Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Climber | Date | |||
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VIIc | ★★★ Varianta Cesty středem | 35m, 1 | Ostrov | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 25th Jul 2022 | ||||
Vystup variantou je kupodivu lehci technicky a predevsim moralove.
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VIIIa VIIc | ★ Červená ještěrka | 25m, 1 | Ostrov | ★ Good | Sat 9th May 2020 | ||||
dost odvážná cesta
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V | ★ Pod slanením | 12m | Ostrov | Sat 9th May 2020 | |||||
no protection
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VIIc | ★ Hvězdné nádraží - with Franta Kaván | 20m, 2 | Ostrov | ★ Good | Sun 25th Apr 2021 | ||||
difficult before the 1st
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VIIIb VIIIa | ★★★ Sladká Francie - with LL | 25m, 2 | Ostrov | ★★ Very Good | Tue 8th Jun 2021 | ||||
2 silver rings on the right - VIIc/VIIIa Ostrov grade or VIIIb/VIIIc Saxon
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VIIc | ★ Severozápadní hrana - with LL | 18m, 2 | Ostrov | ★ Good | Tue 8th Jun 2021 | ||||
diffcult under 1.R
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VIIIb VIIIa | ★★ Dračí stěna - with LL | 28m, 2 | Ostrov | Average | Tue 20th Jul 2021 | ||||
Stupid placement of 2.R. The most difficult move is right under it. When you reach a good griff for clipping, you don't need it anymore. VIIIa in TOPO guide is underestimated (in Saxon context). VIIc Ostrov = rather VIIIb Saxon. Could be even VIIIc.
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VIIIa | ★★★ Ospalá spára - with Franta Kaván | 20m, 1 | Ostrov | ★★★ Classic | Fri 25th Mar 2022 | ||||
Excellent route but only for brave climbers!
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VIIa | ★ Přes ostny - with makro | 18m, 1 | Ostrov | ★ Good | Fri 15th Jul 2022 | ||||
quite dangerous start
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VIIc VIIb | ★ Údolní kout - with LL | 18m, 1 | Ostrov | ★ Good | Sun 24th Jul 2022 | ||||
dangerous under R
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VIIIc | ★ SEK - with LL | 27m, 4 | Ostrov | ★ Good | Fri 12th Aug 2022 | ||||
4th repeat
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VIIc VIIa | Údolní cesta - with LL | 25m, 1 | Ostrov | Average | Tue 16th Aug 2022 | ||||
hardest before the bolt, around VIIc
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IXa | ★★★ Lineární vertikála - with LL | 33m, 3 | Ostrov | ★★★ Classic | Fri 19th Aug 2022 | ||||
Hard to clip the first bolt. After you clip, you go slightly down and to the right. A bit unlogical, I'd move it 50cm down.
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VIIc | ★★ Anja - with LL | 16m, 2 | Ostrov | ★★ Very Good | Mon 2nd Jan 2023 | ||||
freezing fingers
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VIIIb | ★★★ Severozápadní stěna - with LL, JT | 35m, 1 | Ostrov | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 10th Apr 2023 | ||||
Epic route with many sling options... but how good they are?!
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VIIIa/VIIIb ~VIIIb | ★ Eeeliško tys mi dala! - with OŠ | 30m, 2 | Ostrov | ★ Good | Thu 11th May 2023 | ||||
looong runout above 2.R
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VIIc | Podle pravidel | 25m, 2 | Ostrov | Thu 18th May 2023 | |||||
seems harder than IXa but I don't know by how much
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VIIb ~VIIc | ★★ Bílá stěna - with LL | 25m, 1 | Ostrov | ★★ Very Good | Thu 18th May 2023 | ||||
direct variant is better
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VIIIb | ★★★ Antigona | 16m, 2 | Ostrov | ★★★ Classic | Fri 26th May 2023 | ||||
Really cool route but the first bolt is not glued in full lenght and sticks out. A bit scary. 6th repeat.
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VIIb | ★★ Kamarádská cesta - with Jana | 18m | Ostrov | ★★ Very Good | Fri 26th May 2023 | ||||
nice climbing but I consider the protection quite poor
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VIIb ~VIIc | Pravá údolní cesta - with LL | 20m, 2 | Ostrov | Average | Thu 1st Jun 2023 | ||||
dangerous start in my view, ca VIIc
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VIIIa Hard | ★★★ Zamávejte soudružce - with LL | 25m, 2 | Ostrov | ★★★ Classic | Fri 21st Jul 2023 | ||||
very technical and quite a runout
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IV | ★★ Přes přílepek - with LL | 12m | Ostrov | ★★ Very Good | Fri 21st Jul 2023 | ||||
super přílepek
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IXa | ★★ Ložená hrana - with LL | 35m, 3 | Ostrov | ★★★ Classic | Fri 21st Jul 2023 | ||||
super lehce převislá cesta, s bouldrem u každého kruhu
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VIIc | ★★ Jakubíček - with LL | 25m, 1 | Ostrov | ★★★ Classic | Fri 21st Jul 2023 | ||||
Krásný lezení v tvrdým materiálu... ukrytý klenot. Linda si taky vytáhla.
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VIIc ~VIIIa | ★★ Cesta starších pánů - with LL | 18m, 2 | Ostrov | ★★ Very Good | Thu 24th Aug 2023 | ||||
finger-crack moves at 1.R
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VIIIa Hard | ★★★ Cesta obra Koloděje - with LL | 30m, 3 | Ostrov | ★★★ Classic | Fri 25th Aug 2023 | ||||
Super route in good material, except maybe a few meters. A nice straight continuation is then like the "Podzimní varianta" with an extended ring on the balcony.
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VIIIa | ★★★ Královská cesta - with LL | 45m, 6 | Ostrov | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 25th Aug 2023 | ||||
Luxury line. I bet it will have two stars in the next guidebook. It can be recommended to climbers who have this grade as a limit. The ascent of the lower part starts RIGHT from the edge, into the hole, and then left to the edge.
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IXc | ★ Jodeo — 4 attempts | 18m, 2 | Ostrov | ★ Good | Fri 25th Aug 2023 | ||||
no chalk
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VIIIb/VIIIc Hard | ★★ Suchý zákon - with LL, PŠ | 35m, 4 | Ostrov | ★★★ Classic | Thu 31st Aug 2023 | ||||
VIIIb/c. Careful to the 1.R.
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VIIc ~VIIIa | ★★ Cesta pro Květu - with LL | 10m, 1 | Ostrov | ★★ Very Good | Fri 1st Sep 2023 | ||||
nice short boulder cca VIIIa
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VIIIa | ★★ Bez mága prosím - with LL | 35m, 2 | Ostrov | ★★ Very Good | Fri 1st Sep 2023 | ||||
a bit scary to 1.R; than good
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V ~VIIa | ★★ Západní stěna - with PŠ | 16m | Ostrov | ★★★ Classic | Tue 5th Sep 2023 | ||||
přímo za sedm
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VIIIb/VIIIc ~VIIIc | ★★ Žofinská romance - with Franta Kaván | 20m, 2 | Ostrov | ★ Good | Wed 13th Sep 2023 | ||||
Pretty damn hard. VIIIa in TOPO guide is underestimated.
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VIIc Hard | ★★ Nová přímá severní stěna - with LL | 25m, 1 | Ostrov | ★★ Very Good | Fri 29th Sep 2023 | ||||
5th ascent of the route
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VIIIa/VIIIb ~VIIIb | ★★★ Sagamor - with LL | 17m, 2 | Ostrov | ★★★ Classic | Fri 29th Sep 2023 | ||||
8th ascent of the route
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VIIIc ~VIIIb | ★★★ Jethro Tull - with LL, PŠ | 27m, 1 | Ostrov | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 2nd Oct 2023 | ||||
Make sure you bring a good kevlar.
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VIIb | ★★ Cesta za lubem - with LL, BF, LS | 20m, 2 | Ostrov | ★★ Very Good | Fri 6th Oct 2023 | ||||
1st repeat
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VIIIa | ★★ Rozloučení - with LL | 25m, 1 | Ostrov | ★★★ Classic | Sat 27th Apr 2024 | ||||
usmejklo mi to, pak už v pohodě
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VIIIa/VIIIb Hard | ★★ Žlebský odtrh - with LL, KN | 23m, 2 | Ostrov | ★★ Very Good | Fri 7th Jun 2024 | ||||
hard to read!
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VIIIb | ★★ Eskymácké léto - with LL | 23m, 2 | Ostrov | ★★★ Classic | Fri 7th Jun 2024 | ||||
pumpy
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V | ★★ Placatá | 10m, 1 | Ostrov | ★★ Very Good | Sun 28th Apr 2024 | ||||
Schöne kurzen und gut gesicherte V. Vorm Ring Kevlar möglich. Es gibt noch reichlich Begehungen zu holen.
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V | ★★ Těžká lopata | 12m, 1 | Ostrov | ★★ Very Good | Sat 24th Sep 2022 | ||||
První cesta na příjezdu do Ostrova, povinnost vylézt. Lze dobře dojistit, příjemně se leze
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V | ★ Omezená rychlost | 15m, 1 | Ostrov | ★ Good | Sun 25th Sep 2022 | ||||
Pěkně těžký první krok! Pak už je to celkem za odměnu, ale na prvního bych to lézt nechtěl - před kruhem není kde dojistit
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VI | ★★ Východní cesta | 20m, 1 | Ostrov | ★★★ Classic | Sat 24th Sep 2022 | ||||
Pěkná cesta co bych nechtěl lézt na prvního, ale probíhá nejhezčími místy stěny a stojí za to. Výlez na konci není zadarmo .Vrcholová knížka ještě z roku 1974
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VI | Údolní cesta | 20m, 1 | Ostrov | Sat 24th Sep 2022 | |||||
Na takovou obtížnost mi přijde tahle cesta totálně mimo. Brutálně těžký převis na začátku kde nejde nic zajistit...asi bych to vylez kdybych měl sebevražedné tendence, ale mam se moc rád. Dle zachovalé pavučiny v prvním místě kde by se dalo dojistit, nejsem sám
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VIIa | ★★★ Klavír | 28m, 2 | Ostrov | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 24th Sep 2022 | ||||
Krásná linka! Těžký začátek, pak pohoda ke kruhu, pak zdánlivě neproveditelný krok, a u druhého kruhu úžasné vzdušné lezení. Jedná z nejlepších cest co jsem v životě lezl
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V | ★★ Sluneční stěna | 40m, 1 | Ostrov | ★★★ Classic | Sat 24th Sep 2022 | ||||
Krásný a lehký začátek, pak dojdou chyty a je to zajímavý až na konec
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VIIa | ★★ Pravá údolní cesta | 35m | Ostrov | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 24th Sep 2022 | ||||
Překvapivě náročný začátek, pak pohoda, a najednou přijde zatraceně těžký krux. Měl jsem namále. Za kruxem už pohoda
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VIIb | ★★ Karlova půltečka | 15m, 2 | Ostrov | ★★★ Classic | Sun 25th Sep 2022 | ||||
Krásně lezení po lištách, u druhého kruhu jsem měl namále. Je třeba lézt rychle a věřit si. Lze ještě dojistit nahoře, ale tam už je to lehký
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IV | ★★ Adolfovská cesta | 15m, 1 | Ostrov | ★★ Very Good | Sun 25th Sep 2022 | ||||
Příjemná cesta na rozlez, dobře dojistitelná.
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VI | ★★ Kouzelná hrana | 25m, 1 | Ostrov | ★★★ Classic | Sun 25th Sep 2022 | ||||
Poprvé na prvního na písku. Jištění v pravé spáře dobré (kdybych ho uměl dobře založit), pak se jde na hranu a zbytek je krásné vzdušné lezení po hraně. Za kruhem jsou nenápadné hodiny. Nahoře krásný výhled
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VIIa | ★★★ Pravá údolní cesta | 25m, 1 | Ostrov | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 25th Sep 2022 | ||||
Těžká, dobře dojistitelná cesta. U kruhu příjemný odpočinek a pak několik náročných, ale krásných kroků. Paráda
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VIIa | ★★ Kde jsi byl?! | 20m, 1 | Ostrov | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 25th Sep 2022 | ||||
Pro mě hodně náročné lezení, sparoví lezci ocení spoustu dobrých míst kde dát žábu. Jištění dobré, napínavý rajbas na konci, ale je tam ještě borhák
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II | ★ Západní komín | 10m | Ostrov | ★ Good | Sun 3rd Sep 2023 | ||||
Pěkná věžička, nahoře je signál 4g 👌
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VI | Údolní spára - with Klára Schmidtová | Ostrov | Sun 20th Jun 2021 | ||||||
zapytleno ve 2m
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V VI | ★★ Jihovýchodní cesta - with Pablo Gonzales Talavera | 18m, 1 | Ostrov | ★ Good | Tue 10th Aug 2021 | ||||
vyhnal mě déšť
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IV | ★ Údolní cesta - with Klára Schmidtová | Ostrov | Sun 3rd Jul 2022 | ||||||
Blbé pokračování dne
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VIIa | Bouře nad hostincem - with Klára Schmidtová | 2 | Ostrov | Sun 3rd Jul 2022 | |||||
Blbý začátek dne
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V VI | ★★ Jihovýchodní cesta - with Klára Schmidtová | 18m, 1 | Ostrov | ★★ Very Good | Sun 3rd Jul 2022 | ||||
Krásná gradující cesta
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VI ~VIIa | ★★ !Všední hrana - with Ivana | 1 | Ostrov | ★★★ Classic | Sat 6th Apr 2024 | ||||
Nastup pres variantu s kruhem
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VIIb | ★★ Den horníků - with Ivana | 18m, 2 | Ostrov | ★★★ Classic | Sat 6th Apr 2024 | ||||
Po 14 letech od prvovystupu kdy jsem byl na chvostu druzstva
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VIIa | ★ Nohy vzhůru - with Ivana | 1 | Ostrov | ★ Good | Sat 6th Apr 2024 | ||||
Druzstvo v prvovystupu, nepamatuju si
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IV | ★ Cesta pilířem | 30m | Ostrov | ★ Good | Sun 15th May 2022 | ||||
Achtung! Im oberen Bereich, am Ausstieg zur ersten großen Terrasse ist recht oberhalb ein großer lockerer Block, der nicht angefasst werden darf!
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VI | ★★ Dvojspára - with Player Two | Ostrov | ★ Good | Thu 18th May 2023 | |||||
Zacke ist hohl!!!!
|
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VIIa Easy | ★★ Zkouřenky - with Player Two, Matu und Maria | 1 | Ostrov | ★ Good | Fri 19th May 2023 | ||||
Den SU zum ersten Ring würde ich mein Leben nicht anvertrauen. (zstl. vog)
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V | Sluneční cesta - with Player Two, Matu und Maria | Ostrov | Don't Bother | Sat 20th May 2023 | |||||
schmutzig, hauptsächlich LISA-SU
|
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VI Hard | ★ Jihozápadní cesta - with Player Two, Matu und Maria | Ostrov | ★★ Very Good | Sat 20th May 2023 | |||||
Oben raus moralisch
|
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VIIb | ★★ Narozeniny - with Martin Starke | 18m, 1 | Ostrov | Sat 3rd Jun 2023 | |||||
Geht barfuß voll klar!
|
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V | ★★ Jihovýchodní spára | 10m | Ostrov | ★★ Very Good | Mon 25th Mar 2024 | ||||
Vorstieg (v.u.g.)
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VIIa | ★★ Stará cesta | 25m, 2 | Ostrov | Sat 17th Jul 2004 | |||||
VIIc ohne Unterstützung
|
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VIIb | ★ Cesta věřících - with Danilo Hondo, bine | 18m, 1 | Ostrov | Average | Sat 28th Apr 2018 | ||||
sketchy moves until thread, then easier.
|
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VIIa | Cesta v plavkách - with Danilo Hondo, bine, lina | 18m, 1 | Ostrov | Average | Sat 28th Apr 2018 | ||||
crux moves to the ringbolt
|
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V | ★★ Pravá náhorní spára - with Lina | 18m | Ostrov | ★★ Very Good | Thu 3rd May 2018 | ||||
optimal pro, ideally-sided hand crack.
|
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II | ★★ Stará cesta - with bine, lina, jule, lewin | Ostrov | ★ Good | Sun 29th Apr 2018 | |||||
no surprises. Final step a bit difficult for smaller kids.
|
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VIIIa | ★★★ Budínova cesta - with Danilo Hondo | 15m, 2 | Ostrov | ★★ Very Good | Sun 29th Apr 2018 | ||||
smooth till first bolt, then 10 mm sling can be placed above overhang. Strange move to 2. bolt. Another smaller sling before the final wall, which is unexpectedly crimpy.
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V IV | ★ Jižní hrana - with Danilo Hondo, lina, jule, bine | 15m, 1 | Ostrov | ★ Good | Sun 29th Apr 2018 | ||||
no surprises, just as it looks
|
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V | ★ Jižní cesta - with Danilo Hondo | 12m, 1 | Ostrov | Average | Sun 29th Apr 2018 | ||||
unspectacular but pleasant
|
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VI | Pozdrav z Tater - with Danilo Hondo | Ostrov | Don't Bother | Sat 5th May 2018 | |||||
scary when not using the ringbolt. I reached the crack, but climbing it proved tricky and the bolt was far. Dunno how this got the star in the guidebook.
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VI | ★★ Kouzelná hrana - with bine, lina | 25m, 1 | Ostrov | ★★ Very Good | Mon 30th Apr 2018 | ||||
demanding move past hole in starting crack. 2 m above the ringbolt there is a trusty thread right at the edge, which makes the rest a breeze.
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VIIIa | ★ Tvář slunce - with Danilo Hondo | 25m, 1 | Ostrov | Average | Mon 30th Apr 2018 | ||||
sketchy moves around edge to bolt. Then I used the seam to the left, which probably was the adjacent route. Still, this is demanding and the finger crack is not easy to reach, a fall would pendulum you around the edge.
|
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VIIa | ★★ Kde jsi byl?! - with Danilo Hondo | 20m, 1 | Ostrov | ★ Good | Mon 30th Apr 2018 | ||||
nice moves, but a bit damp. Some of the blocks sound a bit hollow.
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VIIc VIIb | ★★ Karlova půltečka - with bine, Danilo Hondo | 15m, 2 | Ostrov | ★ Good | Mon 30th Apr 2018 | ||||
stiff starting moves, the sling knot in the shallow seam helps the mind. After the first bolt, still interesting, but no more unpleasant surprises.
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VI VIIa | Řezání svatebního polena (Baumstammsägen) - with Danilo Hondo | 15m, 2 | Ostrov | Average | Mon 30th Apr 2018 | ||||
crumblier than it looks until first bolt, without decent pro; the rest is fine.
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VIIb | ★ Regis Sylva - with bine, Danilo Hondo | 17m, 2 | Ostrov | ★ Good | Tue 1st May 2018 | ||||
straight up to first bolt is surprisingly hard. Bring at least three 5-mm-slings. I used two in the seam above the second bolt, which I found to be the crux move.
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VIIc VIIb | ★★ Pálení čarodějnic - with Danilo Hondo | 1 | Ostrov | ★★ Very Good | Tue 1st May 2018 | ||||
easy and protectable until bolt. From there, shallow holds and poor footholds for 2 m. Large thread at ledge - bring at least 3 m of sling. Move past overhand slightly more demanding than it looks, the rest is easy.
|
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IV | ★ Jepice nebo slepice - with Katta | 1 | Ostrov | ★ Good | Sun 8th May 2022 | ||||
Super Sanduhren!
|
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V | ★★ Stará cesta - with Matze, Ulf, Hans Fahs | 20m, 1 | Ostrov | ★★ Very Good | Sat 14th Aug 2021 | ||||
mit Element von VII
|
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VIIa | ★ Panenský půvab | Ostrov | Fri 18th Mar 2022 | ||||||
barely made it up on second, nice crack tho
|
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VIIa | ★ Levá cesta | 25m | Ostrov | Fri 18th Mar 2022 | |||||
pull throught the overhang and follow the corner crack to the top
|
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VIIc | ★★★ Ospalá spára | 20m, 1 | Ostrov | Fri 18th Mar 2022 | |||||
dont think I'll be leading this one anytime soon good fight
|
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VIIa | ★★ Andělská hrana | 30m, 2 | Ostrov | ★★★ Classic | Fri 18th Mar 2022 | ||||
great line, do it! up the "arete" to the first ringbolt, then up and left to the second ringbolt, traverse a bit left, pull the the overhang and through easy chimney to the top
|
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VIIb | ★ Jitřní lov | 18m, 1 | Ostrov | ★ Good | Fri 18th Mar 2022 | ||||
there is also a easier variant after the first crack follow the hand crack left
|
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VIIb | ★★★ Cesta pro Nšo-či | 1 | Ostrov | ★★★ Classic | Sat 30th Sep 2023 | ||||
More variants how to climb this one
|
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VIIIa ~VIIc | ★ Tvář slunce | 25m, 1 | Ostrov | ★ Good | Sat 9th Sep 2023 | ||||
VIIc accordig to guidebook
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VIIIa | ★★ Hravá cesta | 18m, 1 | Ostrov | Sat 4th May 2024 | |||||
Diifucult part right above a ring. Either rajbas on right with no holds or lefty trough a crack.
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III | ★ Stará cesta - with Katta, MartinM | Ostrov | Average | Sat 7th May 2022 | |||||
As extension of "Robin Hood". Used a rope, but no pro.
|
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VIIb | ★ Robin Hood - with MartinM | 2 | Ostrov | ★ Good | Sat 7th May 2022 | ||||
Good route up a friction wall with good underclings followed by a shallow crack feature.
Excellent protection. Extended with "Stará cesta" up the Lesní věže |
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IV | Airak - with Katta, MartinM | 1 | Ostrov | Sat 7th May 2022 | |||||
IV | Chušúr - with Katta, MartinM | 1 | Ostrov | Average | Sat 7th May 2022 | ||||
Short and fun, excellent sling placement before ring
|