Ascents in 大邑鹤鸣山 He Ming Mountain

这条被改成运动攀了。定级5.10a

Thought this was a mixed trad and sport climb. Turns out it's a great 5.9. I'll be putting this up a lot more for friends.

Crux is worth it. Very sequency.

Probably best to stay right of the dihedral and stem up, but the face left around the arete tempts with some good jugs quite spaced apart and one can easily end up climbing on the harder exposed top parts of the 11a to the left. There are some loose rocks right before the chains, best to test the holds and find solid ones before pulling hard.

热身线

Crux at the end, one big move to an ok 3 finger pocket ( for big fingers)

最后2m难点，前面又偏软

大点，翻两个平台的时候需要一点力量，爬到高处的时候我往下看 有点害怕，但是我坚持爬完了

很久没爬这条线路，收站，树木要笼罩住整个保护站了。。

爬得差点开门了==！ 下方有平台，先锋有点心理鸭梨

收身爬全靠意志力不take...练习夹角找对抗

在将掉未掉的边缘守护了10a顶绳的尊严。

还需要练练指力

顶在右边（直上不是12B的顶，很多人搞错），这条线的难点在最后一把快挂到顶

难点找到一个beta。感觉有了希望。

耐力和难点都还需要练习。

难点在最后一把快挂，冲坠安全。难点动作需要很连贯，做动作要坚决，最后挂顶也难~

好线，动作很丰富，但感觉不是10a该有的难度

Great line with a bouldery crux on small holds, and a great finish climbing up a big tufa.

Happy to get that one on the first go of the day !

The start is a v2/v3 boulder problem followed by a ledge to stand on for a good rest. The crux follows almost directly after, for most people it’s a undercling crimp requiring delicate stemming to a good right hand crimp. I found the undercling very hard as I get scrunched up and have opted instead to do a big reach to the upper right thin hands crack. After that is some power endurance moves on good goods all the way to the finish.

First time up, got the moves figured out but linking will require quite a bit more power endurance in the tank

Finally got the lower crux done in a way where I can rest and clip, feeling good for attempts on lead now

Pumped out at the top on 1st go. Took a strange and scary whipper lower down and almost hit the platform above 3rd bolt 2nd go. More work needed.

总体来说线路11C的感觉，难点不尖锐，线路不长，不知道为什么定为12A