Ascents in Squamish having Beta

The crux is low, but the climbing is a pleasure right to the top. Nice and long.

Some trickier jams than expected, fun movement.

To clean an anchor, still fun.

On the stiffer side of 5.4.

Actually liked this better than Cat Crack, really fun moves and fun to protect.

Amazing little multi, great views and lots of blue jays.

Splitter, much tougher (and more painful) than Cat Crack at the same grade. Guide book recommends triples and I would as well if you're not feeling too confident, I did it with doubles and there were some pretty significant runouts (tricams would work really well if you need to supplement, I wish I brought mine).

Got stuck behind a slow party teaching themselves to multipitch and place gear... painfully slow.

Great solo... 22 minutes to the top past 2 parties.

Upper pitches were wet that day. We topped out in the dark, and I nearly almost decided to hang it up after the full splits on mercy me.

2nd go

2nd go. Inspired by Anna. She also taught me to place offset RPs. Miss climbing with you

but wet start. bring a towel and a brush for the chalk sludge.

P1. (5.7) Scramble and pull a few trees - and the occasional crack - till you reach lower baseline ledge, belay off a tree.

P2. St Vitus Direct (10a) layback, gets some seepage even after a few days of dry weather. Requires some smaller cams or nuts.

P3. (5.9) Will feel like the crux if you aren't used to wider jamming. A long crack leads to a good ledge for belay. Saving a #3 for the anchor is essential. 3 x #3 was useful. Two to create the anchor at the top of pitch three and one during the next lead. Some pictures suggest there's a bolt at pitch 3 anchor, there isn't, all anchors are gear.

P4. (5.9) Climb an obvious traverse, across the crack systems. Awkward bulge into a nice ramp and gear belay.

P5. (5.9) This is considered the crux pitch. It's exposed but easily passed in a few short moves into slabbier ground.

With a 70m you can link Pitch 5 & 6 with a with just enough rope to reach the tree-line. Anything less, sling the tree above P5. and split the pitches.

Absolutely ran up this with Fraser! Super fun climbing!

Felt slippery but very good crack

Fun climbing but the super run out slabs aren't my fav

Started raining half way up and holy heck this 8 pitch unprotected friction slab was completely fucked

Super fun sequences, very fun climb!

Did the last four pitches to get to the top after the grand wall!

Had to aid through the fist roof move, super fun climb!

Really good! Got it second shot

Really cool way to get to the top of the cheif, we finished up high plains drifter for the last two pitches.

Onsight simul with Sam into the Grand Wall. He led and I raced behind him.

Successful onsight simul (for me, Sam had done it before) with Sam. We left the carpark at 5pm and were back down just after 9. Probably about 3 hours on the route including Apron Strings. Sam led the whole way and I haphazardly followed trying to remember how to climb on granite. We simuled through Apron Strings to the top of the split pillar in one pitch , pitched out the 5.11s, and then simuled to the top. Not a bad afternoon after trying Tainted Love in the morning. Shenanigans.

My best belay tick. Also the best rock climb in the universe. Time to deaden those nerve endings and practice my mono bicep curls.

It has holds, is just standing, and yet it’s still so hard. Spent two days up there belaying Victoria who came agonisingly close multiple times. Had a great day where I belayed her very almost send in the morning then ran to Cobra Crack to belay Adrian on his actual send of that. Unreal times in the Canadian Forest. My friends are so fucking cool. Walking is hard.

my first trad lead.

with mike and brad. onsight attempt ended at perry's layback. lead pitch 2, split pillar and the flats.

first 7b after injury. took 7 goes. should have been 5!

One of the best I've climbed/seen

Enjoyed it

Really fun

Very aesthetic line. Great moves as well

Tried hard for the flash

10c according to guide book

Friction slab autobahn

1 try

Very nice!

Pretty much done after the first 3 moves....

Worst rope burn.... so far.

Sandbagged when compared to the 11b directly to the left.

Offset cams can come in handy…

Short and bouldery. One more move to figure out.