Routes in Mont King

Climb the left-facing corner until near the top, then branch right following cracks, or finish directly.

Easier start than staircase.

Straight up with Variation start.

Follow the obvious stepped crack up and leftwards.

Climb the slab right of the crack.

Exposed, watch out.

Initially climbed in Aid as C2.

Climb the blunt arete near the right-side of the cliff.

Exposed, watch out.

Climb a series of left-facing lay-back flakes past one horizontal crack to a second one. Traverse left past a dark streak to a light streak to belay right of a tree. Second pitch continues up rightwards from the belay.

The mega-classic right-leaning crack that you see when approaching the area. You have three finish options at the roof.

1. 5.8: Left traverse around the buldge back to the anchor. Hardly protectable.

2. 'Symbiose' 5.10d: Straight up the roof. Technical face moves. 2 bolts.

3. 'Sortie Côté Surplomb' 5.10b: Through the roof crack on the right. The traverse is not protectable.

Same start as 'Sceptre', then move over the buldge to thin face climbing past 4 bolts. Bring a .4 or .5 to protect the first move and .75 or 1 if you don't like runouts.

1. Cross slab (little to no pro) and mantle up ledge on the left end. follow ledge to the right and climb up the thin cracks to a mantle on the next ledge.

2. Climb up to a small roof/corner with a crack in the back, sloping ledge to the right, get up on ledge (crux) and traverse right to sloping ledge with a big crack.

3. traverse right to corner (exposed) and (Variation) keep traversing right to last vertical crack and head up over a ledge to the top of the cliff.

Gear: Protect your second!!!! big pieces are nice to have on the second and third pitches.

Descent: Rap down double ropes the overhanging amphitheater (amazing) or do 2 rappels off the right ledge (hanging rap bolts).

Start on some horizontal cracks left of the roof above the start of "Staircase", traverse rightwards gently rising until in the corner shared with "Staircase", go up to the roof, dodge it to the left, then pull back right above the roof then up trending rightwards initially.

Start below a large roof a few meters up, below a small roof about 2m up (that gets larger further right). Pull some hard moves up over the first roof, then up to the large roof. Traverse up and right under the roof, then angle up and trending slight rightwards for a bit, before going directly upwards to anchors.

After the 5.8 start, and 5.6 traverse under the roof, the rest of the climbing is 5.5.

Many variations on the start exist.

An imposing line left of chimère. Climb up a technical face to a big overhang move. You can place a cam just below the roof or skip to the next bolt. Beware of ground falls if you skip the cam.

The arete at the right-end of the main part of the cliff.

Climb "Bastard" Until you see a bold on a face to your left. Finish at an anchor just above that bolt.

Possibilité de finir dans la deuxième longueur de Bastard.