Routes in Europe

7b oblig.

Material: 16 cintas exprés

Topo en elev-arte.com

Gear

Friends up to No. 3, single rope

Comparte gran parte del recorrido con su vecino "Gran Guggenheim".

Shares a large part of the route with its neighbor "Gran Guggenheim".

Comienza en "Guggenheim" y termina en "Gran Lubre".

Starts on "Guggenheim" and exits on "Gran Lubre".

Initially graded 8c, Siebe Vanhee and Séb Berthe suggest 8b+ (Aug-2023).

As Iker Pou says "The route follows an incredibly beautiful line up perfect, very vertical limestone. The climbing is protected with a mix of bolts and friends, and bolts were only placed where it wasn’t possible to protect ourselves otherwise. The route runs through the central section of this fantastic wall, which has always been admired by mountaineers and climbers for its unique beauty and sheer steepness. We dare say it’s a small jewel of the Picos de Europa, thanks to the direct line and exceptional limestone."

Gear:

10 Quickdraws, 1 set of Totems (Friends) up to number #2 and 1 x 0.2, 1 x 0.3 Totem Basic or Alien.

Descent:

On foot, but it is also possible to rappel down the entire route.

As Iker Pou describes it: "a perfect roof, well not quite perfect, because it even descends, about 20 meters long across a series of pockets. A authentic ‘fiesta’ of monodoits and two-finger pockets across a roof that is scary just to look at." The climbing is obviously ferocious and extremely physical: "Very few footholds, and those that exist are very bad so you have to constantly dyno them from one pocket to the next."

Short extension of "Clepteropa".

Gear:

2 sets of friends up to 1 and one 3 plus 2 sets of micro friends and one set of nuts

The extension of Celedón Txiki.

Iker Pou said: This is the most important route we've ever climbed. We worked it for two whole months this summer and it can be broken down into three sections. The first four pitches are new and very steep and were first ascended with a Rätikon and Wendenstöcke mentality, which means long run-outs from one bolt to the other! The second section shares six pitches of an old route called Mediterraneo, first climbed in 1980 using aid. The 5th pitch is the technical crux at 8c+/9a and although it is a bit easier, it is still 8a+. Both were originally climbed using aid and graded A3, and we risked big falls between 20 -25m. The protection on these pitches was very old, there were some original bolts, but most of the rest are wooden pitons, copperheads, micro-friends and nuts..."

Free Ascents

• 2015 Nina Caprez & Cédric Lachat

Intialially graded A2+.

Odissy R1 + American Express