Routes in Massif du Mont Blanc

Too popular.

Ice couloir, narrow and up to 80 degrees. Very popular all year round. Belays for rappel down route if you turn around at top of couloir.

Best accessed from Aiguille du Midi ca. 1h over glacier. Need to have skills for glacier travel.

Climbing the ridge S to N involves some 4 climbing and 2 rappels along the ridge. Very scenic. Some loose rocks in places.

Walk across several kilometers of crevasses on the Geant Glacier to reach Col d'Entrève. Then climb and follow the ridge to the summit. Traverse to the northern summit, then scramble down the northeast ridge. Descend for a while then, angling left reconnect with the traces leading to Col d'Entrèves. Use ice screws to protect a long steep traverse. Turn right to return to Rifugio Torino.

The normal way up Mt Blanc and used in descent for most cases. Normal starting point is Les Houches where you take the cable car and then train to Nid d'Aigle 2372m. There is a couloir below refuge Gouter that is exposed to stonefall, caution. From refuge Gouter 3817m follow rigde to Dome du Goûter then ridge to summit.

A true Envers classic. There are sections significantly harder than 6a+. Anchors are equipped and bolts on thin slabs or hard runout sections.

Climb the right side of the face up into the big dihedral up top.

As usual for the area there are bolts in the slabs while the cracks are clean.

A long and classic way to ascend Mt Blanc. Route is technically easy but a long glacial outing exposed to Serac fall which makes chosing good conditions and timing important. From Col du Midi some 600m up to Mt Blanc du Tacul. Then descending to Col Maudit 4029 and from here som 300m to pass around Mont Maudit and then finally 500m from here to summit.

1. Descend the Aiguille du Midi slope and a ~30 minute approach will bring you to the base of the traverse.

2. Climb the 40 degree snow slope between the southeast and middle summits.

3. Easy scrambling with some exposure will bring you to the central summit. Downclimb on the south side for about 3m to reach a bolted abseil on an exposed ledge.

4. A 30m abseil (bring a long enough rope!) down the north face will land you on an exposed and stunning snow ridge linking the central and main summits. Follow this to the foot of the rock buttress and the crux pitch.

5. 4a. The crux is easier than it looks but there may be some loose rock and requires care. Take a small rack to climb this section. Can be done in 1-2 pitches.

6. At the top, follow the snow slope easily to reach the main summit.

7. Descent: Easy descend down the snow ridge before turning eastwards and walking down to rejoin the approach path back to the Midi.

All the belays are equipped with two bolts. If you climb to top of first tower it is possible to abseil down the route. If you continue the easy pitches to summit you need to abseil / down climb south face (bring approach kit).

Start at the fantastic crack. Bring a cam Nr. 4. There is an easier version for the first pitch, if you start further to the right via the slab.

A classic varied climb with cracks, corners and chimneys on sound solid rock.

An excellent route with varied climbing. Rock is mostly excellent, however pitch 3 and 4 have some loose rock. The last pitch is the crux and ended on a small summit. The belays are bolted and there are numerous pitons through out the climb. A standard rack will get you up.

easy mixed snow rock ridge climb. Crampons and ice axe

Classic initiation to larger ice climbs. Up to 50 degrees ice.

195m trad route on the northwest face of the Aiguille de l'M. Some pitons here and there in the cracks, and slings/pitons in place at some belays, but bring a full rack. Plenty of pitons in place on the crux pitch (Pitch 4).

Long alpine climb mainly on rock. Crux, 75m dihedral 5+

Combination of the Old Bonnati route first 4 pitches and the last 2 pitches of Tabou makes for a good 5c to 6b+ climb. This avoids the harder pitches of the other routes.

Cams one Set BD 0,3 - 3 and some nuts About 8 draws. You can bring mountaineering equipment with you and decent via the Arete des Cosmiques. Rappelling is also possible, but could be are difficult task, if there is alot of traffic on the route.

Normal route on Mt Blanc du Tacul. The NW-face may some years have hanging glaciers that are difficult to cross. Also the first part of the "3 montes route" to ascend Mt Blanc.

Ice couloir up to 85 degrees. Fixed belays and rappels.

Approach on glacier

This ascent starts in the bionnassay parking lot and follows the ascent up to Nid d’aigle. Follow the trail above the Bionnassay glacier up to the Tete Rousse refuge. Put on crampons to cross the Grand Couloir while maintaining vigilance for rock fall, which is frequent. Remove crampons and ascend the Aguille Gouter to the Gouter Refuge. Ascend To Dome d’ Gouter toward the summit ridge. Follow the ridge to the summit. Average time for this route is 2-3 days with rest at one or more of the refuges. Best to rest at the Gouter Refuge after summit day before descending 2600 meters to the Bionnassay parking area, though some try to do it all in a single push. These days most people take the lift up but starting in Bionnassay is the original way summitted in 1786. This route is historically regarded as the beginning of mountaineering.

Equipped anchors with absail. A few extra bolts in places.

Nice mixed climb as introduction to alpine mixed climbing. Follows the left side of the N-triangle Rocheux

50-60 snow & ice climb.

One of the 6 classic North Faces. A major classic climb in many ways. Serious approach and long and complicated descent.

Classic long mixed climb under and to the left of cable car to Aiguille du Midi. Short passage of grade 5 climbing and 70 degrees ice

Up through the glorious roof crack on the left of the face then on to the top.

Alternative start to "Le pont des soupir".

From the Albert 1er hut, go to the signal Reuilly, then cross the Tour glacier in direction of South-East. Continue toward the rocky West face of Tête Blanche and go around it by the South.

Ice climbing couloir with some mixed pitches ( depending on conditions). Fixes bolted belays for rappeling down the route. 300m of difficulties.

There're bolts in cruxes. So grab 3-4 quick draws and descent gear along with glacier safety gear

A long scramble approach that requires route-finding skills to get to the summit pyramid. The summit pyramid contains 9 pitches of climbing with traversers. Alpine classic.

Major ice route in isolated location with serious glacier approach. Long descent via Whymper couloir and Glacier to Charpoa hut.

The route of the first ascensionists. A long glacier climb starting at Plan du Midi

A grand route on high altitude mainly on Snow up to 45 degrees. Starting point Ghiglione hut 3690m.

Must do direct line, alternating crack (no fixed gear) and slabs (bolted). The 7a section is a short 10 m with 3 bolts, the rest is sustained with everything between 6b and 6c