Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Tue 4th Jun 2024 - Sparchen | |||||||
Sektor Tequila | |||||||
9+ |
★★★ Metallica
![]() | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
6+ |
★ Via Kubert
![]() | 18m | ★ Good | ||||
Sun 2nd Jun 2024 - Sparchen | |||||||
Sektor Tequila | |||||||
9- Hard |
★★★ Zauberlehrling
![]() | 20m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Climbed it for warm-up today. This time a proper redpoint with putting in all the quickdraws. At the anchor, I was extremely pumped and had to wait two minutes for my arms to relax.
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9+ |
★★★ Metallica
![]() | 20m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
The conditions were much better than expected - in fact, maybe the best conditions we've had in Sparchen. Despite the rain on the previous days, most of the routes were dry, humidity wasn't too high and the temperature was perfect for climbing. I could hold the small polished crimps better than last time and climbed the crux from the ground on my third try. I had underestimated the upper part a bit and was extremely pumped by the time I reached the anchor, but I did not fall, luckily.
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Thu 30th May 2024 - Sparchen | |||||||
Sektor Il piccolo Orso unten | |||||||
7- |
★ Pussy Cat
![]() | 20m | |||||
6+ |
★ Standfest
![]() | 16m | |||||
7- |
★ Bohrmich auch
![]() | 18m | |||||
6 |
Bohrmich
![]() | 18m | |||||
Sat 11th May 2024 - Sparchen | |||||||
Sektor Il piccolo Orso unten | |||||||
7+ |
★★ Falkenschrei
![]() | 32m | ★ Good | ||||
Sat 11th May 2024 - Sparchen | |||||||
Sektor Tequila | |||||||
9- |
★ Top Hit
![]() | 20m | ★ Good | ||||
8- |
★★ Die Schlinge
![]() | 20m | ★ Good | ||||
8 |
★★ Mittlerer Faustriss
![]() | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
7 |
★ Prühlfahrt
![]() | 18m | ★ Good | ||||
6 |
★ Ins Loch
![]() | 20m | ★ Good | ||||
Fri 10th May 2024 - Sparchen | |||||||
Sektor Tequila | |||||||
6+ |
★ Via Kubert
![]() | 18m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Fri 10th May 2024 - Sparchen | |||||||
Sektor Ökosystem | |||||||
6b |
★★ Via Irene
![]() | 25m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
6b+ |
★★ Mephisto
![]() | 28m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sun 5th May 2024 - Sparchen | |||||||
Sektor Ökosystem | |||||||
6b Hard |
★ Der kleine Grabräuber
![]() | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
6b |
★★ Via Irene
![]() | 25m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sun 5th May 2024 - Sparchen | |||||||
Sektor Tequila | |||||||
9- Hard |
★★★ Zauberlehrling
![]() | 20m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Finally sent it.
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9+ |
★★★ Metallica
![]() | 20m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Very nice route on small crimps, apart from the section from the third to fourth bolt not even that hard. I onsighted the part up to the third bolt immediately below the crux, could not climb the crux, and then climbed the upper part with one rest. On my second try, it was hotter, my skin was thinner and I just slipped off the holds, so I decided to stop trying. The first bolt is very high, though. The climbing was also not so hard, but it definitely felt a bit uncomfortable.
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Sun 5th May 2024 - Sparchen | |||||||
Sektor Ökosystem | |||||||
6b |
★★ Via Irene
![]() | 25m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
6b+ |
★★ Mephisto
![]() | 28m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
6b+ |
★★ Listo
![]() | 32m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sun 14th Apr 2024 - Sparchen | |||||||
Sektor Tequila | |||||||
6+ |
★ Via Kubert
![]() | 18m | |||||
8- |
★★ Die Schlinge
![]() | 20m | |||||
9- |
★ Top Hit
![]() | 20m | |||||
Sat 13th Apr 2024 - Sparchen | |||||||
Sektor Ökosystem | |||||||
6b+ |
★★ Mephisto
![]() | 28m | |||||
6b+ |
★★ Listo
![]() | 32m | |||||
Sat 6th Apr 2024 - Sparchen | |||||||
Sektor Ökosystem | |||||||
7c |
★★★ Face to face
![]() | 20m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Fri 5th Apr 2024 - Sparchen | |||||||
Sektor Ökosystem | |||||||
6b |
Via Ludwig
![]() | 15m | |||||
6b |
★ Der kleine Grabräuber
![]() | 20m | |||||
Sat 23rd Mar 2024 - Sparchen | |||||||
Sektor Il piccolo Orso unten | |||||||
7- |
★ Pussy Cat
![]() | 20m | ★ Good | ||||
Sat 23rd Mar 2024 - Sparchen | |||||||
Sektor Tequila | |||||||
9- Hard |
★★★ Zauberlehrling
![]() | 20m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Should have climbed it while putting up the quickdraws (2 were already in place). All moves up to the last one were very solid, but then I hesitated a bit too much as I wasn't sure where exactly the good part of the edge was, so I fell again at the last move. In my second attempt, my fingers became colder and colder and I could barely hold the good sideclings in the upper part anymore. I fell again at the last move, but this time there was no chance at all of sticking it.
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10- |
★★★ Tequila
![]() | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
First hard move is already at the first bolt when you only have very few footholds, and the available footholds are very polished. I couldn't do the move to the good sidecling on the right. It's easier afterwards up to the third bolt. The crux is probably from third to fourth bolt, where the good footholds are too low to be useful and where the handholds are not so good either. I also skipped the move to the good hold at the fourth draw which is quite far up to the left. From then one, it gets easier, even though I skipped another move to the fifth bolt. From fifth bolt to the top, the holds are larger and more incut.
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Sun 10th Dec 2023 - Sparchen | |||||||
Sektor Fred vom Jupiter | |||||||
9- |
★★★ Schmalzlauser
![]() | 15m | |||||
Zu kalt heute. Aber zumindest trocken trotz Schmelzwasser.
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9 |
★★★ Vatertag
![]() | 20m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Did all the moves, but I have to spend a little more time on the beta before being able to send this. Crux section for three draws with open holds in an overhanging wall.
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Sun 10th Dec 2023 - Sparchen | |||||||
Sektor Tequila | |||||||
10- |
★★★ Tequila
![]() | 20m | |||||
Even this part of the wall can get wet, after all. Did the moves up to to the third draw, the route was wet starting from just before the fourth draw. Since the part from the third to the fourth draw also seems to be quite hard, judging from how others climbed it, I decided to stop trying there.
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Sat 21st Oct 2023 - Sparchen | |||||||
Sektor Tequila | |||||||
6+ |
Ecopoint
★ Via Kubert
![]() | 18m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Very nice warm up
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8- |
★★ U2
![]() | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Feels a little harder than Die Schlinge because of very polished footholds. But very nice!! After fourth quickdraw stay right the small looking undercling is very good for left. At the top traverse right with the feet and bump up with right hand very far right where it looks like there might be a ledge (there is one but you cannot really see it from below)
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9- |
★★★ Zauberlehrling
![]() | 20m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Remember after third quickdraw to put left foot a tiny bit under right foot. Then side pull on the right.
Before jug on the right take crimp on the left. Then right hand to good crimp. Left hand to side pull. Foot up high left the highest possible. Then go dynamically to jug.
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9- |
★★★ Zauberlehrling
![]() | 20m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Too weak today and too scared to clip the fourth quick draw 🌶️
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9- Hard |
★★★ Zauberlehrling
![]() | 20m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Felt harder than Drunk as a Skunk today with all the polished footholds. One try to remember the moves and then two tries falling at the last move with two different betas.
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Sat 21st Oct 2023 - Sparchen | |||||||
Sektor Fred vom Jupiter | |||||||
9+ Easy |
★★★ Drunk as a Skunk
![]() | 20m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
One try to remember the moves, sent it second try. Did not feel very hard today.
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Fri 6th Oct 2023 - Sparchen | |||||||
Sektor Tequila | |||||||
9- |
★★★ Zauberlehrling
![]() | 20m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Thu 5th Oct 2023 - Sparchen | |||||||
Sektor Tequila | |||||||
9- |
★★★ Zauberlehrling
![]() | 20m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
6+ |
★ Via Kubert
![]() | 18m | Average | ||||
8- |
★★ Die Schlinge
![]() | 20m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Sun 17th Sep 2023 - Sparchen | |||||||
Sektor Ökosystem | |||||||
6b |
★★ Via Irene
![]() | 25m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sun 17th Sep 2023 - Sparchen | |||||||
Sektor Il piccolo Orso unten | |||||||
6+ |
★ Standfest
![]() | 16m | Average | ||||
6 ~6 |
Bohrmich
![]() | 18m | Average | ||||
Sat 26th Aug 2023 - Sparchen | |||||||
Sektor Il piccolo Orso unten | |||||||
7- |
★ Pussy Cat
![]() | 20m | ★ Good | ||||
Sat 26th Aug 2023 - Sparchen | |||||||
Sektor Tequila | |||||||
6+ |
★ Via Kubert
![]() | 18m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
7- |
★★ Linke Verschneidung
![]() | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sat 19th Aug 2023 - Sparchen | |||||||
Sektor Il piccolo Orso unten | |||||||
5 |
★★ Klein aber fein
![]() | ||||||
Sat 19th Aug 2023 - Sparchen | |||||||
Sektor Tequila | |||||||
6 |
★ Ins Loch
![]() | 20m | |||||
Sat 19th Aug 2023 - Sparchen | |||||||
Sektor Nonplusultra | |||||||
5+ |
Kaminkehrer
![]() | 13m | |||||
7 |
Flughafen
![]() | 15m | |||||
Wed 19th Jul 2023 - Sparchen | |||||||
Sektor Il piccolo Orso unten | |||||||
5 |
★★ Klein aber fein
![]() | ||||||
Wed 19th Jul 2023 - Sparchen | |||||||
Sektor Tequila | |||||||
7- |
★★ Schoolgirl
![]() | 17m | |||||
6+ |
★ Via Kubert
![]() | 18m | |||||
Fri 23rd Jun 2023 - Sparchen | |||||||
Sektor Tequila | |||||||
8- |
★★ Die Schlinge
![]() | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
9- Hard |
★ Top Hit
![]() | 20m | ★ Good | ||||
7- |
★★ Linke Verschneidung
![]() | 20m | Crap | ||||
Thu 15th Jun 2023 - Sparchen | |||||||
Sektor Ökosystem | |||||||
6b+ |
★★ Listo
![]() | 32m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Accidently climbed to the anchor, wanted to do Möwe Jonathan
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7+ |
★★★ Möwe Jonathan
![]()
3
7
30
lead by
ToxicD
A mix of jugs and slabby parts with a steep dihedral / crack section. Nice moves. | 150m, 13 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Thu 15th Jun 2023 - Sparchen | |||||||
Sektor Tequila | |||||||
6+ |
★ Via Kubert
![]() | 18m | ★ Good | ||||
little bit scary exit
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Thu 15th Jun 2023 - Sparchen | |||||||
Sektor Il piccolo Orso unten | |||||||
6+ ~7- |
★ Standfest
![]() | 16m | Average | ||||
Sat 3rd Jun 2023 - Sparchen | |||||||
Sektor Ökosystem | |||||||
6b+ |
★★ Listo
![]() | 32m | |||||
Wed 31st May 2023 - Sparchen | |||||||
Sektor Il piccolo Orso unten | |||||||
7+ ~8 |
★★ Falkenschrei
![]() | 32m | |||||
Very strange climbing, not enjoyable at all! The crux is some kind of strange mantle, which I couldn't figure out! Also, climbing this route in the sun is not recommended. It has become quite polished.
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Wed 31st May 2023 - Sparchen | |||||||
Sektor Tequila | |||||||
9- |
★★★ Zauberlehrling
![]() | 20m | |||||
Wed 31st May 2023 - Sparchen | |||||||
Sektor Nonplusultra | |||||||
9+/10- |
★★ Nonplusultra
![]() | 25m | Average | ||||
Wanted to climb it, but it was getting too dark. Apparently not as amazing as the guide book would have you believe. Chossy in parts. The whole sector would benefit from more people climbing.
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Wed 31st May 2023 - Sparchen | |||||||
Sektor Il piccolo Orso unten | |||||||
8+ |
★★ Astroman
![]()
1
6
20m
Mostly easy, a bit more difficult for the last short slabby part to the anchor.
2
7
15m
Short and easy.
3
8-
25m
Sent this pitch this time. First some slightly overhanging climbing on big ledges, then a crack which goes up and left. Jammed my way through the upper part of the first crack this time which made it a lot easier. The hardest part was to turn left out of the crack and into the bad flake which only gets better further to the left. Then there is a second crack, less suited for jamming which is also hardest at the top when you reach left and then traverse to an anchor above a small tree and below the dihedral to your left.
4
8-
25m
First a technical dihedral with few and small holds. I sent this part. Then a slabby part with a sloping crack on your right going up and left. I fell when I put my hand on a wet part of the crack - I could do one more move, but holding onto the wet part was so strenuous that I fell on the move after that.
5
8+
15m
Sent it second try this time. Had to figure out the beta again, the kneebar from last time was really helpful. The crux starts with a v-shaped hold which is best for the left hand. Then comes a hidden jug for the right on the left side of the crack, which looks exactly like the rest of the crack. From this jug, you reach up far with the left to an edge. Then, you can either put a right kneebar very high just below your right hand, take a bad sidepull sloper with the right, take the better crack above as a gaston with the left and bump the right into the jug. There is a second beta where instead of the kneebar, you put a right heel hook far to the right, reach for a good sidepull with the right and go into the jug with the left. | 100m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
7+ ~8 |
★★ Falkenschrei
![]() | 32m | Don't Bother | ||||
It is very weird, the move above the sling we could not do. It was also sunny and we definitely could not use slopers very well. But I don't think it is 7+ and I it is the worst warm up ever.
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Wed 31st May 2023 - Sparchen | |||||||
Sektor Tequila | |||||||
8- |
★★ Die Schlinge
![]() | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Nice warm up route
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9- |
★★★ Zauberlehrling
![]() | 20m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
New beta: take the right lower foothold then go to sidepull which is below the chalked one (and it has a hole on the left to use as a pinch. Then left foot to the top foothold right foot very far right (to the upper good foothold. Then go up to the good ledge (all the way up. Then traverse to the right to restposition on good feet and crimp. Rest a long long time. Then left hand to Gaston, right hand to Gaston. Left foot far left. Right foot up. Go to finger hole. Right foot up, left foot left. Take intermediate on the right left foot higher. Then right hand all the way up into double finger hole (the upper right part). Left hand matches into gold hole. Clip. Right foot right but stay down. Right hand to the good sidepull on the right. Left foot to turn in to the right (left side at the wall). Then left hand takes intermediate and crimp on the left. Clip (QuickDraw has to be a bit longer). Right hand into jug sidepull. Left foot high up to turn in to the right again. Left hand to hold in the middle, right foot far to the right. Right hand to hold on the right (not super good). Left foot up to the inner foothold right foot very high up. A bit dynamic to top jug.
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Sun 14th May 2023 - Sparchen | |||||||
Sektor Tequila | |||||||
9- Hard |
★★★ Zauberlehrling
![]() | 20m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Was definitely too hard for a flash as first route of the day, then tried it again at the end of the day, but didn't have enough power left.
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Sun 14th May 2023 - Sparchen | |||||||
Sektor Fred vom Jupiter | |||||||
9+ Easy |
★★★ Drunk as a Skunk
![]() | 20m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
One try for putting in the quickdraws and figuring out the top. Should have sent it during my first redpoint go, but I fell in the very last move of the route, to the jug next to the anchor. Had skipped the last two quickdraws, so I probably took the biggest whipper I've taken so far (10+ meters), but the route is so overhanging in the lower part that I just fell into air and didn't even touch the wall. Couldn't climb the first crux in my last try.
Beta for the top part: after resting, stay low and take a pinch with the left, put left foot up and out to the left on good hold, right hand gaston, right foot up and far to the right, left hand undercling, right hand to crimp, clip. Then move up and left and don't forget the one place where the otherwise bad ledge to the left is actually good. Right hand up in sidepull crimp, left hand just next to it on large sloping hold. Either clip or skip last two quickdraws. Left drop knee and left hand up to pinch, right hand intermediate, right foot up, turn right hip inwards, bump right hand to better hold. Left hand not to bad pinch on edge but further to the left into small pocket (would have sent with this beta most probably, but only realized that it was easier afterwards), again right foot up and hip inwards, right hand to pinch, feet up and left hand into jug above pinch. |
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Sun 14th May 2023 - Sparchen | |||||||
Sektor Tequila | |||||||
9- |
★★★ Zauberlehrling
![]() | 20m | |||||
8- |
★★ Die Schlinge
![]() | 20m | |||||
Sun 14th May 2023 - Sparchen | |||||||
Sektor Fred vom Jupiter | |||||||
9 |
★★★ Vatertag
![]() | 20m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Dont know why I didn't climb it second go, third go felt really desperate, but somehow worked out.
Probably the best of the routes I have climbed in this sector yet!
Older guidebooks rate this at 9+/7c+, but 9/7c feels more appropriate.
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Sat 13th May 2023 - Sparchen | |||||||
Sektor Ökosystem | |||||||
7+ |
★★★ Möwe Jonathan
![]() | 150m, 13 | |||||
Sun 7th May 2023 - Sparchen | |||||||
Sektor Fred vom Jupiter | |||||||
9- |
★★★ Schmalzlauser
![]() | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
I thought I was going to send it 2nd try, took 6 tries instead.
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9+ Easy |
★★★ Drunk as a Skunk
![]() | 20m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Beta: 1st crux: take good sidecling as a gaston to reach up to good flake, match flake on top, right drop knee, take lower right end of the next hold, left heelhook and with left hand into crimp. 2nd crux: left hand good pocket, right hand undercling, left hand sloper, shuffle feet and reach up right to relatively good incut crimp. Cut feet, right foot far up right, left foot hanging, match hold, dynamically up to good pocket with left (then still some not so easy moves to good hole on left). Definitely check out the last vertical part again - it's not so easy.
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Sun 7th May 2023 - Sparchen | |||||||
Sektor Tequila | |||||||
8- |
★★ Die Schlinge
![]() | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Nice but very polished
|
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6 |
★ Ins Loch
![]() | 20m | ★ Good | ||||
9- |
★★★ Zauberlehrling
![]() | 20m | |||||
8- |
★★ Die Schlinge
![]() | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Good warum for next time. Fell on the very last hard move. Don't forget the small foothold that is very central but high for right foot. After using the very far right black foothold.
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9- |
★★★ Zauberlehrling
![]() | 20m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Very nice route, would be a great first 9- to sent. Pre clip the first bolt because it is a bit scary. Then go right to clip the first bolt. Then down again to rest. Afterwards go left. Left foot to the big slopy hole that is super black. Right foot higher up Right hand to the very end of the vertical ledge then left foot higher up on the left face. And left hand into very good crimpy side pull. With right to little crimp. Left bump into undercling and then go to the jug on the left. Rest. Switch left foot so that it is on the very right of the foothold. Go with left hand into undercling. Then with right into jug (it is more juggy on the right. Right foot onto small foothold on the very right. Left hand matches, clip. Switch feet
. Left foot onto good foothold above. Right hand to the very right into the side/slightly underclingy knubby thing. Right foot up and left hand into crumbly ledge. Right hand to good handhold with tickmark. Short rest is possible here. Left foot high up. Turn in. Left hand to big Gaston (shoulder move). Right foot to crazy good big ledge on the right. Left hand matches to Gaston. Left foot to little black knob on the left. Right foot more right onto black little foothold same height roughly as good ledge. Left hand into finger pocket. Right foot high up onto good crumbly ledge handhold from before. Right hand into finger hole further up (thumb goes into the other fingerhole. Match with left into adjacent fingerhole. Turn in so that right side faces the wall. Clip, then right foot to the right, left foot slightly up and right hand bumps into good sidepinch/hold. Left hand goes into next slot above it. Left foot high up. Right foot up and right hand into good side pull. Left hand matches. Right hand into even better side pull above. Left foot high up (turn in so that left outer side faces the wall. Go up with left, left foot needs to go slightly higher on small foothold. Right hand to next chalked handhold which is right next to the lady handhold. Right foot up and more right. Dynamic move to jug. Match and the route is actually over.
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Sun 7th May 2023 - Sparchen | |||||||
Sektor Il piccolo Orso unten | |||||||
7- |
★ Teamwork
![]() | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Nice warm up for the head. But the muscles were not too warm afterwards.
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Sun 7th May 2023 - Sparchen | |||||||
Sektor Tequila | |||||||
8- |
★★ Die Schlinge
![]() | 20m | |||||
Key beta -- Use the upper foothold at the crux, not the lower!
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Sun 7th May 2023 - Sparchen | |||||||
Sektor Il piccolo Orso unten | |||||||
7- |
★ Teamwork
![]() | 15m | |||||
Sun 7th May 2023 - Sparchen | |||||||
Sektor Fred vom Jupiter | |||||||
9- |
★★★ Schmalzlauser
![]() | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Cool crux with a crag that I couldnt quite jam in a useful way.
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Mon 1st May 2023 - Sparchen | |||||||
Sektor Tequila | |||||||
9- |
★ Top Hit
![]() | 20m | |||||
Sun 27th Nov 2022 - Sparchen | |||||||
Sektor Fred vom Jupiter | |||||||
9- |
★★★ Schmalzlauser
![]() | 15m | |||||
Tue 6th Sep 2022 - Sparchen | |||||||
Sektor Tequila | |||||||
9- |
★★★ Zauberlehrling
![]() | 20m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Tue 6th Sep 2022 - Sparchen | |||||||
Sektor Il piccolo Orso unten | |||||||
7- |
★ Pussy Cat
![]() | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
8- |
★★ Power Crack
![]() | 20m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Mon 5th Sep 2022 - Sparchen | |||||||
Sektor Ökosystem | |||||||
6c |
★ Aligator
![]() | 32m | Average | ||||
6b+ |
Nun quam retro
![]() | 30m | Don't Bother |