, then head up and trend right to top out about 1.5 metres right of Book of Cracks. FA: 22 Aug 2019 | 3m | Mount Keira | ||
V4 | ★★ Hoschke meets Orwell
Sit start on obvious jug, then move up and left to a slopey top out. FA: Brett H, 23 Dec 2018 | 3m | Mount Keira | ||
V2 | ★ A Very Thin Book
Start in the middle of the ledge as for Mr. Marsupial, and head straight up on crimps, to an easy mantle to top out directly above the start. FA: Zachary Tynan, 3 Sep 2019 | 2m | Mount Keira | ||
V3 | ★★ Mr. Marsupial Learns To Read
Matched start on the left-most jug, then traverse right with sparse feet to the crack and head straight up to top out as for TBOC. FA: Zachary Tynan, 3 Sep 2019 | 3m | Mount Keira | ||
V8 | ★★★ Lockdown
Start with left hand in nice undercling in roof and right on a decent pinch. Kick right foot up into the jug and you are away, head left to good 2 finger pocket/sloper at the lip and then mantle. | Mount Keira | |||
V5 | ★★ A Very Long Book
Do Mr. Marsupial, but instead of topping out as for the V1, traverse the entire upper slab of the book boulder to top out as for TBBOE. Set: Zachary Tynan FA: May 2020 | 6m | Mount Keira | ||
V7 | ★★ Split Tip
Sit start on with RH on nice pocket, LH crimp, move straight up the undercling flake with some sick moves to a suprisingly easy top out. Be careful of the razor sharp pebbles! FA: May 2020 | 4m | Mount Keira | ||
Arêde
The hard Arête project to the right of Split Tip. Maybe V9-10? | Mount Keira | ||||
V3 | ★ Jungle Kitten
Starting at the left arete as per Jungle cat traverse along the rail to the right before exiting up the right arete as per climb #4 (the V2) | 4m | Mount Keira | ||
V4 | ★★ west face grafffiti boulder
West face graffiti boulder. Located above main west face climbs. Such a obvious, superb line. Surely this has been climbed. Start just right of choss. Sit start, left hand in little low pocket. Right in perfect side pull pinch. Top out right of corroded water line FA: Daniel McKinnell, Sep 2020 FA: Luke, Sep 2020 | 6m | Mount Keira | ||
V3 | ★ Bowled Over
Sit start middle of wall. Left hand dimple pinch/side-pull (bowling ball hold), right hand finger pocket. Straight up and delicate top out left of middle bulge FA: Jason Capenecas, 9 Dec 2020 | 3m | Mount Keira | ||
V3 | ★ Hip Flexor
Far right side sit start. Start with either 2 side pulls in the lower crack section or left hand out on crimp. Get those starting feet dialed! Straight up and top out at plant FA: Daniel McKinnell, 9 Dec 2020 | 3m | Mount Keira | ||
V1 | ★ Moe's stretch
Straight up the slab with no arete. Left of Echo Corner. FA: lkmrrs, 28 Mar 2021 | 3m | Mount Keira | ||
V1 | ★ Left To Your Own Devices
Sit start similar to Foxy Knoxy, then up to the right along the arete, finishing with the rest of the climbs. Set: 28 Mar 2021 | 3m | Mount Keira | ||
V3 | ★★ Citronella
Starting matched on undercling near tree go up to left Gaston then right sidepull move across to the chimney and go up. Doesn't share any holds with Bushmans. Set: Andrew MacKenzie FA: George Broadfoot, Aug 2020 | 4m | Mount Keira | ||
V3 | ★★ Bushmans
Sit start matched on great edge. Big move up left to the two pockets. Then veer right to top out in the middle of the boulder. Set: Andrew MacKenzie FA: George Broadfoot, Aug 2020 | 4m | Mount Keira | ||
V3 | ★★ Aeroguard
Start matched on edge at chest height. Straight up. Either a big move on good holds or multiple small moves on bad holds Set: Andrew MacKenzie | Mount Keira | |||
V2 | ★★ Chilli Jam
Start low, hugging the boulder with left and right arete, use the arete on either side to progress. Trend left using crimps and slopers to top. FA: Isaac Gray, 25 Jul 2021 | 3m | Mount Keira | ||
V2 | ★ Fish Cake
Start matched on obvious right rail, move to left crimp and top. FA: Samuel Eschler | 2m | Mount Keira | ||
V3 | ★ Cheese Cake
Start matched as for 'Fish Cake', big move out to right crimp and then top out. FA: Isaac Gray | 2m | Mount Keira | ||
V1 | Local Special
FA: 2020 | 2m | Mount Keira | ||
V1 | ★★ Bowlo
FA: 2020 | 2m | Mount Keira | ||
V1 | ★ Traino
FA: 2020 | 2m | Mount Keira | ||
V5 | ★ Snake Eyes
FA: Matt Hoschke, 2020 | 2m | Mount Keira | ||
V7 | Snake Eyes Left
Sit start on pockets, slap out left to slopers and then up and over with small crimp. FA: Mark McGivern, 1 Nov 2021 | 2m | Mount Keira | ||
V3 | Skink Eyes
| 2m | Mount Keira | ||
V4 | Quiet Mice Arete
FA: paul rattenbury, 2020 | 3m | Mount Keira | ||
V2 | Pie of sorrows
To start, match on the deep hold to the left of the boulder and bump right hand to the upper slit. keep traversing to the far side. Top out through the side of the boulder via the holds at the side and the top. Mind the footwork at the start, very cramped but fun. FA: Mazzie D | Mount Keira | |||
V1 | Aunt May's foot jam
Start wherever feels comfortable on the rails below, left foot jam into the hole, right foot on the lower rail. Span left hand up to the crimp, palm the start hold and move up through the crimps to the top out. FA: Mazzie D | Mount Keira | |||
V3 | ★★ Chungsta
Sit start with left hand on the sidepull and right hand in the obvious pocket, move up to a slopey left hand pocket and then adjust feet to go into the crescent shaped pocket with either left or right hand, then pull up to a slopey topout. FA: Alvin Chung, 29 Jul 2021 | 3m | Mount Keira | ||
V0+ | Bam
Sit start with left hand in large pocket and right hand in great low pocket, awkward feet. Pull off the ground and throw to the arete, then continue up to top out over the boulder. FA: LiamWilson.jpeg & Elijah Aquilina, 25 Jul 2021 | 3m | Mount Keira | ||
V11 | ★★★ Comfortably Numb
Sit start from LH finger pocket/crimp and RH pocket, move up via small pocket and crimp to match the lip. Committing move out left and up to mantle. Potentially already F.Aed in the late 90's FA: Nick Montague | 5m | Mount Keira | ||
V3 | ★ Mantle Ray
Sit start on left arete and crimp. Power right and traverse the sloper lip to mantle at the peak. Very little foot holds. | 4m | Mount Keira | ||
V2 | ★ Barb
Sit start as far right as possible. Shuffle up the sloper arete and mantle. | 3m | Mount Keira | ||
V1 | ★ Sticky BBQ Ribs
Sit start on the south eastern corner of Ribbed Boulder. Left hand on crimp, right in pocket. Couple of moves up to slopey lip and follow it along to the right keeping your feet on the slab. Top out at the the same spots as Bam and Chungsta. FA: Sandon Joubert, 4 Aug 2021 | 3m | Mount Keira | ||
V2 | ★★ Mark's Mad Mantle
Cramped Sit Start as for Headstone to lip then head left to awkward mantle trying not to dab or fall onto boulder just behind you. Set: Mark, 15 Aug 2021 FA: Marcus Loane, 15 Aug 2021 | 2m | Mount Keira | ||
V4 | ★★ False Erupt to I dunno man...
Start on same undercrimp as Erupt but instead of heading up traverse left to the start of I dunno man... via the start of Machinations. Then follow I dunno man... up. | Mount Keira | |||
V3 | ★ Bushmans x Citronella
Alternate Bushmans line. Same start move but move out left to the gaston of Citronella and up the chimney. | Mount Keira | |||
V3 | ★ Pullman Sit Start
Bum is the last thing to leave the ground. Climb into Pullman and follow to top. Set: Luke, 22 Aug 2021 FA: Marcus Loane, 22 Aug 2021 | 4m | Mount Keira | ||
V1 | ★★ 1218 New Cases
Sit Start with big pockets/edges for hands. Head Right to arete then up and left to manky mossy mantle. FA: Mark, 29 Aug 2021 | 3m | Mount Keira | ||
V2 | ★ 1164 New Cases
Sit Start into big move to the left side pull. Up to sloper and over. Set: Mark, 29 Aug 2021 FA: Dylan Hill, 31 Aug 2021 | 3m | Mount Keira | ||
V0 | Left Slab
Slab around to the right of Barb. Climb left side of slab following vague line of holds. Downclimb route. FA: Mark, 29 Aug 2021 | 5m | Mount Keira | ||
V0 | ★ Right Slab
Climb Right side of slab. Downclimb route. FA: Mark, 29 Aug 2021 | 5m | Mount Keira | ||
V0 | ★ Love Heart Climb
Up left side of very featured wall around to the right of Right Slab. Downclimb route. FA: Maisie, 29 Aug 2021 | 5m | Mount Keira | ||
V0 | ★ High top climbing holds
Climb straight up the middle of this featured face. Downclimb route. FA: Mark, 29 Aug 2021 | 5m | Mount Keira | ||
V0 | ★ Right to Left
Start on right side of this face and traverse left along lip all the way to the top. Downclimb this or any other route. FA: Marcus Loane, 29 Aug 2021 | 6m | Mount Keira | ||
V0 | ★ Head-height traverse
Traverse face with feet about the head-height of someone standing on ground. FA: Tilly, 29 Aug 2021 | 3m | Mount Keira | ||
V2 | Boxy Knoxy
Sit start directly next to tree, straight up, finish same as other climbs FA: Nicholas Poelczer, 31 Aug 2021 | 2m | Mount Keira | ||
V4 | ★★ Hail to the Undercrimp
Match start in the undercling. Big move out right before topping out as per hail to the crimp. FA: Dylan Hill, 3 Sep 2021 | 4m | Mount Keira | ||
V8 | ★★ Gatekeeper
Sit start LH undercling pocket & RH gaston crimp. Using the arete and other holds, move up and right into the crack and keep going up. FA: Nick Montague | 9m | Mount Keira | ||
V8 | Thrasher
A tad contrived for the sake of more problems. Stand start on the lowest footer with both LH & RH on sidepulls. Move up and right through a series of pockets & crimps to exit the same as 'Grace Under Pressure' Obvious jug foot and all rock to the right of the break is OUT FA: Nick Montague | 9m | Mount Keira | ||
V6 | ★★ Grace Under Pressure
Same as 'Beyblade SZN' until the mantle. Instead move up to the crimpy seams and top out. FA: Finn Tregurtha | 9m | Mount Keira | ||
V4 | ★★ Beyblade SZN
Stand start on obvious jug foot. move up and right through a slabby sequence, then mantle, walk right across the ledge and top out. FA: Nick Montague | 9m | Mount Keira | ||
V1 | ★ Stardrop
Stand start, balance traversing left until you reach the lip. Mantle left onto the ledge. FA: Nick Montague | 3m | Mount Keira | ||
V1 | ★ Cheat Code
Same start as 'Stardrop' but instead of mantling left, go straight up and top out FA: Nick Montague | 5m | Mount Keira | ||
V2 | ★★ Posture Check
Stand start and move up using crimps and dimples. Any rock left of obvious break on the left is OUT FA: Nick Montague | 5m | Mount Keira | ||
V2 | ★★ Mossy & Chossy
Stand start and straight up through a series of sharp crimps and pinches FA: Nick Montague | 6m | Mount Keira | ||
V5 | ★★ Above the Clouds
Stand start undercling on the flake. Snake your way up and right through more flakes & sharp crimps to top out. Recommended to do on rope first, landing is not ideal FA: Nick Montague | 8m | Mount Keira |