Ascents in Vancouver Island having Beta

Fist ever climb on limestone, so damn fun!

Dirty start into a single hard move then 5.6 to the top and two draws are super easy to miss

bring your cams

My first outdoor attempt. I even cannot top clean this 5.8. Really enjoyed sea breeze of that day.

One move wonder.

One slip and one sit. Would definitely feel soft with a bit of endurance. Almost all jugs, with a couple of great rests on the way.

One fall going for the big hole (end of the crux?), and lowered off for Deano to have another go.

Pumped out the first time, got it second go just fine. Easy moves, just steep!

Found the mid-height crux hard, but apparently I missed a pocket...Almost let go just before the anchors. Just the one go. Couple of falls midway, and one sit higher up.

Had a fall at the flake just before the chert bands. For some reason, we thought there was only 9 bolts on the second pitch, but there's 12! Super pumpy just before the chert bands, easing off after second bolt into chert.

Got too pumped trying to figure which way to go. Not the most inspiring route here.

Sharp rock! Becomes more fun with height.

Above the ledge took central line where bolt is. A bit confusing that next bolt zigs 2m left and then just a meter and a half after that 3rd bolt zags back right. I clipped the 1st and 3rd bolts above ledge, keeping the rope straight. The second bolt seemed superfluous being so close to the 3rd. Thought I might have been off-route, because observed two top rope ascents that went up far left side closer to 2nd bolt line.

It’s all about the last move!

Look carefully and a variety of small ledge options will eventually present a 10a combo that lets one walk up the crux. Short route, but good challenge for the grade.

Sandbagged at 10a. Definitely a quality climb!

Better as a layback crack than an arete climb.

Excellent Climb! Fun moves, good jams and quality rock.

Lower sandstone section is excellent and balancy. The quality declines near the top, where there's crumbly conglomerate rock reminiscent of kitty litter. Fun climb, though.

Good quality! Has a few sneaky holds which foiled my onsight.

Excellent!

I'd forgotten how pumpy this route can be!

Great, hidden gem of a crack climb. The conglomerate midsection is definitely a thinker!

Excellent route. The crux is in the middle where the crack flares. Generally takes gear well, except at the crux. Place a few good pieces before it.

I took the 5.9 variation up the much smaller crack to the left.

One move wonder. But still pretty fun.

Bailed off as second couldn't continue

Excellent route with good jams

Meh. Short, kinda dull, and the crack is pretty useless.

Meh. Uninspiring climbing, though the mantle is fun. It seems kinda contrived, as it's incredibly easy to just use the arete and go off route. Not really worth your time.

Fun moves!

Fun!

Finally got the beta and finished! Gonna get it clean next time!

Kinda runout up top...

Great slopes and crimps lower down!

Would be a tough start for the 5.9/10a leader. Guidebooks grade this 10a. Fun, slightly desperate moves off the deck. Crux is first two bolts, then tapers off. Good route!

Super fun moves, with a great technical start. Worthy climb!

Yeah! Finally nailed it!

Meh. Interesting moves, but not particularly memorable.

A truly excellent route and good lead! Now fully bolted.

Excellent route! Strenuous moves down low, and thin, balancey moves above. Quality!

Excellent, challenging route! Unfortunately, the crux was wet.

Got the crux move. Now, let's put it together!