Ascents in Spiderfly having Beta

11a in guidebook

11a in the guidebook and Mountain Project. For someone like who is working my wap up to this grade, it definitely felt harder than a 10d. But for people who warm up on this route before getting on Spiderfly (12a), I can see why it might feel like a 10d.

Hard start. Took a fall after the small finger bit.

3 attempts. First, aided a couple of sections. Second TR sent the route. 3rd lead attempt whipped about 2 moves from the anchor.

Got it second go. One of the shorter pitches I’ve done but definitely packs a punch. Pumpy. 11a?

This climb is a technical test piece for off-vertical finger crack. Probably the hardest crack I've worked yet in Squamish. Late summer project.

Pumpy! Wouldn't want to do this more than once in a day. Must go back for this one as a warmup for Spiderfly projecting.

I tried this a year ago with Andrew and it felt way off for both of us. This time I went back with Andrew (who boulders like a madman in that forest) and he went for it ground up, failed, then walked around and rigged the TR. We both gave it to burns each and got it down to one or two hangs. I think this will go for me this season and it will go for Andrew sooner.

Sent after burning off Spiderfly.

And a same day re-point for fitness laps.

I've been dialing the moves in after work quite a bit this week, also experimenting with solo TR setups for those partnerless days when I'm back in Oz. Burned off on lead today but I am witnessing progress. Shoe rubber seemed to be a limiting factor so I went and bought new kicks for my next attempt.

And another re-point just for good measure.

Couplea hangs with the new kicks. They did, indeed, make all the difference. I'm close.

Gave this two good lead burns today. A 2-hang and then a 1-hang, the latter being more of a "hey lets just fall off the 5.10 top out locks after you've pulled the cruxes and shaken out for a bit. I've never fallen off the top till today. Lawwwwl. Anyway, shit happens. Even though the sending is scarce, all the training value I'm getting from repeatedly climbing 5.12 finger cracks is turning me into a machine since a one-hang as far as your body is concerned is basically like finding a mid-route no hands rest. So it's nice to know that I'm getting better!

Oh fuck yer bud (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F-glHAzXi_M). My third trad 25. And the same week to boot! Best climb in the Bluffs.

Felt hard today. I mean, it is hard.