Showing all 44 routes.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
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5.12a | |||||
5.12a | ★ (unnamed 1)
Climb the bolted face between Direttissisma and Peggy. Traditionally the large block to the right is considered off route. | 4 | |||
5.11a | |||||
5.11a | ★★ Joy Of Life
Climb the face to the right of Peggy. 5 bolts & gear. FA: Peter Slivka, 1994 | 26m, 5 | |||
5.11a | ★ Direttissisma
Follow the bolts straight up the overhanging wall. After gaining the ledge, continue past two more bolts to reach the anchor. Although easy climbing, it is significantly runout between the last bolt and the anchor. Some gear placements are available. FA: J Flamand, 1965 FFA: Peter Slivka, 1994 | 5 | |||
5.11- | |||||
Closed Right Side | |||||
5.11- | The Thin Red Line
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5.10 | |||||
Closed Right Side | |||||
5.10 | Built for Speed
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5.10 | Walk on the Wild Side
FA: S. Adcock & J Prokopiak, 1985 | ||||
5.10c | |||||
5.10c | ★★ The Original Route
Start below a cave about 6m off the ground, and climb up to its right-hand side. Pull through the cave & roof as you can (left side, direct, right-side -- all have choices) to a bolt. Follow the bolts to the shared anchor at top. FA: J Flamand, 1965 FFA: J Cotter & S Adcock, 1984 | 25m | |||
5.10b | |||||
5.10b | Golden Ninja
Starts to the left of Direttissisma for the first three bolts and then finishes on the same anchor. | ||||
Closed Cotter Crack | |||||
5.10b | ★★ Cotter Crack
Climb the crack splitting the buttress to the anchors on top. The crack starts as a finger crack and ends as an arm crack. FFA: S Adcock & J Prokopiak - 1984 FA: R Halka, S Adcock & J Cotter - 1984 | ||||
5.10- R | |||||
5.10- R | Rupert Bear (direct start)
Start as per "Rupert Bear Goes Hiking", but climb directly up and leftwards towards the thin crack and bolt. Poorly protected until the ledge is reached. FA: R Chisnal & B Baxter | 24m, 4 | |||
5.9 | |||||
5.9 | ★ (unnamed 3)
Just left of Piton Highway is a sparse set of bolts heading up parallel to it. Climb the line defined by these bolts to an anchor a couple meters left of the Piton Highway anchor. | 25m, 4 | |||
5.9 | ★ (unnamed 2)
Starting a few meters left of Piton highway, there is a low bolt, start up to this, pulling the initial overhang very close to (unnamed 3) then follow the line of bolts that angles leftwards up the cliff. FA: 2008 | 25m, 7 | |||
5.9 | ★★ Lavender
5 bolts + gear. About 6m left of Piton Highway, climb up diagonally right to a small notch in the overhang, pull over at the right side of this notch, then traverse back leftwards to a thin crack (bolt). Climb up this, then up and leftwards following bolts to below the final anchor and straight up to it. Shares anchor with "The Original Route" and Rupert Bear. Excellent climbing throughout FA: J Flamand, 1965 FFA: J Goldack, 1975 | 25m, 5 | |||
5.9 | ★★ Rupert Bear Goes Hiking
Start 6m right of of the arete of "Peggy". At a place where there is horizontal finger crack in the bright pink rock. Climb up angling slightly rightwards towards the cave, then hand-traverse leftwards to a ledge below a crack that rises diagonally rightwards (visible bolt). Climb up this crack rightwards, then generally up and right following bolts to a shared anchor with "The Original Route" and "Lavender". FA: J Flamand ('60s), 1965 FFA: S Adcock & B Parior, 1979 | 25m, 4 | |||
5.9 X | |||||
5.9 X | ★ Little Yellow Fucker
About halfway between Broken Corner and "Crack and Block" there is a faint vertical crack splitting the upper part of the face, start on some good holds then work your way up to the crack (the edge of the wide crack on the right is part of "Crack and Block", not this climb). No protection for the first part (the hard part), so top-rope (anchors for Broken Corner) may be preferred. This is more of a V2 boulder problem, top-roped (because of the tumble-off at the landing) than a climbing route. FA: G Jackson, 1994 | 10m | |||
5.8 | |||||
5.8 | ★ Patriation
Start as for "Peggy". Climb up to the square block, then pass it on the left. From the top of the block, make a rising traverse leftwards to the arete, to join "Arete and Ramp". . FFA: P Reilly, P Millette & D Lowrie, 1986 | 1 | |||
Closed Right Side | |||||
5.8 | Turkey Vultures (var)
FA: R. Halka, S. Adcock & J. Prokopiak, 1985 | ||||
5.7 | |||||
5.7 | ★★ Piton Highway
At the far right of the climbable area, look for the obvious left-facing vertical corner. Climb this direct to a short wall, then up to a pair of bolts for anchors. A couple of bolts have recently been added in places that used to be protect by old pitons. There are a couple variations: Piton Arete: use the Arete to bypass the hard moves in the corner. 5.6. Piton Byway: follow Piton Highway to the hard moves, traverse right on big holds, then up right of the Arete. 5.6 FA: E Marshall & D Wotherspoon, 1968 | 25m, 2 | |||
5.7 | ★★★ Peggy
A prominent left facing corner 10m to the right of Arete and Ramp. Climb up to a square block. Pass it on the right, then continue up the corner, using the arete as desired. Finish up a short wall. Opening move onto the initial ramp is unusually difficult, then rest of the climb goes at a comfortable 5.5. FA: D Haumann & M Peer, 1959 | 25m, 1 | |||
5.7 | ★ One Up
About 2m left of Main Corner is a thin crack that leads up to a ledge and a continuation of the crack above the ledge. 2 Bolts as anchors. | 10m | |||
5.6 | |||||
5.6 | Piton Byway
Follow "Piton Highway" to the first hard moves at the foot of the corner. Traverse 1m right on huge holds. Go straight up, keeping slightly right of Piton Highway/Arete until the final wall. Finish as per "Piton Highway". Or, for a longer variation, start above the leaning boulder at the belay and climb directly up from there to the face right of the arete, and continue staying completely right of the line of Piton Highway/Arete until the finishing moves at the anchor. | 25m, 1 | |||
5.6 | ★ Piton Arete
Start the same as "Piton Highway". Gain the arete and climb bypassing the corner. Finish as for "Piton Highway". | 25m | |||
5.6 | ★★ Magical Mystery Tour
Starts on the ramp just right of "Peggy" -- the lower of the two parallel ramps.
Original PG/R, but now can borrow bolts from several climbs that it crosses in what was, formerly, the badly run-out section, meaning it now is quite well protected. Also, it can be climbed in a single pitch rope lengthwise, but two pitches is advisable for rope-drag issues. | 2, 4 | |||
Closed Right Side | |||||
5.6 | No Face for a Termagant
FA: R. Halka & S. Adcock, 1985 | ||||
5.6 | Crapaud Cling
FA: Brian Dawkins, 1968 | ||||
5.6 G | |||||
5.6 G | ★★ Dihedral and Arete
Start one terrace down from Back to the Wall. Climb up the dihedrals to a couple ledges, then finish up the arete above. This is one of the better protected climbs on this section of the cliff. This has been climbed as a top-rope variation from the "Back to the Wall", but has recently had its own anchor installed and a bit of cleanup done on the route itself. | 17m | |||
5.6 X | |||||
Closed Right Side | |||||
5.6 X | April Fools
FA: S. Adcock, R Halka & J Cotter, 1984 | ||||
5.6 X | Cracked Jug
FA: Mike Poushinsky & Chris Gardiner, 1966 | ||||
5.5 | |||||
Closed Right Side | |||||
5.5 | Turkey Vultures
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5.4 | |||||
Closed Right Side | |||||
5.4 | Zug
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5.4 | Toot
FA: Ron Halka, Heather Norris & S. Adcock, 1984 | ||||
5.4 | Twinkle Toes
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5.3 | |||||
5.3 | ★ Back to the Wall
Start about 6m right of the Main Corner, and climb the face up to a 2-bolt anchor. Lots of variations possible. | 15m | |||
5.3 | ★ Inside Corner
Starts a meter or so right of Main Corner, then up onto a sloping ledge (ramp) and upwards to the corner above. 2 bolts for anchor. | 15m | |||
5.3 | ★ Main Corner
The obvious "main corner". 2 bolts for an anchor at top. FA: S Heiberg & D Weichert, 1961 | 15m | |||
5.3 | ★ Crack and Block
Climb the obvious crack that leads to blocks about 3m right of the arete (Broken Corner). Variations around the "block" are possible. FA: unknown | 10m | |||
5.3 | ★ Broken Corner
The left-most named climb on the Main Corner area, it goes up the Arete at the foot of the ascent/descent gully. Variations branching out on the wall to the left of the Arete are possible. 2 bolt anchor at top. FA: Adof Bauer, 1959 | 9m | |||
Closed Right Side | |||||
5.3 | Ivy Traverse
FA: Brian Dawkins & P. T. Coleridge, 1969 | ||||
5.3 PG | |||||
5.3 PG | ★ Arete and Ramp
Start just left of the major arete right of main corner. Move up to a large ledge on the right. Traverse down and rightwards along the ledge to the end end, and a bolted anchor. (Optional belay, anchor is for a sport climb below.) Head up the crack to the right then continue diagonal up and right ending at the anchors for "Peggy". Not often climbed anymore, so a bit dirty and licheny. Also occasionally run-out, and committing for a 5.3 -- not a good early lead. | 25m | |||
5.2 | |||||
Closed Right Side | |||||
5.2 | Dirty Do
FA: Mike Peer, 1959 | ||||
5.1 | |||||
5.1 | K5
Climb up the main corner to a ledge, traverse left along the ledge then exit at "Crack and Block". FA: | ||||
5.0 | |||||
Closed Right Side | |||||
5.0 | Inverted Caterpillar
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5.0 | ★ Long Climb
Start at the foot of the lowest buttress of Home Cliff.
FA: John Wheeler, 1959 | 80m, 2 | |||
5.0 | Rothery Traverse
FA: Brian Rothery |
Showing all 44 routes.