Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Date | |||
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5.12c 5.12a | ★★ From Beneath You It Devours | 24m | Cheakamus Canyon | ★★ Very Good | Sun 12th Jul 2015 | |||
Awesome kneebar halfway up the steep bit. Could be 12c if you had no idea how to jam, but the line is a crack. Probably really a soft 12a.
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5.11d | ★★ Serenity Now - with Steve and Alice | 22m, 10 | Squamish | ★ Good | Sat 1st Aug 2015 | |||
Sandbagged onto this by Steve. Has some hard moves, but main difficulty was finding all the hidden holds!
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5.11b 5.11c | ★★ Trekking to India - with Tim | 24m, 9 | Sully's Hangout | ★ Good | Thu 2nd Oct 2014 | |||
Good fun, and didn't get the onsight very easily, partly because I was trying to avoid using the same holds as Dynamic Duo. Unfortunate they're so close together, but they're both fun still.
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5.11c | ★★ Burp the Worm - with Deano | 20m, 7 | Squamish | ★★ Very Good | Wed 29th Jun 2016 | |||
Made me sweat, especially getting the final jug. Some pretty burly parts, but unfortunately (fortunate for me) it's not very sustained.
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5.11c | ★★★ Magic Carpet Ride - with Deano | 110m | Squamish | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 11th Aug 2016 | |||
Amazing. Hard to get off the ground, and a long way to the first clip, but rest of p1 fairly easy, with a harder step left at about 2/3 height. Second pitch gets 11a in the guide, but is definitely the hardest/most sustained. Awesome slabbing. p3 has a couple of hardish moves, but generally felt easier than p2. p4 fairly straight-forwards, with one slightly harder move going past the 4th(?) bolt.
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5.11c | ★★ Gertrude - with barb | 12m, 3 | Squamish | ★ Good | Mon 3rd Sep 2018 | |||
Good fun. Steep jugs with a single V3 move at the 3rd bolt. Would deserve a star or two if it was a bit longer.
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5.11a 5.11b | ★ Thumbstruck | 25m, 10 | Skaha | ★ Good | Mon 20th Apr 2015 | |||
Very cruxy start. New guide gives it 11b, which I think feels more honest.
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5.10d 5.11b | ★ Fearless Fraser (Unknown) | 25m, 8 | Squamish | Average | Wed 8th Jul 2015 | |||
Bit of a one-move wonder, but nice rock.
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5.11b | ★★ My Mother Loves Me - with topher | 30m, 11 | Skaha | ★★ Very Good | Fri 7th Aug 2015 | |||
A bit too pumpy to be a good warmup!
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5.11b | ★★ Winston's Choice - with Steve | 22m, 10 | Skaha | ★ Good | Fri 7th Aug 2015 | |||
Fun start, with trickier finish than expected.
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5.11a 5.11b | ★★ Addicted to War (Unknown 2) | 15m | Horne Lake | ★ Good | Mon 8th Aug 2016 | |||
5.11b | ★★ Varicose Veins - with Janet | 25m, 11 | Squamish | ★★ Very Good | Sun 1st Jul 2018 | |||
Unbelievably didn't screw it up, despite my best efforts. Crux is around bolts 3-4, with top section pretty simple.
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5.10d 5.11b | ★★ Tilted Glass - with Ian Saunders | 16m, 4 | Skaha | ★ Good | Sat 6th Apr 2019 | |||
Thin and tenuous, but not too painful on the tips.
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5.11a | ★★ Lubo - with Tim | 15m, 6 | Sully's Hangout | ★★ Very Good | Thu 2nd Oct 2014 | |||
Fun rising traverse, then great face moves to get to the 4th bolt. Found the last move the hardest to commit to with a mossy footer.
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5.11a | ★★ My One Muscle | 22m, 7 | Sully's Hangout | ★ Good | Fri 14th Nov 2014 | |||
5.11a | ★★ Colours of the Wind | 20m | Skaha | ★★ Very Good | Sun 19th Apr 2015 | |||
Some fun moves on little crimpers, but pretty easy overall.
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5.11a | ★★ Nemesis | 9m, 5 | Skaha | ★ Good | Tue 21st Apr 2015 | |||
Good fun, with a couple of really nice moves near the top
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5.11a | ★★ Currently Coagulating | 15m | Cheakamus Canyon | ★★ Very Good | Fri 10th Jul 2015 | |||
Pretty fun
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5.11a | ★★ Quickdraw - with Steve | 55m, 16 | Squamish | ★★ Very Good | Thu 5th Mar 2015 | |||
Deserves a couple of stars, even if it does naturally go onto the trad line next to it near the top. Excellent first pitch with a fun start and slabby arete, and then a balancy start to the second pitch.
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5.11b 5.11a | ★★ Goin’ Shrimpin’ (Goin' Shrimpn') - with Jed | 15m, 7 | Skaha | ★ Good | Sat 8th Aug 2015 | |||
Fun moves past the roof.
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5.11a | ★★ Villainous | 15m | Skaha | ★ Good | Sat 30th Apr 2016 | |||
Pumpy access to upper pitch
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5.11a | ★★★ Pleasant Pheasant - with Deano | 22m, 7 | Squamish | ★★★ Classic | Tue 28th Jun 2016 | |||
Gets you pumped if you're unfit, but otherwise pretty simple climbing.
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5.11a | ★ Placebo | 9m, 4 | Squamish | Average | Thu 11th Aug 2016 | |||
As the guide says, not the best warm-up. A pretty ugly climb, really. Nowhere near two stars!
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5.11a | ★★ The Jaxx - with Janet | 12m, 6 | Banff | ★★ Very Good | Tue 2nd Jul 2019 | |||
Short, but fun and definitely a little less obvious than Mountain Aven
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5.11a | ★★ Secretariat - with Janet and Shauna | 13m, 6 | Banff | ★ Good | Tue 2nd Jul 2019 | |||
Thin moves at the top, and spent most of the time trying to find the holds. Just as well it isn't too steep!
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5.10d | ★★ The Big Barn Door | 8m, 2 | Squamish | ★★ Very Good | Thu 1st Sep 2011 | |||
Awkward move, rather apt name!
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5.10d | ★ Tequila Sunset | 12m, 5 | Skaha | Average | Tue 21st Apr 2015 | |||
5.10d | ★★★ The Burglar | 26m, 8 | Squamish | ★★★ Classic | Wed 8th Jul 2015 | |||
Great!
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5.10d | ★ Whatever - with Alice | 40m | Squamish | ★ Good | Mon 15th Oct 2018 | |||
Was meant to do Ladies First, but it was getting dark and completely missed the bolts. Progressively harder right to the top.
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5.10d | ★★ Slices of Quince - with Ian Saunders | 22m | Skaha | ★★★ Classic | Sat 6th Apr 2019 | |||
Really good climbing, going over the classic Skaha polished bulge at the top.
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5.11a 5.10d | ★★ Mountain Even (Mountain Aven) - with Janet | 12m, 6 | Banff | ★★ Very Good | Tue 2nd Jul 2019 | |||
5.10d 5.10c | ★★ Shake your lettuce | 20m | Sully's Hangout | ★★ Very Good | Fri 14th Nov 2014 | |||
The most enjoyable climb here so far. Flows really nice, and is still doable when your hands are getting more and more frozen
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5.10c | ★★ Brilliant Pebbles (Brilliant Peebles) | 24m, 9 | Skaha | ★★★ Classic | Mon 20th Apr 2015 | |||
Really nice moves throughout.
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5.10c | ★ Banana Caliente | 9m, 4 | Skaha | Average | Tue 21st Apr 2015 | |||
A bit glassy
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5.10c | ★★ Centurion - with Aeron | 170m, 51 | Cheakamus Canyon | ★★ Very Good | Tue 19th May 2015 | |||
Good but not great. Some really enjoyable climbing interspersed with some not-so-good climbing. Pitch 3 climbs the best I think. Pitch 4 is given as the crux pitch, but hardest move is near the start of pitch 5, and pitch 6 is the most sustained. A nice day out, and well worth the walk.
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5.10c | ★ The Voodoo That You Do | 18m, 6 | Cheakamus Canyon | ★ Good | Fri 10th Jul 2015 | |||
Post-lunch warmup
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5.10c | ★★ Sidewinder - with Jed | 17m, 7 | Skaha | ★★ Very Good | Sun 9th Aug 2015 | |||
5.10c | ★ Pink Cosmo Girls - with Jed | 20m | Skaha | ★ Good | Fri 7th Aug 2015 | |||
Definitely not 11a like the guide says, but a little harder than 10b I think.
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5.10c | ★★ Red Dawg - with Janet | 14m, 5 | Skaha | ★ Good | Fri 29th Apr 2016 | |||
5.10c | ★★ Stubborn Streak - with Janet | 25m | Skaha | Fri 29th Apr 2016 | ||||
5.10c | ★★ Faint Hope Claws - with Janet | 24m, 9 | Skaha | Fri 29th Apr 2016 | ||||
5.10a 5.10c | ★ Chassè Right - with Alice | 45m | Squamish | Mon 15th Oct 2018 | ||||
p2 (10a) only, accessed by traversing from Xenolith Dance anchors.
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5.10c | ★★ Black Lung - with Ian Saunders | 30m, 11 | Cedar Park (John's Family Conservancy) | Sun 7th Apr 2019 | ||||
Really fun climbing. Fairly sustained lower half, but with a very obvious crux section. Upper part mostly 10a-ish, but super fun. Turkey vultures cruising around waiting for something to happen.
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5.10c | ★★ Captain Crunch - with deon | 9m, 5 | Squamish | Average | Sat 20th Apr 2019 | |||
Could be better than we thought, as 50% of the holds were wet. A lot or the rock is partially rotted. Quite a different start, followed by lots of pumpy sidepulls
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5.10b | ★★ Orange Appeal | 23m | The Boulderfields | ★ Good | Fri 28th Sep 2012 | |||
Couple of loose bits, but in general really good. Much better bolt spacing than Wonderbar Wall!
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5.10b | ★ A Trolls Sonnet | 10 | Squamish | ★ Good | Sat 12th Apr 2014 | |||
Sections of glassy slab just below bolts make for more fun climbing.
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5.10b | ★ Black Magic - with topher | 25m, 7 | Skaha | ★ Good | Sun 19th Apr 2015 | |||
5.10b | ★ Full Tilt Boogie | 25m, 11 | Skaha | ★★ Very Good | Mon 20th Apr 2015 | |||
Much better than expected. Full value with nice moves too.
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5.10a 5.10b | ★ Fine Lime | 15m, 6 | Skaha | ★ Good | Tue 21st Apr 2015 | |||
Much different to other things I've done at Skaha. Slopey! Felt hard for the grade...
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5.10b | ★★ Heavy Petting Action | 30m, 13 | Squamish | ★★ Very Good | Tue 28th Jun 2016 | |||
Unexpectedly long, and climbs very well. A bit confusing right at the top, trying not to cross onto the route to the left.
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5.10b | ★★ Blue Bull - with Janet | 15m, 7 | Skaha | ★ Good | Fri 29th Apr 2016 | |||
5.10b | ★★★ 2FA King (Unknown) | 15m, 9 | Horne Lake | ★ Good | Mon 8th Aug 2016 | |||
5.10b | ★ Raging Duck | 18m, 5 | Squamish | Average | Thu 8th Sep 2016 | |||
Not the best gear, and not the best climb!
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5.10b | ★ Viagra - with Spencer | 13m, 5 | Skaha | ★ Good | Sun 25th Jun 2017 | |||
5.10b | ★ Upper Black Dyke - with Alice | 150m, 31 | Squamish | ★ Good | Mon 15th Oct 2018 | |||
Final pitch only as part of Stairway to Heaven. A little dirty, and soaked on R side, but didn't touch anything wet until the top. A little chossy.
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5.10b | ★ Steeplechase P2 - with Janet and Shauna | 25m, 7 | Banff | ★ Good | Tue 2nd Jul 2019 | |||
Enjoyable, just a pity it's so short. Been so long since I climbed on limestone...
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5.10a | ★ Giant Kubasa (2) | 20m | The Boulderfields | ★ Good | Fri 28th Sep 2012 | |||
Still too many bolts, but slightly better, and nicer climbing
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5.10a | ★★ Dances with Pigs | 35m | Squamish | ★★ Very Good | Sat 12th Apr 2014 | |||
Good, but definitely aware of the runouts. A long, long way to the first bolt!
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5.10a | ★ 3M - with Tim | 20m | Sully's Hangout | ★★ Very Good | Thu 2nd Oct 2014 | |||
Really nice, but with one loose rock about 5m up.
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5.10a | ★★ Mental Gymnastics - with Janet | 20m | Skaha | ★ Good | Sun 19th Apr 2015 | |||
Nice for the first climb out side in ages. Getting used to using little footers again!
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5.10a | ★ Lunatic Fringe - with Janet | 25m | Skaha | ★★ Very Good | Sun 19th Apr 2015 | |||
5.10a | ★★ Rifle - with Barb | 26m, 8 | Squamish | ★ Good | Thu 30th Jul 2015 | |||
Some hardish moves for a 10a. Reasonably well bolted, but a fall on most of the route would be pretty shitty.
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5.10a 5.10- | ★★ Primal Dream - with Steve | 55m | Skaha | ★ Good | Fri 7th Aug 2015 | |||
Runout in places - could probably place some gear. There is a wasp nest in the overlap just after the second last bolt on p1.
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5.10a | ★★ Stouthearted | 34m, 10 | Skaha | ★★ Very Good | Mon 2nd May 2016 | |||
5.10a | ★★ Plum Line | 34m, 10 | Skaha | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 2nd May 2016 | |||
Definitely easier than the climbs to either side, but just such fun climbing!
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5.10a | ★ Homers Wake | 20m | Skaha | ★★ Very Good | Sat 30th Apr 2016 | |||
Good fun, making me think in a couple of spots
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5.10b 5.10a | ★★ Odyssey | 22m, 9 | Skaha | ★★ Very Good | Sat 30th Apr 2016 | |||
Definite cruxy section near the top
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5.10a | ★★ Black Acid | 14m, 7 | Skaha | ★★★ Classic | Sat 30th Apr 2016 | |||
Great fun, Steep and juggy with incut sidepulls.
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5.10a | ★ Isa's Eyes | 25m | Horne Lake | Average | Sat 6th Aug 2016 | |||
Sharp rock! Becomes more fun with height.
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5.10a | ★ Mr. Ciechanowski - with Alice | 25m | Squamish | Average | Mon 15th Oct 2018 | |||
Beware. The massive jug on the right after the roof is flexing, and will break off soon.
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5.9 | ★ Hot Chocolate (Arbutus Tree) | 15m | Lighthouse Park | Average | Thu 16th Aug 2007 | |||
5.9 | ★ Copy Cat (3) | 18m | The Boulderfields | ★ Good | Fri 28th Sep 2012 | |||
Almost felt like I was going to pull the first massive jug off. Well bolted.
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5.9 | ★ Your Other Left (Unnamed 2) - with Tim | 13m, 7 | Sully's Hangout | ★ Good | Thu 2nd Oct 2014 | |||
A bit easy for 5.9 I think
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5.9 | ★★ Undertaker | 18m | Cypress Falls Park | ★★ Very Good | Sun 3rd May 2015 | |||
A bit wet and very dirty start, but lots of fun.
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5.9 | Danceannette | 9m, 4 | Skaha | Crap | Tue 21st Apr 2015 | |||
5.9 | ★ I Might Possibly Consider That | 21m, 7 | Squamish | Average | Thu 30th Jul 2015 | |||
5.9 | ★★ Blue du Jour | 23m, 9 | Squamish | Average | Thu 30th Jul 2015 | |||
Very dodgy rock in middle section needs cleaning off when no-one's below.
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5.10a 5.9 | Moss Pit - with Barb | 12m | Sully's Hangout | Crap | Tue 29th Sep 2015 | |||
Not that mossy since someone cleaned it, but still as good as the name sounds. Shitty cruxy move off the ground and then shitty climbing above that.
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5.10a 5.9 | ★★ Sagging Bumline | 36m, 9 | Skaha | ★★★ Classic | Mon 2nd May 2016 | |||
The new guide gives it 5.9, but it's harder than Plum Line and Stout Hearted, especially near the top. Good run-outs!
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5.9 | ★ Piggy Monster | 24m, 8 | Skaha | ★ Good | Sat 30th Apr 2016 | |||
Felt tough for a 5.9 warm-up! But perhaps I'm just soft.
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5.9 | ★ lliad - with Janet | 25m | Skaha | Fri 29th Apr 2016 | ||||
5.9 | ★★ Fathers Day - with Janet | 22m | Skaha | Fri 29th Apr 2016 | ||||
5.9 | ★★★ Star Chek - with Gregory | 85m, 16 | Cheakamus Canyon | Average | Sat 10th Aug 2019 | |||
Not that great. Very nice setting, but the climbing isn't amazing considering the other quality routes that grade in the general area, and some sections of bolting are just plain weird.
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5.8 | ★ Batman and Robin (1) | 20m | The Boulderfields | Average | Fri 28th Sep 2012 | |||
Bolts at your waist while clipping the next!
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5.8 | ★ No Nuts Needed (4) | 16m | The Boulderfields | Average | Fri 28th Sep 2012 | |||
5.8 | ★ White Knuckle Express | 18m, 7 | Skaha | ★ Good | Mon 20th Apr 2015 | |||
5.8 | ★ Professional Belay Slaves | 18m, 7 | Skaha | Average | Mon 20th Apr 2015 | |||
5.8 | ★★ I'm Not Against It | 26m, 9 | Squamish | ★ Good | Thu 30th Jul 2015 | |||
5.8 | ★★ Jugs, Not Drugs - with barb | 15m, 5 | Squamish | ★ Good | Mon 3rd Sep 2018 | |||
Fun, juggy gym climbing. Pity it's so short.
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5.7 | ★★ Hair on a G String - with Ian Saunders | 16m, 5 | Skaha | ★ Good | Sat 6th Apr 2019 | |||
Actually felt like climbing.
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5.7 | ★ Give Me Face - with Ian Saunders | 24m, 10 | Cedar Park (John's Family Conservancy) | ★★ Very Good | Sun 7th Apr 2019 | |||
5.7 | ★ Steeplechase P1 - with Janet and Shauna | 12m, 3 | Banff | Average | Tue 2nd Jul 2019 | |||
5.6 | ★ Ivy League | 18m, 6 | Skaha | ★ Good | Mon 20th Apr 2015 | |||
5.12a | ★★★ Orrgazmo - with Jed | 20m, 10 | Skaha | ★★★ Classic | Sun 9th Aug 2015 | |||
Climbed it really well, but would have been harder without Jed calling out every hold.
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5.11a | ★ Junk Yard Patio | 18m, 5 | Cheakamus Canyon | ★ Good | Fri 10th Jul 2015 | |||
Short, but quite fun mid-section
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5.11a | ★★★ Good Times - with Steve and Alice | 25m, 11 | Squamish | ★★★ Classic | Sat 1st Aug 2015 | |||
Really fun finish.
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5.11a | ★★ Cytotoxic - with Jed | 26m, 11 | Skaha | ★★ Very Good | Sun 9th Aug 2015 | |||
Tricky after a couple of days on steep, juggy stuff
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5.11a | ★★ Typical Squamish - with Deano | 20m, 8 | Squamish | ★★ Very Good | Wed 29th Jun 2016 | |||
Climbed after Deano. It might be dirtier than a lot of the other climbs here, but it climbs really well.
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5.11a | ★★ Underwire | 25m, 8 | Squamish | ★ Good | Tue 28th Jun 2016 | |||
Good fun, with a thankfully good jug after the roof.
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5.11a | ★★ Lee'king - with Deano | 20m | Horne Lake | ★ Good | Sat 6th Aug 2016 |