Routes as sport in Croatia

5c/A1

Old school climbing-corners-cracks-chimneys. No real face climbing but it is Limestone. No.2 of the Trinity, the other two being Mosaraski and the klin

Old school route as well. Strenuous and exposure is massive on 8th 9th pitch. Clip bolts-old pegs and take Trad gear as well. Pretty well bolted though. Crux can be aided.

Signposted. Starts ~10 m left of giant carabiner replica.

https://www.bergsteigen.com/touren/klettern/kaca-anica-kuk-paklenica/

some cams and slings are useful

https://www.bergsteigen.com/fileadmin/userdaten/tour/bilder/big_wall_speed_climbing_pips_debeli_kuk_topo_paklenica_klettern.jpg

https://www.bergsteigen.com/fileadmin/userdaten/tour/topo/johnny_diagonalka_zgreseni_debeli_kuk_topo_paklenica_klettern.jpg

wall climbing on a hard limestone (small pockets, crags, holes)

a bit difficult start, go on the left side;)

Overhang on the top with small crimps.

It is graded 4a in printed guide book and is longer than 20 meters (40 meters rope was not enough).

There is not a lot of bolts on the second pitch, but it is pretty easy climbing.

Slippery start

Classic route, but very polished

Follows a big crack first 12m, then over a small overhang slightly right to the top.