Routes in Greece for selected grade

No anchors

A mix route that follows the natural lines of the water grooves and cracks. Necessary equipment: 14 quickdraws, a set of nuts and a couple of medium friends. The first pitch is missing a bolt.

Partly bolted variation left of the original line. Joins 'Pillar of Fire (Original)' after the third pitch.

www.routes.gr/?Page=el/Climbing/Routes/KopsiTonAeton

Left in the valley face corner crack and wall (6 bolts, 60m). At ledge traverse left to 2nd belay of "West Ridge".

The only trad route on the whole island. Bolted belays pitch 1, 2 and 3. Standard rack.

Descent: Afterb finishing go left on the peakalong the gorge (sector "Eiar" on the other side). ftThe only trad route on the whole island. After 30min you reach the red hiking trail going down.

Descent 2: Rappelling from trees to the bolted belays of pitch 1, 2 and 3.

1+1+0+0+0 bolts. Topo see guidebook.

If your are not sure for the grade, medium and small friends are usefull. The crux at the first pitch is a roof bellow the belay. The 2nd pitch starts and finish with a roof. The 3rd is a nice crack after the crack scramble for 10meter and climb the last pitch 10meter slab with 1 bolt.

A very popular trad-style corner.

First pitch 6b/+ 40 meters , second pitch 35 meters. There is an anchor at the 30 meters of the first pitch if u want to do it with a single rope as a sport route . Or u can do the whole first pitch with a 100 m single rope but with drag issues . The 10 meters from the first to the second anchor of the first pitch are 6a/6a+ with 2 bolts . Requires trad gear (friends,nuts).

Partly bolted.

First pitch 6a/+ 40 meters , second pitch 35 meters. There is an anchor at the 30 meters of the first pitch if u want to do it with a single rope as a sport route . Or u can do the whole first pitch with a 100 m single rope but with drag issues . The 10 meters from the first to the second anchor of the first pitch are 6a/6a+ with 2 bolts . Requires trad gear (friends,nuts). Warning at the first bolt there is a huge block very chossy.

Same anchor with 4, the first part is a crack without bolts .

A wonderful route that follows a water groove up the east face of the Holy Ghost Guardian. Its groove and overhangs provide for some really nice if not surreal climbing on protruding cobblestones that seem eager to pop-out but (usually) they don't! Bolted to almost modern sport-climbing standards.

Party bolted.

Bolted belays. Location? Listed in the guide left of "Euaggelos".

The few existing sources say, it's an oldschool and hard to protect, crack/ chimney climb.

Partly bolted.

At the left hand side of the slab. Follow the ridge. Very loose rocks!

Four pitches of right facing corner system, followed by two pitches of a black water runnel to the summit of Holy Ghost. A brilliant outing.

While a trad route, there is fairly consistently a bolt every 6 to 8 metres, and somewhat closer on the 35 metres pitch 4 where the crack is wide.

Confident climbers will therefore be able to climb the route with a set of wires, and a set of cams up to BD3. More gear will obviously increase confidence further.

The belays are not clear on the route being typically only a single bolt, with trad gear to supplement. So just climb until you get pumped or run out of gear, then find a position you like.

Expect to do lots of laybacking. The nature of the crack system doesn't suit jamming.

Very loose rock. The first pitch is trad then you can follow the route "Gypas tis Thrakis"

Rappel down the route 'Pyrgos'

Requires some gear but has many bolts.

Forgotten is the next route after Gounaridi-Georgiadi(The classic). They meet at the end of the 3rd pitch of Forgotten and they merge.

After the pillar of The Classic, walk 20-30m and on your right immediately you will see a cave on the rock. There stands R1. First pitch on easy terrain (4, 15m, no bolts).

R2:behind the bushes there is an old bolt, clip it or not. Traverse a little bit to the right and then go straight up for the crux (could be attempted as A1). Many pitons and bolts. After the crux go right and find R2(2bolts) below the big tree.

R3:long but easy pitch, no bolts. Small nuts and friends are very useful. Go till you find the big ramp, where Forgotten and Gounaridi-Georgiadi meet to the same anchor.

Sometimes done in 2 pitches.

http://www.miliascamps.gr/index.php/el/mnu-climbingroutes-gr/21-climbingroutes/50-artclimbing-flabmeta-gr.html

You can use 2-3 bolts from the beginning of the route "O dromos gia ta asteria" and then nothing. This is a traditional route. You will find a piton after you have climbed more than half the route. The route moves mainly on a small wall split by a crack, then follows a system of smaller walls and ledges. Set up your own belay at the top with slings on the rock spikes.

No anchors

Attention: until April 2023 this route has not yet been rebolted

A quite difficult route and it additionally has some dicey parts.

Difficult to put trad gear.

The rock quality at this route is very dicey.

Topo and description.

https://www.routes.gr/?Page=en/Climbing/Routes/MavroProvato

Topo and descripton.

Approach: From Leonidio drive towards Kosmas/Elona. After 10km, park at the Elona monastery view point (Limeri sector parking). Walk straight down to the river and climb to the other side to approach the base of the route (15 min).

Gear needed: Set of Camalots up to #2, nuts, 70m rope

1. 3 bolts

2. 2 bolts

3. no bolts

4. 2 bolts

5. 3 bolts

Bolted belays.

“Anemologio” (VI+, 120m) was set on 23/3/1993 by Titopoulos, Kouniakis and Bailey.

The first pitch (30m) moves on a slab until a small horizontal crack with one bolt (V+), it continues upwards from the left side on a slab until the anchors. (2 bolts, and cord)

The second pitch (30m) follows a corner from up untill the anchors. (2 bolts)

The third pitch (30m) begins straight upwards and moves towards and inside the dihedral crack (VI+, 1 bolt). The pitch ends some meters to the left after exiting the crack. (2 bolts).

The fourth and last pitch (30m) moves on the slab above the anchors, after the third bolt moves left towards the crack at the end of it on the slab are the anchors (2 bolts).

Necessary Equipment: Set of Nuts, Set of Friends (up to Camalot #3) and a few slings and cords.

Rappelling down is done from 2 rappel stations each of 55m from R4 and R2. With 50m ropes follow R4,R3,R2,R1.

2 bolts at the exit of the 2nd pitch. There are bolted anchor points. Nuts and friends needed.

What you aim for, is the crack. To get there parallel movement is possible for the first 2 pitches (low difficulty) but belays and normal leading are recommended due to loose rock. Return left from the exit, work your way down by walking and scrambling, towards the sea. It is a rather long walk. Try to end up on the ledges above the water then do a tricky traverse right to reach the beach. Taking walking shoes with you is recommended. In rough seas completing the traverse without getting we is a challenge. The best part of the route is the top crack. This has to be climbed in two pitches (make your own belay on natural protection under a small overhang) if the party does not have as many large friends and hexs as required.

30m

Trad, needs nuts and friends. Bolted anchor in place

A really hard trad route with difficulties on placing gear. The most difficult route in the south face.