Routes in Squamish for selected grade

From the top of the apron take the trail towards the Squamish Buttress.

P1: face climb past a small roof and one bolt, then follow broken cracks and face holds up and left to a tree anchor

P2: Climb more broken cracks left towards a large ledge and belay from a tree

P1 & 2 can be linked with a 70m rope.

P3&4: Moderate climbing up broken 5.7 terrain.

P5: climb the vertical crack over some broken terrain to a tree anchor below the white 10c corner. \

P6: Thre wicked-looking steep, white corner. Jam and stem your way to the top! The top is the crux but can be easily aided with good gear. The fixed pin mentioned in guide books is long gone, but there are good nut placements instead.

An awesome finger crack

P1 - 5.8/5.9. 40m. Continue trending up and left to a bolt belay.

P2 - 10b/c. Up the obvious crack, pull the roof, and then up a balancy finger crack. Sustained once you pull the roof all the way to the top. 35m

P3 - 10a/b? We took the middle crack, though there are also options left and right at the same grade. 40m to a bolted belay on the dirt ledge. Don't be confused by the rap anchor down and to the right. Short crux.

P4 - 10b. 30m. Best pitch on the route. Long, sustained fingers and hands in a groove. We TRd the 10b chimney/flare to the right which was fun on TR. You'd want bigger gear (some #4s) to lead it.

Climb over some blocks and across a layback traverse. Then follow the bolts around the arete to a set of discontinued cracks. Beware of rope drag.

Climb up the layback flake

A tribute to a friend, stellar climber and awesome human Marc Andre LeClerc (1992 - 2018 (RIP). Fun face climbing on either side of right arete.

Quality crimps and slopers up the Arete.

Up corner then step R through overlaps.

Short and sweet. First route you encounter.

The part on the face of this route is bolted. Leads into thin inconsistent crack. Some pro may be used. 10a variation is to go around the arete right after the last bolt. and layback on the flake

Fun, featured, and physical liebacking. Packs a punch for such a short route.

Through low overlap then up thin crack

One of the harder, but more interesting slab climbs on the apron. Mostly bolted and likey empty.

Climbs along the face of the boulder. Starts with hands under the bulge on good edges

finger-sized jams lead to a technical crux at the top. save some thin gear!

Start on the slab to the right of Easy Skankin' up into a nice crack and finish on the Easy Skankin' route.

thin short crack. Getting a bit greasy in some of the holds. sling a big tree to the right for a anchor. Top-ropeable if you walk up to the right of the climb to the tree at the top.

Follow a technical, angling ramp. For 5.10b, step up at the second-to-last bolt and foot traverse the ramp.

Rap in off of Jacobs Wall to a ledge, then rap down another 40m to the base of Quagmire Crack. a boulder start leads to a finger to offwidth crack back to mid ledge then out by Jacobs ladder or one of the other slab routes on "Jacobs Wall"

Guidebook description; “a proud tick by those capable and delivers a good adrenaline rush to all but the most seasoned of slab climbers-legendary friction route”. First 2 pitches of dièdre (trad) before trending right onto open slab for 5 pitches of friction climbing with spaced bolts. Take #1 Camelot for the overlap in .10B pitch. Join final pitch of dièdre (small gear in corner). Tree belay.

The largest corner on the cliff, visible from anywhere in Squamish. Starts up Birds of Prey, stepping right to the base of the corner at 55m. Pitch 3 can be split in two with chains at 25m if needed.

Begin with Staples of the Gluten Intolerant but continue straight up the corner to some small roofs. Finish with some face climbing and slanted ledges. Good 2-3 size cam between bolt 2 and 3.

Crack to alcove below roof then up left into dihedral

Starts up the right side of the same groove as "The Relish Route", before veering right.

1. 5.6, 5 bolts, 25m

2. 5.10c, 7 bolts, 20m

3. 5.10b, 4 bolts, 15m

4. 5.7, 7 bolts, 33m

P1 can be done as a 1-pitch route from the ground. P4 can be done as a 1-pitch route from the upper ledge.

On Sloppy Poppy. Starts right and climbs up left along juggy rail

P1 Start up Centerfold but break left on a foot traverse just before the first bolt. continue on this rail until you pass a bolted rap station (Optional belay) shortly after you will hit a vertical 1" crack leading up to a ledge with a belay station on the left.

P2 Step left from the anchors along a foot rail passing one bolt, at the second bolt head vertically up the wall to the roof. clip the bolts at the lip of the roof and traverse left on polished feet to the anchors for Hairpin.

P3 Traverse a rail to the right of the hairpin anchors to an airy belay on a small ledge.

P4 Follow the bolt line above the anchors to the slightly runout finish of Centrefold.

On the right side of the cliff are 3 bolts, with a high first bolt.

Boulder through the tough, thin, and probably unprotectable start to a stance where it gets slightly less steep to clip the first bolt. (Or use a really long stick-clip.) Then climb the thin face up from there.

This route has it all, from hand jams to fist cams, slot climbing, and delicate slab. you can use this route to link into P3 of the Squamish Buttress/ Butt Light

P1: climb a hand crack through a small roof to a slot chimney past a large block.

P2: smear up a thin right-leaning seam (small gear and nuts) to the base of a large block. traverse rightwards around the block to a steep burly finish.

Climb up the face of this short slab on A Stoke Of Luck.

Crouched start with the two small crimps. V0+ if start is from the good shelf.

Short crack 5.10

Start on edges at 5' in between two aretes. Move up and slap one arete then the other and work yourself up.

Layback tech between awesome rests to a goey face-climbing traverse and set of crimpers up high. Soft for .10c but harder than .10b

A wonderful long moderate that tops out on the Chief with a couple spectacular pitches. You can do this route in 7 pitches with a 60m rope. Walk off. The first two pitches up to astro ledge have bad rock quality but the top 5 pitches are very good.

Arete with a bolt protecting the crux

This is the first obvious route at the papoose.

P1 - 5.10b, 30m. Follow the left leaning crack and then go up under the bolt to a belay

P2 - 5.10c, 28m. Follow the hand crack up to the overlap, make a slabby face traverse (crux, 1 bolt) to the crack on the left. Climb up the crack to the belay.

P3 - 5.10b, 30m. Awkward flaring crack with bad fingerlocks (bolted) up to an awesome belay ledge with a tree (a few bolts, or climb the offwidth straight up). Don't stop here - go back left and up an easy 5m to a bolted belay.

Walk off climbers left or rappel off.

SR to BD#3