Routes in Les Aiguilles Rouges

Well bolted pitches up 3 Gneiss gendarmes finishing towards the top of the Col du Brévent ridgeline.

P1 - 5c. Face and crack climbing lead to a good ledge.

P2 - 5a. Follow the bolts to the next ledge.

P3 - 5a. Fun pitch ending in some great stemming between two gendarmes. Long slings handy. 10m rap to the start of the next pitch.

P4 - 5a. Climb the crack. A short traverse left then back right leads to the start of P6.

P5 - There are 2 options, trend left 5c or climb the steep face at 6b (crux)

P6 - Short traverse followed by 20m abseil. Walk up approximately 100m to the right gendarme (a round red marker highlights the start of the pitch 7)

P7- 5b. Straight forward face climbing.

P8- 5a. Long slings handy to reduce rope drag. From the top, it's a 2nd class scramble down to the left gendarme.

P9 - 5b. Walk off the backside.

Alpine sport route in unbelievable location and aspect. Incredible climbing! Steep, athletic and demanding with substantial run outs on most pitches. Rock is solid. Not suitable in high winds as exposed. Can be done on a 70m but better with twin ropes if you have to eject. Exposed! Finishes below the Gondola. Don't miss the last cable car down... 3 hour walk out!

From Rockfax:

6 - 8 hours.

One of the most popular routes in the valley. The scrambling is excellent throughout and the rock quality is consistently good until the initial part of the descent, but this is low-angled and brief. Other than the pegs on the first pitch and bolts on the abseil, the route is unequipped so you'll need a rack, albeit a fairly small one.

Approach:

From the top of the Index chairlift, descend towards Lac Blanc for 50m then take the jeep track on the left which takes you up towards the Grande Floria and Aiguillette de la Floria. Just after the path branches off to the Grande Floria, the jeep track crests a small col and begins to descend rightwards. When it does this, cut off left and pass under the Aiguillette de la Floria and then climb up to the top of the Floria drag lift. 20m past the drag lift take a path off left, across the scree slope and under the foot of Pointe Gaspard before climbing the gully above, on the left initially, following a grassy path. Continue up the path to the col. The final rocky step to the col is up a left-slanting crack which may feel a bit tricky if wet, so you may be glad of a rope on this section. From the col, go east over 50m of easy ground, along a vague ledge system up and rightwards, underneath the Crochues west ridge to reach the foot of the chimney which marks the start of the route - around 1 hour from the chairlift.

1. 4a. Climb the deep-cut chimney (4a, 35m) passing a couple of pegs on the way to a ledge with plenty of good spikes for belays. There are some loose rocks around the belay spikes, so be careful not to knock anything down.

2. Go up and rightwards (passing to the right of the big boulder on the skyline) and follow easy, grassy terrain to the crest of the Crochues west ridge. You should join the ridge near the bolt belay at the end of routes 2 and 3, although you can join it just about anywhere. Follow the ridge easily for 70m (you can walk below it on the left if it is busy or wet) until the ridge drops away steeply and you are faced with a short descent down to a tower.

3. 3b. Descend towards the tower on the north side of the ridge for 5m, before coming around to the south side of the tower and making an easy but exposed traverse across the south face. A 10m abseil back onto the north side allows you to pass the next, smaller tower on its north side, before climbing a short wall and slab (3b) to regain the ridge crest. The slab section can be bypassed on the south side of the ridge by following a grassy path.

4. Continue easily along the crest with interest until the summit. From the summit descend 30m back down the ascent route before turning east and following the ridge easily to the (marginally higher) north summit.

Descent:

From the north summit, descend to Lac Blanc by scrambling down the Crochues North Ridge for 100m to where the ridge widens out and becomes less solid. Drop off the ridge rightwards and descend a scree/snow slope eastwards towards Lac Blanc. This slope is often snowy well into the summer season but it is the ideal angle for glissading so you can normally get away without crampons. If you leave the crampons behind and realise you need them for the descent, it is possible to carry on along the Crochues north ridge towards the Col du Dards. Shortly before reaching this the ridge drops steeply away and from here, make a 20m abseil east to reach the scree/snow slope where the angle is much lower. Continue down to Lac Blanc and either return to the Index chairlift (45 minutes from Lac Blanc) on an undulating path or descend down to the Flégère cable car (90 minutes).

Entrée en matière la plus douce pour les voies de plusieurs longueurs. Voie équipée sur broches scellées (espacement montagne). Tous les relais sont chaînés et équipés pour les rappels. 7 à 8 dégaines max par longueurs. Voie très fréquentée en été.

A classic slab climb with some tricky route finding. A few bolts guiding the way over the slabs, otherwise small cams and nuts. Depending on season you may need crampons and axe for approach & descent.

A superb intro to alpine climbing. Short pitches and varied climbing, cracks, face, slab and chimneys. 2 rappels and one tyrolean traverse. Lots of rope-work training.

A nice bolted climb with great views.

Start altitude: 2,225m

Approach: From the top of the Index chairlift, head slightly left towards the buttress. The route is on the wall facing you. Enter the route from the right of the buttress, up where the terrain gets noticeably more vertical.

1. 4c, 50m.

2. 4c, 15m.

3. 4c, 35m.

4. 4b, 30m. Climb to the top of the intermediate spire.

5. 3a, 25m. Scramble rightwards across the small ridge and gap to the belay locates below the slabby wall on a large ledge.

6. 5a, 30m. Climb the wall above to top out.

Descent: Scramble down a route off the back of the buttress towards a loose gully between you and l’Index. Scramble generally leftwards down the gully towards an equipped 28m abseil. At the foot of the abseil walk directly back to the chairlift.

1. 5a

2. 4c

3. 4c

4. 4c

5. 5b

South Ridge to the South Summit An excelen, long bolted rock rout, F 5c - 1 move 6a.

1. 5b

2. 5b

3. 5c

4. 5c

5. 5b

6. 5b

7. 5C

8. 4a

9. I-II

10. I-II

11. 4b

12. 5c (6a)

13. III

In pitch 4, after crossing the couloir, hold left, following the couloir along the wall, instead of the easier but not so well protected variant through the dihedral.

4b / 4c selon topo

5b / 5c selon topo (et selon page du topo...)

Via Ferrata avec un pont de singe de 15m et un pont himalayen de 30m. Échappatoires possibles en de nombreux endroits. 1 heure de parcours. Très fréquenté.

Climb up center of face L of big corner.

6b / 6c selon topo

A mountaineering route very little fixed pro (4 pegs in total including belays). Some loose rock on route. Some very nice exposed climbing on summit ridge. Tiresome approach and descent over loose ground.