Ascents in 石鼓 Shigu by Arthur Fernandez

Could get all the moves done. Linking them up will be challenging

Two more burns. Got the moves dialed in pretty well

Three burns again today. Getting to new high point each time. Dropping at the start of the upper crux. But this will require much more power endurance to send it !

Very aesthetic line. Gave it two very good goes. Figured out all the moves. The crux move on a couple of pinch and crimp felt really hard. No FA as of today for that line. Could be a bit harder than 13a.

Two tries. Felt soft for the grade. One hard move at the start.

Very sharp. You might want to pre-clip the first four bolts. As the draws position make it hard to clip.

First try of the day. That’s some damn sharp holds !

Good sustained climbing with a definite crux at the top. Good fun.

First 7b onsight. While putting up the draws. Good sustained climbing on flat edges and side pulls.

More sustained than the 13a on the right

Fell from the jug after sticking the crux, such a shame. Two very different types of climbing with a good rest in between.

Great sustained climb. Fell three move from the chains on that punishing crimp sequence !

Good route. Hard crux. Needs a careful belay.

One try today. Stemming, laybacks, crack climbing, runout. Lots of way to describe this very special climb. You will either love it or hate it.

Second go. A massive block broke at the end of the roof when my friend got on this. It might be a little harder to pull the lip of the roof now.

Fell of the first move. Then got back up and flashed to the top. Good crimpy line.

Awesome climb on shark fin tufa. Flashed it all the way up to the roof then pumped out. I recommend to take a knee pad up with you, as it’s a knee bar fest all the way up.

Draw cleaning at the end of the day

Could be a nice multipitch. But it needs some cleaning first. The problem is that this route has not been climbed much since the day it was bolted. I broke at least three feet holds on the crux pitch.Also, I recommand bringing a stick clip for the third pitch, otherwise a fall at the lower crux might end up with you hitting your belayer. An extra bolt should be added soon local route setters though. After that, the whole route should be much safer. The gear on the wall is in good conditions. Generally speaking, it is an interesting line with lots of different types of climbing involved, and quite an exposure at some point. Due to the broken flakes on pitch 3, I would say that the grade of the hardest pitch is around 5.12b.

Hard

Fell at the crux. Great climbing. Mix of long moves on jugs and technical foot work.

The best one of the three on the right

Not good for a warm up !

A bit bouldery on the first few meters. Then tufa climbing at its best.

Steep pocketed climb. Good warm up.

Great juggy route. Very long climb. And a couple of nice overhang. Must do at the grade.

Climb it just for the upper section. Big fun !

Good cruxy route at the grade

Very pleasant 10b, and well bolted

Good warm up