Routes as sport in Dörenther Klippen

Project ?, direct line to the top. Shares the start with route 26.

Fr. 8a. Through the crux of Alien, reverse the traverse of Die Hexe then the top crux of Banane ohne Rampe.

Very eliminate. neither hands nor feet are allowed on the ramp and some people say the good undercling before the first crux is also eliminated.

Fr 7b. Start up Banane to 2nd bolt, then traverse left to finish up Alien.

Einstieg links vom Professorenweg. Ohne Benutzen der Griffe des Professorenwegs. Ausstieg über Route 6

Start in No Hand Rest, cross over to pliseedach and finish in bruhlmachine. Follow the line on top. The alternative line starts lower and follows the obvious diagonal groove, around 9/9+

Fr 7a+. An eliminate up the overhanging wall without using the ramp for your hands. 3 bolts, 2nd bolt tricky to clip. Easier for the tall.

Alternate start for Sleeper in Metropolis

Start as for Plisseedach, but then trend slightly towards the right on easy climbing until the bolt in the roof... one hard move is all that stands between you and success!

Same as for Gaukler Variante, but at the first bolt go direct (right) ofter the blank area instead of left to the two slots

Morpho start to first bolt. Traverse right then up to second bolt. Finally join the diagonal crack and and finish easily on Ausfallriß

Start in 'No Hands Rest' then follow the prow to the right and exit to the top.

Athletic moves to the first bolt, very techy crux, and then very enjoyable to the top.

Grade has increased over the years due to a hold at the crux getting worn down.

To stop this getting even worse, at the first bolt use a locker instead of a quickdraw (seems like the damage was caused by quickdraws rubbing on the hold)

Kurz und knackig. Lässt man von der Kante die Finger, erreicht man den unteren 8. Grad.

Topo in guidebook does not reflect the original line: start as for Muskelriß then head right to join the route.

I once heard the crux described as "a vacuum of holds" and that feels about correct. Possibly significantly (?) harder if you're not tall.

To the 3rd bolt of 'Schinder kante', then traverse right and finish up 'Alien' after its crux.

Start under the small roof. head right and then up onto the small band to clip the 3rd bolt. continue straight up where the bolt is, don't be tempted to cheat by going left or right

start at the vertical crack, then left along the horizontal crack to first bolt

An eliminate route near the right corner. To earn a clean ascent you're only allowed to use the main face, not the corner.

Shares the top with mach mir den horst. Cruxy start with high first bolt.

Previously Route 10

Previously Route 7

Absolute classic. Start directly under the roof near the rusty old ringbolt at ground level.

Head up the slab to a high first bolt, then through the roof and follow the crack to the anchor.

Durch Rißdach klemmend empor und weiter durch verwachsenen Riß. Schwierig bei Nässe.

Through the roof, then up the slab to the lower-off on the right hand side.

A classic!

There used to be an easier variant which started 1m right and then joined the main route at the 2nd bolt. this variant avoids the crux and was graded V-

Start as for Wellenreiter, but where Wellenreiter heads left continue up to the highest anchor.

The topos of the most recent editions of the guidebook mix up several routes here, and swap the names.