Routes as sport in Vancouver Island

Nanaimo’s First 5.14! The short and burly route right of The Generation Gap. This route features powerful moves between sharp holds. Hard Nanaimo climbing at its finest!

From the Dissidence ledge go left, eventually you’ll find a power endurance, crimpy, tufa wrangling crux! Can be very condition dependent.

As for ADATO but head right from the double knee bar rest

Extensions to GG. Thin, sustained, face climbing with a big crux. Probably the best line on the wall.

Starts right of The Baobab Tree then shares a bit of climbing with Prince Gizzard and the Luna Wizard before continuing straight through the steepest part of the wall.

Shares the first 3 bolts with Globetrotters. At the roof take the left line of bolts out the roof.

A link up of "Jesus Save the Pushers" (13a) and "ADATO" (14b). Climb "ADATO" until the double kneebar rest, then bust left into "Jesus Save the Pushers" continue for the remainder of "Jesus Save the Pushers".

A link up of "Jesus Save the Pushers" (13a) and "ADATO". Climb the first 2 bolts of the "Jesus Save the Pushers" extension then continue rightwards into "ADATO" just above the double kneebar rest. Continue for the remainder of "ADATO".

Climbs through the first crux of pushers then heads left into a rest before a long sustained boulder problem.

Climb Divine Swine into Dinosaur Highway

The hardest variation of The Shaman. Start on The Shaman, then go right for two bolts on The Fortuneteller. Then go straight up the blankest part of the wall (5.13a), with the Redpoint crux being the bulge (V6).

Climb Supernova to the last bolt, then head up and slightly left to a bolt above the overlap. Link into the start of the Dark Matter crux.

Climb The Borg into Dark Matter via a brief but powerful boulder problem.

Start up Silence in Suburbia, downclimb the crux of Moment of Silence into the Fast Cat traverse, climb the traverse into the anchors of Globetrotters

Climb Smooth Bore/Motivation to the left edge of the big rest hole shared with Dino. Continue straight up and finish as for Dinosaur Highway. Rope drag is a factor.

Extension to Code of Honour

(Open)

Originally aided as “Lotus Eater” A1+. The rightmost variation of “The Shaman”. Start on the same V9 boulder problem, then follow the rightmost bolted line to the top.

Originally aided as “Lanterns And Kahlua” A0, with an extension known as “Becca’s Route” A2. Now freed in one whole route. Starts with a V9 boulder problem, and ends with a 5.12b face to the top.

Climb through the small roof and past two draws at the start of Ginger Goodwin, and then head right.

Rene monjo's envisioned line that climbs between Brilliant Disguise and Feed your Monkey. Start to the left of the bolt line to not share holds on the beginning of Feed your Monkey.

One of two extensions to You Enjoy Myself (11a), shares the first bolt with Moment of Silence, (13c) which continues rightwards. Fast Cat moves leftwards and joins Globetrotters at the lip of the cave, then finish for Globe.

This line runs between Highway Robbery and Desperados. Climbs up four bolts to where it then links into the last bolt of the 13b Highway Robbery and finishes on shared anchor. Short and sweet power endurance crimp line. The hard moves are over when you arrive at the 4th bolt but don't blow clipping it!

Start up Enhance Your Stance and cut over to Chinese Water Torture after the third bolt (on arete). Stick chain draw

The direct line up the main arete, shares the last three bolts with Family Vacation. (Stick chain draw for safety)

The technical route that navigates the black streak. Grade may change due to poor rock quality.

Shares the same start as Dark Matter but heads straight up instead of right at the Y. The start is located between The Baobab Tree and The Borg.

The extension to The Baobab Tree.

The second pitch of Quarter Century Girl 12a. Might need some bolts and anchors to be moved.

Located climbers right of the Llama Ledge.

Has really great reviews. Much different style then routes close by it.

Just right of the fixed line heading to the Easter Egg wall. Powerful, thin, and techy. Different style from the typical Horne Lake climbs.

The easier version of “Crank”. Skip the first 5 desperately hard bolts of “Crank” by starting on “Brilliant Disguise” and splitting right and traversing into “Crank” where the extra bolt has been added.

Start up Brilliant Disguise. At the sixth bolt (at the obvious undercling slot) go right on a new line for seven more bolts. Final crux is getting to the anchors. Tall people might try to clip the anchor from lower down but this might drop the grade. And this would certainly avoid the thrill of the final moves.

This route is the extension of a 12a called holy upsettas at the boss wall above the famous amphitheater in horne lake. It was bolted by Rene Monjo who is a prolific local hard man. The name of the route refers to the crux in which you are climbing in beautiful black limestone and it is also an reference to the name of the crag. This a 110ft route, so bring a 70m rope.

Start on Subdivisions for 5 bolts. Where Subdivisions cuts hard right, clip a bolt out left and follow the lip of the Amphitheatre up left past a reachy crux. Keep following the lip up and left to join Moment of Silence at the last bolt. Finish on the Moment of Silence anchor.

One of two extensions to You Enjoy Myself (11a), shares the first bolt with Fast Cat, (13c) which continues leftward to join Globetrotters. Moment of Silence bypass the second draw in the roof and instead you clip the draw out right. Then continue to a bouldery crux at the lip of the roof.

6th climb when moving from left to right along the cliff. Right of the cave you’ll see 3 bolts. Hardest part is seemingly before the 1st bolt. Very overhanging & bouldery! (Extension of the V9 Trans-Siberian Express)

route to the left of Plight of the Pyramids

Start in the crack system until 2nd bolt, then follow the bolt line to the anchors. Stay right of the 4th bolt.

Start on the slab to the left of Mandyno. Then power through the corner on the right side of the large roof.

The first 13 in Nanaimo. A dyno to a poor hold constitutes the crux.

Up the middle of the overhanging wall, a nice line finishing at the anchors at 3/4 height. The extension is a project.

New line (2020) directly right of Navigating the Cosmos. Steep and sustained.

A link-up of Navigating the Cosmos and Beyond Infinity. Start on Beyond Infinity then traverse over to Navigating the Cosmos in the steep section. Continue for Navigating the Cosmos.

First route you coming to at the wall, after the first bolt trend right on the slab.

Starts right of The Borg. Shares an anchor with Thrutching for the Stars.

The beginning of Dark Matter to the Baobab Tree anchors.

Extension to there are no trees on mars.

The thin flake mentioned by Alex in April '19 (around bolt 5) had indeed broken by August '19. That part now feels like a tense vertical stemming/gaston boulder problem. I'm not sure how much easier the original holds made it, but the redpoint crux or cruxes are surely higher where things steepen. Excellent climb!

Alternate leftwards ending to the Born to Run extension. Split left just before the final roof and head into a burly boulder problem followed by pumpy climbing to the chains.

Start on Subdivisions for 5 bolts. Where Subdivisions cuts hard right, clip a bolt out left and follow the lip of the Amphitheatre up left past a reachy crux. Clip another bolt straight up then pull the lip to a good stance. One more tricky face sequence gets you to the anchor.

Climb Under The Umbrella, then continue out right along roof crack.

5 bolts. Small holdson overhanging rock. A stenuous start on a thin layback and side pulls.

First pitch is 11a

A very easy opening slab leads to an opening boulder crux, followed by a good rest then V4/5 climbing to the top with a heartbreaker finish.

The extension to Electric Eel. Traverse under the roof after the anchors of Electric Eel. Very pumpy.

Extension to Huey P. Newton. Bonus points if you top out the mini-ledge.

Extension of Sacrificial Goat. It's much longer than it looks. Less than a 70m and you'll need to lower twice.

Starts left of Star Gazer up a mellow ramp then continues through a short steep roof to finish on The Borg anchor.

The big horizontal crack feature that traverse up and right. Finishes on the cube feature.

Fourth route from the left. Shares the last bolt and anchor with the route to its left (Le Petit Prince). The extension is a closed project.

Left of The Body, the first pitch follows the obvious shallow white corner (5.12c/d). The second pitch (5.11b) follows the left facing flake and proceeds upwards towards a roof and three bolts.

Shares the first two bolts with Moonraker then continues leftwards out the steep roof. After pulling the lip it is possible to cut right back into the top of Moonraker (original finish), however the line continues straight up for two more bolts before finishing at the Mookraker anchor.

The left hand route off the ledge just above the lip of the amphitheater.

The furthest left route in the amphitheater. The route trends leftwards above the Century Wall. Watch for loose rock near the top.

Grade is an estimate

Grade is an estimate

Start on Mumbo Jumbo for the first four bolts, then traverse left onto the slightly overhanging face. Crux is near the top.

The best hard route in Nanaimo.

Start up the slab heading towards the line of bolts heading directly through the middle of the roof. A pumpy sequence on good holds.

Re-cleaned August 2022. Multiple footholds and handholds broke off, making the grade more around 5.12c.

Start just left of the big overhang, climb until you can traverse to the right above it then finish up the right arete.

The route at the far left of the crag that tackles the large overhang, quite powerful. 4 bolts are permadraws.

This is the second extension to Born to Run, not sure on the grade.

Also known as "Pasta Blaster". This is the extension to Moonraker. A 70m rope is required to lower, otherwise lower down to the Moonraker anchor and re-lower form there.

The second to last route on the left side of the cave. Start on the furthest left ledge by the tree stump above Quarter Century Girl. The route trends slightly left before continue straight up a tufa. Originally ended one bolt earlier, the anchors were moved after a block came loose.