Ascents in Unterharz having Beta

Schlecht gebohrt ...

crimpy

interesting moves, but awkward clipping postions

Gefühlt eher 6/+

aptly named, consistently interesting

Top EV zur Kühnen Kante.

a bit too crispy in places

single-move crux

sustained technical difficulties

bouldery start, crux before ledge, strange and brittle at top

demands some flexibility

somewhat reachy at 2nd bolt

good holds all the way

sharp corner

Laut topo nur ne 4

Neuer und gut gesicherter Sportweg. Leider noch sehr flechtig, deshalb Wegfindung kurz mal schwierig. Macht aber echt Spaß. Danke Detlef!

After the ring bolt still tricky

well protectable, take long slings. Buoding the anchors requires long slings or tying off the trees, which are 5 m away.

more consistent than Entblockt; loose at the top, belay second from above.

Weird, short and fun bouldery route. Used an excellent but painful hand jam to get over the bulge.

Updated grade (uiaa 5) from the hake guide, feels realistic to me - apparently, there used to be some loose blocks on the ledge, making the route considerably easier (III)

Climbed in 2 pitches. The first was a scary vegetated hike with a friction-y crack/dihedral finish, the second a cool slab with slopey holds and nice exposure.

Definitely a fun and exciting climb, but no hard moves.

Same grade in the hake guide, but felt #soft

stemming dusty ledges

stemming dusty ledges

Careful with the hollow flake (which is more like a thin pillar) in the lower third - doubtful if a threaded sling will hold a fall. More reasonable stoppers can be placed higher.

harder than it looks

long varied line

single crux move at the bolt.

Hm. Decent friction climbing puzzle getting off the ground, the rest was unremarkable. Climbed like in the hake guide -> left/straight up after 2nd bolt, skipped the 3rd (nuts instead).

Ok I guess. Graded uiaa 5+ in the hake guide, but V seems more realistic.

Dirty, loose rocks on final ledge. If you want toprope this route, consider using last bolt as anchor.

Oben raus brüchig, viel loses Gestein zwischen letztem Haken und Umlenker.

the hand crack (~4 m) is the nice part, the rest is gardening

short climbing along edge

fuzzy course, protections difficult.

well protected, take stoppers for crack above.

somewhat awkward starting moves for this grade

Fun hike with a tight squeeze and some serious rope drag

Trickreiche Züge in verhältnismäßig gutem Gestein

Schöne einstiegsroute - extrem schöne Aussicht oben!

Leider etwas brüchig. Wenn alles fest, dann super Züge mit Ausdauerfaktor.

2nd go

2nd go

Schöne aber kurze Kletterei an Leisten und einem Riss.

Fun crack+face climb with a delicate start and more thuggy finish, w/o left or right edge.

Biner (not draw) in the ring, excellent placements higher up.

Klasse Weg mit toller Kantenkletterei. Es lassen sich 2 Haken vom Nachbarweg mitnutzen, um die betagten Ringe zu entschärfen.

Sehr schöne Tour mit tollen Bewegungen.

Zwei knifflige Platten. Evtl. oberen Haken verlängern. Super!

Kurze, aber wunderschöne Fingerübung und dazu bestens mit 2 Haken gesichert! Toll!

Crux vom Haken wegzukommen. Sehr technisch. Super Weg!

Recht schwere Einzelzüge an Taschen und Leisten die erstmal gefunden werden wollen. Ersten Haken evtl. vorklippen.