Routes in Indonesia for selected grade

Nice flat ledges for foot placements.

Crack.

Slab. 5b on 8a.nu. 6a on mountainproject.

Start by climbing up the mossy slab to a super fun undercling and traverse. Move into slabby terrain before going far left to follow the crack to the anchor. Lots of varied handholds. Get on this!

Face wall and slab.

A short route with a "bouldery" style overhang at the start. Fairly easy climb other than the overhang boulder section. Note: you can cheat the route for an easier ascent by not using the overhang and going for the right section (towards Kopi Pagi). Very new bolts; bolted January 2023. Top rope ready and with MR/chain for easy top-out cleaning.

Right of "Sobat".

Video.

Fun climb with crux near the top. Right of the Wave arete.

Some trees.

The most left route on Block D.

No Anchor... The last fixed gear is one bold.

Possible loose block near the penultimate hanger.

No Anchor... The last fixed gear is one bold.

#SD The south face of the 2nd pillar. Using the central-right of the face.

Great little traverse with the same beginning sequence as the other lines. Make sure you have confident feet as you traverse out.

#SD The south side of the 2nd pillar. Using the right side of the left arete.

Old route on the slab made in the early 90's. Probably by Skygers with the usual Pakong hangers. Rebolted in september 2016.

A classic slab route, perfect for beginner-intermediate level, can be projected without being cleaned & can be topped out.

Crack slab.

FA was a seige style climb in 1987 by a group of seven high school students from Jakarta (Innosanto Nagara, Tommy Chandra, Syahrul Rachman, David Ruus, Heru, Arief Hendro, and Robbie Irfan), supported by climbers from the Bandung-based climbing organization, Skygers (the late Sandy Febianto, Jati Pranoto, and Erik Prasetya).

The first ascent took almost two weeks, fixing ropes daily at each high point. Ramset bolts hand-drilled on lead, so the easy parts are pretty runout and the hard parts (ie. the roof) are essentially a bolt ladder. The team ran out of bolts for the last four pitches of 5.4-5.6 climbing so the only protection on those pitches is single bolt anchors.

Not sure if the route has been repeated, and very unlikely it's been rebolted, so any protection you find at this point would be unusable.

Most obvious line up to the big roof on the West face of Mt. Parang. Where the gully meets the roof go right and then straight up the yellow overhanging face on the bolt run.

No Anchor... the last fixed gear is one bold.

All of the bolts in this line have been rebolted using a titanium bolt from Kak Nova Marselina.

Between 25 and 50 routes, from 5c to 8a.

Simple boulder in the middle of the beach - nice obvious but sharp holds

Starts as Sky Kong. Slab, crack, arete.

Overhang.

#SD The large face at the back, south-east corner of the block. Start with a low, right undercling then follow the crimps straight up.

Video.

You can practice boulder movements here on the flat wall.

Near the start of the rockface as you enter the beach. To the left of the first mini cave. Good start holds with a left heel hook. Then switch to a right heel for a long move up onto a big hold. Match and control the swing before mantelling

Fun route that starts with both hands on a juggy undercling. It’s very sharp. From the bottom of the steps at Samabe beach, walk down the beach towards the paragliding area (look for the paragliders in the sky). The boulder is quite far down, but is obvious as it is the large tree-festooned boulder in front of a horseshoe alcove. Start with both hands on the undercling and top out on the large jug beneath the tree line

Slab. 5b on mountainproject.

Slabby terrain with balancy moves near the anchor. The lower half is covered by moss during rainy season.

Topo.

Follow the large pockets and jugs straight up to the top just below the treeline. The left arrete on the cave that is home to The Shrimp Strikes Back.

Short boulder/TR climb everyone does. 5b here.