Routes as alpine in Vancouver Island

West face couloir.

"Standard route"

Grade: AD 5.7 (III)

A traverse of all three peaks of Triple peak. Start at the foot of the East Tower. 3 pitches of slabs and vertical bushwacking bring you to the base of a clean slabby face. The FAists went over this, while we took an exposed 5.9 traverse around the left (south) side, starting with a dihedral behind a big tree. The final pitch of the East tower follows a gearless arete. From here scramble to the top.

Exposed scrambling and one steep rappel off a root leads to snow, and eventually to the South East Ridge up the Main Tower. Scramble or climb a few pitches (two pitons protect the low fifth crux). Descend the North Ridge route with two rappels.

Traverse on snow to the col between the Main and North Tower. Follow the East Ridge route up the North Tower, which involves either vertical bushwacking or adventuring onto some handcracks out right, half way up the tower. Scrambling leads to the North Tower summit.

Follow the scramblers ridge to descend to the lake, eventually passing the right (north) side of the main gendarme on a treed ledge. Stay high at the end of the ledge to gain the backside of the gendarme. One more rappel leads to some easy snow slopes and slabs down to the lake.

Standard route up the middle peak of Triple Peak. While graded 4th class in Island Alpine, we were happy to have a rope. p1: low fifth blocky terrain from the snow to a grassy ledge, and a slung boulder. p2: up a short corner groove, then a short hand crack to a slung boulder. p3: scramble underneath a giant chockstone, then climb up and behind it. From here, scramble to the summit.

It climbs a magnificent island feature in a remote and lightly traveled zone.