Routes in Rio de Janeiro

The most famous route on Pao de Acucar and a mega classic for Rio. It's often done in two or three pitches and doesn't go all the way to the top. It's usually completed by connecting to other routes along the "West face", going all the way to the summit. This technical face and slab climb is directly under the cable car. The most common way is connecting with Cavalo Louco using either the "Variante da Italianos para o Cavalo Louco", or the "Variante Darcy Ribeiro" and then linking with Secundo Costa Neto. Either way, from base to summit is approximately 270m of fairly sustained climbing.

1. Pitch 1, 35m; Slab climbing through to the technical face crux near belay

2. Pitch 2, 43m; A sustained slab and face.

3. Pitch 3, 20m, Continue upwards to belay at shared anchor with CEPI or continue to make use of your full rope length.

Take about 14 draws and a few runners. This routes takes around 3-6 hours to climb to the summit.

There is a new finish on a bolted line aside the ferrata - "CEPI em Livre".

An outstanding excursion up the upper third of the massive cliff below Cristo Redentor. One of the classic routes of Rio de Janeiro. Climb of quite varied technique: Dihedral, slabs and holds. Although not technically difficult, the route begins at 550m above sea level with some sections that are quite exposed. Fast parties can climb it in 2 hours.

This is a very runout sport route (where people have broken ankles falling at P5) or so consider this a mixed trad route with the slab parts still being significantly runout.

Climb the southeast face of the mountain, and is ideally climbed in the afternoon shade. Getting to the start of the route: Walk along the train tracks for about 10 minutes to a shack on your left. Walk along the asphalt road four about 5 minutes and you'll come to a curve in the road. The trail starts here. Follow the trail to the cliff. Look up and you'll see a large dihedral and the start of this route.

P2 & P3 are often done in one pitch.

1. 25m (IVsup): A technical dihedral and out L to ledge and up to DBB.

2. 20m (IV): A delicate, exposed traverse out left and up to DBB (or continue up to P3 anchors.

3. 20m (IV): Delicate and exposed slab up then step R to DBB.

4. 25m (IV): Delicate and exposed out right to DBB.

5. 35m (IV): Slab, irregular dihedral, and irregular crack near the plateau at the end of this pitch. Walk along the dirt track a few metres to P6. Nuts and cams come in handy at the beginning. A few people have broken their angles falling low down on top the low angled slab.

6. 25m (IV): Slab with four bolts. Tree belay.

After finishing the route, follow the trail up through the grass and jump over the fence. You'll be right under Christ the Redeemer statue.

Double bolted anchors at all stations. Mostly fixed bolts along the route, but it is advisable to take cams and nuts especially on pitch 3 and/or if you do the variant first pitch (climb the full length of the dihedral).

Starting a few meters to the right of "Escadinha de Jacó".

1. Pitch 1: 35m; Up and to the right to reach double rings.

2. Pitch 2: 50m; Straight up to double rings.

3. Pitch 3: 25m; to the right to reach a ledge with double rings.

Take 11 quickdraws plus slings and extra carabiners.

Bolts are well-placed and not run-out.

Third route from the left on the north face. Start is straight at the end of the main entrance track. From Last pitch can take two ways to the top: best one is to link with Reinaldo Behnken straight up. 8 quickdraws plus slings and extra carabiners.

One of the most unique routes in all of Rio de Janeiro, Passagem dos Olhos traverses across a high and vertical section of the mountain face. Its horizontal and aerial nature make the experience of climbing it more challenging than its grade would suggest!

14th route from the left. Starts at a 2m-high block. 14 quickdraws if you feel like clipping every single bolt in the quite over protected pitches.

Second route from the left on the north face of the mountain. Start is shortly to the left facing in to the end of the main entrance track. 7 quickdraws plus slings and extra carabiners for anchors.

Easiest one to lead on this face. Very nice! Single ring bolt at the top.

Straight up

7th routhe from the left. Starts at an arete, and the first bolt is right after it. Mostly easy with a couple of moves at 18. First pitch goes for 50m and it's about a 13. Second pitch is again 50m, a bit harder, at 14/15 but with an 18 section. Third pitch is only about 25m and it's super easy. 4th pitch is again about 25m long, and about a 17. 8 quickdraws plus slings and extra carabiners.

This is a long scramble up the east face of Pao de Acucar.

There is a 30m section of vertical 5.7 about half way up the face. It's fairly straight forward, but is technical climbing.

Take some draws and a short rope for the crux.

First 25m is up a nice layback crack, then the rest 60m is face climbing. Although crack has been bolted, it can be done completely with trad gear. 6 quickdraws plus slings and extra carabiners.

Começa junto em um abaulado e um reglete vai até o batente e domina.

A via segue até a parada dupla que é comum às vias Valfenda, Tûk Tolo, Olho de Sauron, Cachimbo do Gandalf

11th route from the left, about 20m right of Vilma Arnaud. First bolt is about 15m high. First route on this wall, from 1965. Very constant grade. 10 quickdraws plus slings and extra carabiners.

First route on the face facing the track. DRBs at the top. It doesnt use the arête.

A via segue até a parada dupla que é comum às vias Valfenda, Tûk Tolo, Olho de Sauron, Cachimbo do Gandalf

Mostly done on bolts, but cams and stoppers needed for the first 20m of the first pitch (small to medium cams or medium to large stoppers). It finishes at the anchors of the 5th pitch of "Secundo Costa Neto" and from there you can reach the summit in another 3 pitches (making it a total of 270m). You can combine pitches 2, 3 and 4 into 2 pitches.

The start is at a crack a just left of the start of the famous "Via dos Italianos" route.

1. Pitch 1: 40m 1st pitch has a short crack at the beginning, then diagonal right to the belay just up and left from the Italianos belay.

2. Pitch 2: 30m Trend left with some face climbing and VERY delicate slabby traverses

3. Pitch 3: 30m Trend left with some face climbing and VERY delicate slabby traverses

4. Pitch 4: 25m

One of the nicest climbs on the Sugar Loaf!

Some fairly long run-outs between bolts by modern standards. Take long slings to help with rope drag. Some of the belays on this route are off one bolt.

First few meters need to be climbed in artificial. This route is possible free at 6° VIIc E3 - see "CEPI em Livre".

The cable was put in 1952 by Centro Excursionista do Pico de Itatiaia which the acronym is the name of the via ferrata route. Later the cable was removed at the start of the climb after some accidents and deaths of non-climbers attempting the route with no equipment. The route has now been bolted and is a sport route - see "CEPI em Livre".

10th route from the left, about 20 right from Arca de Noé. Grade is very constant, unlike many on this wall. 13 quick draws plus a few slings and biners.

Very nice!

A route from the "North face"[1613256762] that finishes up the "West face" and that is usually used as a continuation of the popular "Via dos Italianos" route on the West face.

This route begins in a squeeze chimney, then moves out onto the north west face of 'Pao de Acucar'. It is bolt protected, but is far from a sport climbing. The style is very characteristic of the area and it is a great route.

After reaching the shoulder between Pao de Acucar and Urca, head towards the north face of the formation. Secundo starts in the obvious dihedral/chimney.

Take 15 draws including several long runners.

2° IV E1

Veers left to reach the first DBBs then straight up

Fifth (if you count the variant Novos Horizontes) from the left on north face. First bolt is above a small ledge, a bit higher and to the right of Novos Horizontes. You can reach the summit by linking with Ricardo Prado after the third belay station. There are a few variants along the way so it's easy to mix routes up. The original goes up for 45m to the first DRBs slightly to the left. It then goes up and slightly to the right for another 45m to the second belay station. It then moves up a bit to traverse left to the 3rd stop, about 30m up. 8 quickdraws plus slings and extra biners.

Começa sentado com as duas mãos juntas no abauladão.

Sixth route from the left. Mostly a 13, with some 14/15 moves in the second pitch and the 17 move at the end of the third pitch. A fall during this move will likely hit a ramp, so watch out. 9 quickdraws plus a few slings to reduce drag and extra biners for anchors.

Sai com a mão direita na aresta e a esquerda aberta e domina.

Another variant connecting "Via dos Italianos" to "Cavalo Louco". This time it goes from the anchors at the end of the second pitch of "Via dos Italianos" and moves to the left to reach the middle of the 4th pitch of "Cavalo Louco".

Setor do Leone Esportivas do Cantagalo

Located on the gently-sloping east face of the mountain, Heineken is a great route for first-time and beginner climbers who want to climb to the top of Sugarloaf. Best done in the afternoon. 3 hours to summit

Começa com as duas mãos no agarrão.

A direita da Nebulosa

Começa sentado com as duas mãos na agarra de lado e toca pra esquerda até o chifrinho e toca pra cima.

Straight up

Começa com os braços abertos, a direita num reglete bom de lado e a outra mais pra cima à esquerda.

Começa em cima da raiz, com a mão esquerda na quina e a direita mais pra direita alta.

As duas mãos na direita abauloada.

Eigth route from the left. A bit run out. Mostly a 14/15. Last pitch is an 18. Finishes at the same ledge as Roda Viva

Setor Leone Esportivas Cantagalo

Very first route to the left hand side of the north face of Morro da Babilônia. first pitch is a traverse to the left. other pitches go up. need to check abseil bolts to avoid down climbing the traverse. 6 quickdraws, a few slings to reduce drag and your anchor set is all you need.

D2 5° VI E2

One of the nicest lines of Pedra do Urubu. Single ring bolt at the top.

Localização: Cantagalo - Copacabana ( Rio de Janeiro ) Graduação: 6° VIIa E1 Agarras quebradiças. No segundo crux, antes do diedro que podem ir peças móveis, há um bloco frágil, que pode cair em breve. Cuidado ao ficar na base se houver outra cordada escalando.

Começa com a mão em um reglete bom na esquerda e a outra num reglete pior na direita.

Mão esquerda aberta na aresta e a direita em um chifrinho e domina lá no alto em um agarrão.

Segue até a parada dupla que é comum as vias Cortina de Fumaça e Flauta Mágica.

The chimney that runs up the left side of the Totem formation on the south face of Pao de Acucar.

Route is bolted but only sparsely (no more than 3 to 4 bolts per pitch). Sometimes hard to see/find them, so good route finding skills are necessary, although it's mostly straight forward. At 3rd belay station make sure to go right from the ledge/tree. To the left is a variant graded at 5o A1 in the Brazilian grade system.

1. 1st pitch (30m): 3 bolts on slab and belay from single bolt on ledge.

2. 2nd pitch (50m): Slightly left to tree, then ledge, up chimney with one bolt, then ledge and another chimney with 2 bolts and then below from ledge on DBB.

3. 3rd pitch (40m): Continue up chimney with one bolt, then past roof and ledge with there is a DBB, continue up passing trees to get to bigger ledge (salão azul) and below from tree.

4. 4th pitch (40m): Walk right towards the end of the ledge and up past a small ledge with one bolt, some loose rocks and tight chimney to get a single bolt.

5. 5th pitch (40m): Up chimney with 3 bolts to get to DBB at the end.

6. 6th pitch (20m): Up past 3 bolts to get to DBB.

7. 7th pitch (20m): Left and up past 3 bolts to reach DBB. 50m walk to summit.

Overhanging flake with a bolt at the end for top roping

Above "Cristal Mágico".

Tends left all the way up

2° IIIsup E2/E3

A 130m classic face climb on the south face of Pao de Acucar; a techy face on tiny little crimps and smears. This route is the third obvious line through the vegetation from the right.

1. Pitch 1: 30m;

2. Pitch 2: 35m, Stopping at a nice ledge.

3. Pitch 3: 35m; Trend right and then up and left.

4. Pitch 4: 30m; Through a bit of vegetation to reach "Costão"[2476002666] track.

11 quickdraws plus slings and extra carabiners.

About 100m to the right of Luiz Arnaud. Lots of vegetation for the first few meters. First pitch is the hardest. 7 quickdraws, slings and extra carabiners.

This is a variant start to Salomith, linking at first double bolts. Only the first move is a 17. Rest is about a 13. Start at a plateau about 6m up from the main track that runs along the base of all climbs. 11 quickdraws to end of first pitch.

Used as a shortcut for the "Costão"[2476002666] track and therefore commonly soloed. Starts at a streak of basalt on the wall. First bolt is at 15m high.

To get to the base, you'll need to go down about 50m from the start of "CEPI" following a track along the margins of the mountain.

1. Pitch 1: 40m; Careful in the first pitch as there are frequently nests of hornets in some of the cracks/holes.

2. Pitch 2: 40m;

3. Pitch 3: 25m;

4. Pitch 4: 45m;

5. Pitch 5: 40m; The route ends at Cisco Kid fourth anchors, so if you climb the last 2 pitches of 'Cisco Kid', you'll reach the summit (total 280m).

Take 12 quickdraws.

There's a variant coming out of the 2nd anchors - the original goes right and finishes on a ledge; the variant goes kind of straight up, missing the ledge and heading straight to the next set of anchors. If you choose to take the variant, make sure your rope is long enough (60m). The variant is usually taken when the original is a bit wet because of the bushy ledge. The variant is a bit harder as well, rating VIsup Brazilian grading.

Terceira a direita da Nebulosa

Saindo pela Pedrita até a penúltima proteção antes do top, segue pela esquerda e termina na primeira parada da Epitáfios utilizando as chapas da Ponte Aérea

Começa os braços abertos e toca reto