Ascents in Crete

A true epic. We did our best decisions that we could make however a true Alpinism experience is needed in handling hard mountain terrain, loose rock and crumbling moraines.

Path finding is challenging. It’s true that the steep parts have relatively good rock but many loose blocks and pieces can be observed. An inexperienced climber can easily come off together with them.

Took us 10 hours to pass through. According to some local guide we mixed the route with no.7 but after the loads of preparation and looking again in our aftermath we followed the only logical line with the most solid rock at all times.

This route is not hard from a climbing perspective but surely it is from: exposure, path finding, managing several sections of very loose rock and keeping heightened senses when climbing the “solid” parts.

Prepare for a long day out and if it’s cold make sure to have gear to sleep in if you lost your way. We were lucky to top out in the dark on the final boulder fields.

3 stars are given not for rock quality just for an overall classic mountaineering experience.

Attention. I do not recommend this route. Long runouts, more difficult than 5b and potential for a grounder. I aborted the climb through. Possibly this route is only meant to be a toprobe route (as indicated here) and the first bolts belong to the route "Le Ventre de Dionosos".

Got a bit sharp and offwidth, but thoughtful moves

Just hold your head up and dont look back!