Ascents in Falkenstein

7- Variante an der Crux

nice final crack

Route is 7.

#zuerich-AW-2014 #FHNW #mittag very nice but very slippery due to fog

Hard-looking start which resolves nicely, but a spotter is nice, as you cannot climb the first bolt when getting established on the face.

Nice route, but beware: There are three bolts, total. Much of this thing is complete no-fall zone. The run-out to the top (which is to the right of the trees on the plateau) is at least 7 m.

Could ne nice, but completely covered with moss and therefore dangerous. Better rapell from up if you want to reach the mid-routes!

Access for the middle band above. Very mossy and wet in parts. Old (some truly ancient) pitons on the ramp away from the crack, newer bolts when climbing directly on the crack, which I think is the "Variante".

Definitely not a nice route, but still the best access from below.

Hmm irgendwie zu nass heute

#zuerich-AW-2014 #FHNW #mittag

Foot slip on foggy-wet moss.

Start is tough on downsloping and right-facing holds. I suggest to go right around the arete, which seems to fit the grade better than face climbing up the left side.

The roof crux felt harder than 5c, but such is life with old UIAA grades.

Nice route but bad and dangerous bolting, so we aborted.

Wrong beta in the crux.