Showing all 36 ascents.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Date | |||
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8a+ | ||||||||
8a+ | ★★★ Move to Babylon | Berglsteiner See | Fri 5th Apr 2024 | |||||
Really nice combination. No idea about the grade, for me a lot easier than baylon and a lot harder than Movie It. Tripple send with the crew.
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8a/a+ | ||||||||
8a 8a/a+ | Romantic | 22m | Martinswand | Tue 22nd Mar 2022 | ||||
8a for me and probably 8a+ if you are shorter. Fun but painful moves with kneebar for left and if you are tall you can reach to sidepull with kneebar. Fell on the last hard move in my 3rd go but needed another 4 sessions after that )
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8a | ||||||||
8a | ★★ Freak Out | 20m | Martinswand | ★★ Very Good | Fri 11th Mar 2022 | |||
Took 2 sessions longer than expected (around 5 full sessions but with 6 months break in between), probably still on the soft side though. Easy approach to no-hand rest to 5 move boulder problem, followed by another no-hand rest and an easy top out. Really cool boulder with amazing holds and moves.
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7c+ 8a | ★★ Move It | 20m | Berglsteiner See | ★★ Very Good | Sat 29th Oct 2022 | |||
~6 goes. With kneebar rest. Probabaly easier if you are tall. And maybe even more easy if you get super-mega-beta from the local legends
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8a | ★ Sultan of Swing | Guanacho | Wed 1st May 2024 | |||||
7c+/8a. First redpoint try. Hard to find beta, but once you've found it, it's easy. Used 4 kneebars. Cool line.
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7c+ | ||||||||
7b+ 7c+ | ★★ Schweizermacher - linker Einstieg | 25m | Martinswand | Fri 12th Nov 2021 | ||||
4th go. The first 3 goes I needed to find the correct beta. Beta felt hard to find but once found, it's not so hard anymore.
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7c+ | ★★★ Renaissance | 28m | Martinswand | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 26th Jan 2022 | |||
5th session. But some sessions with only one go. In total only around 4/5 send goes. Fell in the last moves since my first go. Endurance, with a good rest in the middle. Top boulder is tricky.
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7c+ Easy | ★★★ Fotznknecht | Guanacho | Thu 2nd May 2024 | |||||
Nice route, stupid name. 7c/+, top boulder over right, no preclip. I agree, going over left would be nicer but i'll reserve eliminating holds and other shenanigans for gym climbing.
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7c | ||||||||
7c | ★★ Miss Easy | 15m | Martinswand | ★ Good | Wed 3rd Mar 2021 | |||
2 Month project. Took quite some time until I accepted that the common beta (hand switch) is the best beta. I was stubborn and spent a couple of sessions trying to dyno it. Oh well. Went down today first try while warming up and putting in draws.
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7c ~7b+ | The edge of glory | Guanacho | Thu 2nd May 2024 | |||||
Nice line. Lots of kneebars. Weird and pumpy finish.
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7b+ | ||||||||
7b+ | ★ Kleopatra | 18m | Martinswand | ★ Good | Tue 22nd Dec 2020 | |||
Very bouldery. Basically 5c route into nohand rest into a three meter long boulder. Rather on the softer side of things (which is surprising for Dschungelbuch). Took me 3 sessions. Boulder went from impossible to really easy within three sessions.
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7b+ | ★★ Pompidu | 15m | Martinswand | Tue 19th Oct 2021 | ||||
One real session (I think I tried it once a long time ago when I wasn't able to do a single move) 4th go in that session. Felt around 7b+ to me but the crimp (or sloper with other beta) is soooo far away from the undercling that it is probably 7c if you don't have the arm span.
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7b+ | ★★★ Homo Habilis | 25m | Martinswand | Fri 10th Dec 2021 | ||||
Ice cold temperatures proving - once again - that the psych depends on the crew more than the weather.
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7b+ | ★★★ No Sports | 18m | Martinswand | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 24th Jan 2022 | |||
amazing route, cool moves at the crux (second to last quickdraw). Really hard for 7b+. Couple of half sessions
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7b+ | Kalkbrenner | 15m | Berglsteiner See | Sat 26th Mar 2022 | ||||
Guide says 7b. One session, many goes. Difficult to figure out beta.
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7b+ | ★★★ Glory Days | 22m | Berglsteiner See | Sat 29th Oct 2022 | ||||
Amazing climbing, reminds me of Ceüse. Checked out moves when lowering otherwise 2nd go.
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7b+ Hard | ★★ Dancing Octerpuss | Guanacho | Sat 13th Apr 2024 | |||||
3rd go. Felt really hard. With kneepad.
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7b | ||||||||
7b+ 7b | ★★★ Mogli | 18m | Martinswand | ★★ Very Good | Thu 7th Jan 2021 | |||
I remember trying the route once right after the lockdown because someone else was projecting and the draws were in. It felt impossible. Happy to have ticked it today (half a year later). Still turned out to take really long (5 sessions or more). Although, I was trying it with the wrong beta for 4 sessions. Oh well, shit happens. Still felt a lot harder than 7b, even though I am tall (which supposedly is an advantage here). Also felt harder than Kleopatra (next to it) which I did 2 weeks ago. So I am gonna give at least 7b+. Maybe I try to do it again after some time to see if my opinion about the grade changed (I am really curious as it felt soooo hard for me and took sooo long). Also, I did not rest on the flake of Pompidu.
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7b | ★★★ Blaue Rose | 50m, 14 | Geisterschmiedwand | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 15th Oct 2021 | |||
Polished, very very nice though! 3rd go
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7b | ★★ Tilga Tolga | 18m | Martinswand | Tue 7th Dec 2021 | ||||
Sent in the first real try. Although I checked out the moves before when the start was wet etc. Felt hard until the send. In the send it felt very soft. Hook into jug and reach to crimp. I did not use the left hand mono/pocket.
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7b | ★★★ Venushügel | 23m | Martinswand | ★★ Very Good | Sun 6th Feb 2022 | |||
Really nice moves after Baghira. Makes up for having to do the polished Baghira.
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7b | ★★★ King Louis | 23m | Martinswand | Thu 10th Feb 2022 | ||||
2nd go, but did No sports already. Nice boulder problems with a very nice middle technical dihedral. A bit unfortunate no-hand rest that makes splits the route in two.
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7b | ★★★ Zwischenspiel | 15m | Berglsteiner See | Thu 9th Mar 2023 | ||||
right exit
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7b | ★★ Little Lenny | Guanacho | Thu 21st Sep 2023 | |||||
First flash of the grade 😂. Thanks for the beta everyone who was there.
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7b | Mongo Pusher | Guanacho | Thu 21st Sep 2023 | |||||
2nd go. Spanning from one jug to the next.
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7b ~7b+ | ★★ Il Gecco | 18m | Martinswand | Wed 29th Nov 2023 | ||||
Feels good to touch rock again. Edinburgh chapter closed.
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7a+ | ||||||||
7a+ | ★★ It's Easy | 15m | Martinswand | Thu 7th Jan 2021 | ||||
Really cool first 4 quickdraws. After that it's not a nice route anymore but all in all nice route. In total probably around 4 tries but usually only ever tried at the end of the session.
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7a+ | ★★★ Mister Inzing | 25m | Martinswand | Tue 9th Feb 2021 | ||||
7a+ in most guides. On the harder side of 7a+, but not 7b.
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7a+ | ★★★ Road to Hell | 20m | Martinswand | Fri 12th Mar 2021 | ||||
Second go. Nice route. Interesting crux sequence. I went from the pinch with left directly to the undercling.
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7a+ | Pfeil | 15m | Berglsteiner See | Thu 9th Mar 2023 | ||||
First send in almost 2 months. Did the 6b first.
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7a+ | ★★★ Fischdose | 35m, 15 | Geisterschmiedwand | Thu 29th Jun 2023 | ||||
7a | ||||||||
7a | ★ Kotitschta Kototscha | 18m | Martinswand | Thu 10th Dec 2020 | ||||
Finally. Started trying it after the first lockdown. And could do the route starting from the first quickdraw. Took me another half year (without serious projecting) until I was able to send it from the bottom.
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7a | ★★★ Baghira | 18m | Martinswand | Thu 21st Jan 2021 | ||||
Checked out the moves 9 months ago. Went down today first go even though I could barely remember the moves. Nice route with a potentially heartbreaking last move.
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7a | ★★★ Secret Garden | 12m | Berglsteiner See | Sat 26th Mar 2022 | ||||
7a | Hektisch am Ecktisch Extension | Martinswand | Sat 30th Dec 2023 | |||||
Lohnende Verlängerung.
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6c+/7a | ||||||||
7a 6c+/7a | ★★★ Il Matrimonio | 18m, 6 | Martinswand | Fri 12th Mar 2021 | ||||
Second go. Nice route. stayed left on the crux without using the sika hold. Don't miss the undercling pocket.
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Showing all 36 ascents.