Routes in 云南 Yunnan for selected grade

A0 5.11 Gear 00-1 TCU, triple 1, doubles 00, camalot .3 to 4, quadruple .3, doubles .4 to 1. Traditional anchor at tree. Climb Through the Looking Glass, A0 by pulling on the rope and continue climbing the long crack to the tree.

P1: 14m

P2: ~20m

P3: 31m

第一段为Lollipop棒棒糖,5.8,20m,传统保护点

Continue past the anchor of Sandy, into the wide crack. Bolt anchor on the face above the crack. Awaiting a free ascent.

Nice lay back climbing, good for small hands. Gear camalot .3 to 2, doubles .75, triple .5. Bolt anchor shared with Pushing Forward Back.

Route is above Scarface 2 and Boy with a Coin.

This route can continue into multipitch The Lost World.

Gear #1 size TCU, camalot .3 to 5, double 5. Bolt anchor. An interesting climb. Some of the harder moves may suit tall people. A1 the roof if desired.

First pitch of The Diamond.

Gear 00 to 1 TCU, doubles 00 to 1, camalot .3 to 3, dou- ble .3 to 1, slings. Bolt anchors. Abseil from the top of the pillar down the Wind of the North. A very nice corner route.

Pitch 1: A0/class 5 Gear slings. Bolt/ Traditional anchor. Scramble up the gully on the left and traverse the ledge right to the white hand line. Clip the loops for protection.

Pitch 2: Gear 00-1 TCU, doubles 00- 1, camalot .3 to 3, double .3 to 1, triple .75. Bolt anchor. Strenuous move leads to a section of aid, followed by a nice finger crack. 35m pitch.

Pitch 3: 5.9+ Gear .5 to 3, double .75 to 1. Bolt anchor. A thinner hand crack. 10 meter pitch.

Pitch 4: 5.10a Gear camalot 2 to 4, double 3. Bolt anchor. Top out the pillar and enjoy the view. There‟s the option to continue on pitch 5 of Wind of the North from here or abseil down Wind of the North.

Gear wires 1 to 6, 00-1 TCU, camalot .3 to 3, doubles .3 to .4, triple .5, quadruple .75, quintuplet 1. Bolt anchor. Climb the thin crack that splits the face. Belay from the top and abseil to the top of the pillar just to the right of Orange Beard. Scramble down the chimney from there. Potential multi- pitch above Quest.

An 80m rope will allow you to lower from the top anchor and rethread from the first pitch anchor to get down. Otherwise 60m double rope rappel is required

Access from pitch 3 to Prime Meridian and Anti-Meridian.

第一段有三个不同高度的顶，各有不同的难度，第一个顶的难度是5.10a，到达第二个顶难度是5.11，到达第三个顶是5.11d。

#1 TCU, camalot .3 to 4, triple 1, doubles .74 and 1, bolt anchor. Classic corner crack! GREAT climbing up the square-cut orange corner. Begins with fist jamming, into hand jamming, followed by layback section (crux) up to the anchor.

沼泽的延长线，和月亮的尖叫第二段共顶。

This route shares the first two bolts with stairmaster. Mind the loose block below the chimney.

In Fumin, past old red rock, past the rainbow wall......

Climb up the big block to start and then go up the middle of the wall. Follow the crimpy slopers to the tufas, pull over the dirty tufas to an easy ride to the finish.

A hard start brings you to stimulating and pleasant dihedral and face climbing. The relaxed climbing comes to an end when you reach the upper crux, an Über -technical stemming dance up a featureless overhanging corner. Gym climbers beware.

Last move to the anchor is basically impossible. Otherwise, the climb is probably 5.11-. Feel free to try it and clip the anchor on the right instead.

Overhanging and sustained. Soft for the grade.

Delicate and insecure climbing up a groovy corner into a powerful upper wall of gently overhanging rock. Halfway through the route there is a large run-out through an easy, ladder-like section. If you feel scared then suck it up or bring a cam, anything from BD#1 to #4 will fit.

路书 Topo

1. The pass of dreaming, 35m, 5.11-, 16 bolts

2. Melaka, 20m, 5.5, 4 bolts

3. City of believer, 20m, 5.10-, 8 bolts

4. Twilight, 25m, 5.10+, 9 bolts

5. Starshine, 30m, 5, 4 bolts

6. Small heart, big heart, 30m, 5.7R, 7 bolts

7. Orbital, 35m, 5.11+, 14 bolts

8. Lancer is back, 25m, 5.7, 10 bolts

9. Ture right heaven, 30m, A0 5.7, 14 bolts

10. Bubble hand, 40m, A0, 15 bolts

11. Rays of the setting sun, 40m, A0, 16 bolts

12. The light of dawn, 40m, A0 5.9, 20 bolts

13. Shiver, 20m, 5.9, 10 bolts

14. Once upon a time, 45m, A0 5.10, 25 bolts

线路名称来历:因为线路开发在2020年 18个胶钉+顶

Bolts: 15,8

第二段还未开发完毕