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Routes in Trentino-Alto Adige for selected grade

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Showing all 83 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity Crag
Trad
{UIAA} 4 Dibona-Kante

Gipfel auf 2762m, 10SL + 30m zum Gipfel

FA: A. Dibona, G. Jahn & K. Huter, 1917

Trad 400m, 11 Geislergruppe
{UIAA} 4 Spigola sud-est

Gipfel auf 2873m 19 SL 615m + 80m zum Gipfel

FA: K. Berger & C. Moroder, 1897

Trad 700m Geislergruppe
{UIAA} 4- Parete Sud

Gipfel auf 2814m 9SL 290m + 125m zum Gipfel

FA: G. Jahn, 1917

Trad 420m Geislergruppe
{UIAA} 4 Rampa del Torso

FA: Del Torso & Lezuo, 1935

Trad 300m, 10 Piz Ciavazes
{UIAA} 4 Via Normale

Via Normale alla cima più elevata delle Cinque Dita. Spesso II/III, soste cementate, alcuni cordoni in via.

FA: 1891

Trad 390m, 11 Cinque Dita
{UIAA} 4 Wolf von Glanwell / Normalweg
1 3+ 40m
2 3+ 32m
3 3 47m
4 2 32m
5 2 48m
6 3 43m
7 3 43m
8 3+ 42m
9 4- 27m
10 4- 38m
11 2 46m
12 1 45m
13 2 45m
14 3 50m
15 3+ 48m
16 4 22m
17 4 28m
18 3 35m
19 3 32m
20 2 45m

FA: Viktor Wolf von Glanwell & Karl Domenigg, 1904

Trad 790m, 20 Alpe di Siusi / Seiser Alm
{UIAA} 4- Via Normale
1 3 30m
2 3 30m
3 3- 25m
4 4- 30m
5 3 25m
6 4- 25m
7 4- 30m

FA: Helversen & Stabeler, 1892

Trad 200m, 7 Gruppo del Catinaccio
{UIAA} 4 via Pederiva Rizzi Camino sud/est
1 4 35m
2 4 25m
3 4- 40m
4 4 45m
5 3+ 30m
6 1 40m
7 4- 30m

http://quartogrado.com/volume1_1/relazioni/SASS%20PORDOI_Pederiva_A.htm

FA: M.Pederiva & A.Rizzi, 1922

Trad 250m, 7 Sass Pordoi
{UIAA} 4 Via del Rifugio sperone Nord/Ovest
1 4- 30m
2 4- 30m
3 4- 34m
4 3+ 28m
5 3+ 32m
6 4 34m
7 4 18m
8 4 45m
9 2 35m
10 3+ 38m
11 3 40m
12 3 48m
13 2 18m

https://www.bergsteigen.com/touren/klettern/torre-juac-via-del-rifugio/

Mixed trad 430m, 13, 5 Stevia
{UIAA} 4 Via dei Camini
1 4 35m
2 4- 20m
3 4- 15m
4 2 20m
5 3+ 30m

At the base of the SE face, looking at the grey pillars/buttresses, scramble up the rocks (I-II) aiming for the three cracks/chimneys that cut the wall at the start of vertical rock. The route starts on a small terrace at the base of these cracks, following the right-most chimney in the corner. There is 1 cemented piton and 1 normal piton.

As with all classic Dolomites routes, there are lots of variations to the pitch lengths/directions:

  1. Go up the short chimney, left at the top, then up a short distance to the anchor (1 glue-in piton with ring). (35m, IV/III, 2 pitons)

  2. Go up through the chimney/crack above the belay, then up the next wall, either deviating left or going straight up the corner crack, until you reach a grassy ledge. Continue past the bolt & ring. Continue up some more grassy steps until the base of the chimney and the anchor (1 bolt). (20m, III+, IV-, III +)

  3. Climb the chimney to the left of the anchor, continue all the way to the top (V-). Easier (IV-): follow the crack to the right, directly above the belay (not the chimney in the corner). At its end, go 1-2m more, up the little free-standing column and the chimney until you reach an obvious ledge between the two chimneys on the main wall. Traverse left along the ledge to the left chimney, to the left of the anchor below. Follow the easy chimney to the top with the anchor (1 glue-in bolt + ring). (15m, IV-, 2 pitons).

  4. Easy scrambling leads you to the top of the pillar with one bolt. A thrilling 1-metre jump of faith takes you across the sucking void to the anchor (Glue-in bolt with ring). (20m, II, 1 bolt, 1 piton)

  5. Go straight up from the belay for about 3 meters, then continue upwards over easy scrambling. One more small vertical sections leads you to the top of the climb, where you belay (1 glue-in piton) off a large boulder with some rubble, sligthly to the left. (30m, III +, II)

To reach the summit, walk up to the right around the boulder and scramble to the summit rocks.

http://quartogrado.com/volume1_2/relazioni/SELLA_foto/PRIMA%20TORRE_camini_sito.jpg

FA: M. Gabloner & Franz Kostner, 1905

Mixed trad 120m, 5, 5 Torri del Sella
{UIAA} 4 Sperone Nord-Ovest
1 3+ 38m
2 4 37m
3 4- 30m
4 3 37m
5 4 42m
6 4 30m
7 4 28m
8 4- 44m
9 4- 27m
10 4 31m
11 4 34m
12 4 27m

FA: Bepi de Freancesc & DamianoMugugliani, 1972

Trad 410m, 12 Sass Pordoi
{UIAA} 4 Via Hruschka
1 3 40m
2 4- 25m
3 4 40m
4 3 40m
5 3 40m
6 4 34m
7 4 43m
8 4- 34m
9 3+ 26m
10 3+ 35m
11 3+ 45m
12 3 35m
13 4 30m
14 2 34m
15 2 30m
16 4- 40m

https://www.alpenvereinaktiv.com/de/tour/hruschka-fuehre-westwand-col-toronn-2655-m-dolomiten-sella-sas/62110627/#dmdtab=oax-tab1

FA: H.Hruschka, 1921

Trad 570m, 16 Col Toronn
{UIAA} 4 Hoppetosse
1 4 35m
2 4 40m
3 3 30m
4 2 - 3 20m
5 4- 30m

https://www.alpenverein.it/de/kletterer-alpinisten/alpin/hoppetosse-schwarzwand-glaning-bozen-129_7985_157314.html

FA: Johannes Kaufmann & Peter Warasin, 2018

Trad 160m, 5 Jenesien
{UIAA} 4- Fessura di destra ( parete sud-ovest) Trad 130m, 4 Torri del Sella
{UIAA} 4 Diedro Glück

FA: F.Glück e Co, 1930

Trad 110m, 4 Torri del Sella
{UIAA} 4- Diedro Kostner

FA: M.Gabloner e F. Kostner, 1905

Trad 120m, 5 Torri del Sella
{UIAA} 4 Jaufenkante Nordkante
1 3 30m
2 3+ 35m
3 3+ 45m
4 3 45m
5 3 48m
6 2+ 55m
7 3- 45m
8 4 35m
9 4 60m
10 3 60m
11 2+ 45m
12 3 40m
13 3 60m

https://www.bergsteigen.com/touren/klettern/jaufenspitze-nordkante-jaufenkante/

Trad 600m, 13 Jaufenspitze Cima Giovo
{UIAA} 4 Via della Rampa
1 4- 34m
2 4 32m
3 3 45m
4 3+ 50m
5 4 50m
6 4 40m
7 4- 35m
8 2+ 21m
9 4 33m
10 2 33m
11 4 33m
12 3+ 38m

FA: G.Mersa & G.Marini, 1940

Trad 440m, 12 Sass Ciampac
{UIAA} 4 Via Gasperi

Soste con spit, cordoni con maglia rapida per calata da verificare.

Trad 130m Massiccio del Grostè
{UIAA} 4- Sperone Gross
1 2+ 20m
2 3+ 30m
3 3+ 50m
4 4- 30m
5 4- 45m
6 4- 30m
7 4- 30m

Itinerario classico con arrampicata varia e divertenete possibilitá di uscita alla settima lunghezza

FA: A.Gross & G.Pasolli, 1950

Trad 240m Gruppo del Catinaccio
{UIAA} 4 Via Rossi-Tomasi

Set: Rossi & Tomasi, 1945

Trad 290m, 8 Piz Ciavazes
{UIAA} 4- Parete Est
1 3 25m
2 3+ 25m
3 3 40m
4 4- 25m
Trad 120m, 4 Gruppo del Catinaccio
{UIAA} 4 Via Battisti
1 3 36m
2 4- 26m
3 4 30m
4 4 37m
5 3 25m

FA: G.Battisti, F.Biagi & S.Caldini, 2004

Trad 150m, 5 Gruppo del Catinaccio
{UIAA} 3 - 5 Parete ovest

Nice climb. Friend 3

Trad 270m, 9 Torri del Sella
{UIAA} 4 Via Tanesini
1 3 50m
2 3 40m
3 3 40m
4 3 45m
5 4 30m
6 4 30m
7 4 45m
8 4 30m
9 2 40m
10 4 25m
11 4- 30m

https://www.sassbaloss.com/pagine/uscite/sella11/sella11.htm

FA: Arturo Tanesini, Vincenzina Passalacqua & R. L. Bianino, 1934

Trad 410m, 11 Torre Fiechtl
{UIAA} 4 Pilastro Sud
1 4 32m
2 3+ 32m
3 3+ 47m
Trad 110m, 3 Gruppo del Catinaccio
{UIAA} 4 Pescoller Verschneidung
1 4- 35m
2 4- 40m
3 4 15m
4 4 55m
5 3+ 20m
6 3 40m
7 3 50m

https://www.alpenvereinaktiv.com/de/tour/sarner-scharte-pescoller-verschneidung/37819369/

FA: Heini Holzer & Hans Pescoller, 1969

Trad 260m, 7 Sarner Scharte
{UIAA} 4- Spigolo Sud
1 3 30m
2 4- 45m
3 4- 35m

l´ultimo tiro é diventato piu semplice a causa del distacco della proboscide

FA: J. Anhuber, H.Tomasi L.Mitterdorf, H.Tomasi & L.Mitterdorf, 1905

Trad 110m, 3 Gruppo del Catinaccio
{UIAA} 4 Sass Bece Westgrat
1 4 30m
2 3- 32m
3 4- 30m
4 4 35m
5 4- 35m
6 2 35m

https://www.bergsteigen.com/touren/klettern/sas-bece-westgrat/

Trad 200m, 6 Sass Bece
{UIAA} 4 via Rododendri
1 4 32m
2 4- 34m
3 3 25m
4 4- 27m
5 4 28m
6 4 35m

Attacco a una clessidra vicino a una lama a sinistra del canale. Primi due tiri sulla destra del canale, trasferimento 50m clessidra a sinistra del canale sulla torre. Salire a dx del canale. Tiro successivo attraversare il canale e procedere a sx appena sotto una nicchia gialla. Uscire a sx fino alla bare di una grande lama, poi dritti in vetta. Scendere sulla cresta sud 25m fino a una forcella, passare sulla parete est doppia 25m poi per prati direzione sud ovest fino all'attacco

FA: M.Bernardi & Ludovica Pineider, 2012

Mixed trad 180m, 6, 5 Piccola Torre
{UIAA} 4- Via Dibona (basso)

FA: A. Dibona, L. Rizzi, G. Mayer & M. Mayer, 1910

Trad 570m, 15 Sass Pordoi
{UIAA} 4 Dibona
1 4- 40m
2 4 20m
3 4 30m
4 4- 26m
5 4- 40m
6 4- 45m
7 4 25m
8 3+ 25m
9 4 40m
10 3+ 45m
11 3 30m

FA: A. Dibona, L. rizzi, M. Mayer & G. Mayer, 1910

Trad 370m Innerkoflerturm
{UIAA} 4 Del Tetto Trad 280m, 7 Piccolo Lagazuoi
{UIAA} 4 Giordano
1 3+ 30m
2 3 35m
3 2 33m
4 4 40m
5 3 20m
6 30m

https://www.gulliver.it/itinerari/lagazuoi-piccolo-giordano/#main

Trad 190m, 6 Piccolo Lagazuoi
{UIAA} 4 Via Dla condles

FA: M. Bernardi & L. Runggaldier, 2010

Trad 300m, 9 Sassolungo
{UIAA} 4 Via del Buco
1 4-
2 4
3 4
4 4
5 4
6 3+
7 4-
8 4-
9 2
10 3

https://www.bergsteigen.com/touren/klettern/via-del-buco-lagazuoi/

Trad 280m, 11 Piccolo Lagazuoi
{UIAA} 4 Via De Lorenzi

FA: G. De Lorenzi & P. Saccardo, 1942

Trad 340m, 9 Sassolungo
{UIAA} 4 Cip & Co
1 4
2 4

FA: E. Cipriani, P. Zanolli, T. Cavattoni & O. Pavan, 1990

Trad 60m, 2 Piccolo Lagazuoi
{UIAA} 4 Via Dimai
1 3 30m
2 3 45m
3 3 30m
4 3 30m
5 3+ 40m
6 4- 20m
7 4 45m
8 4 40m
9 4 20m
10 3+ 45m
11 4- 50m
12 2 45m
13 3+ 45m

FA: A. Dimai, J. Summermatter, R. v. Eötvös & I. v. Eötvös, 1908

Trad 490m Punta Grohmann
{UIAA} 4 Neverland
1 4 15m
2 4 40m
3 3 18m
4 3 20m
5 3 25m
6 4 25m
7 2 25m
Trad 170m, 7 Corna Rossa
{UIAA} 4 Südostkante

Gipfel auf 2814m. 565m kletterstrecke + 160m vom Vorgipfel zum Gipfel

FA: G. Leuchs, 1904

Trad 730m, 15 Geislergruppe
Sport
3c Pettirosso
Sport 6m Valle del Sarca
3c Cip & Ciop
Sport 12m Valle del Sarca
3c Crash
Sport 22m Valle del Sarca
3c N.N.
Sport Valle del Sarca
3c N.N.
Sport Valle del Sarca
3c N.N.2
Sport Valle del Sarca
3+ Il Camino

Shares anchor with Tecnologica.

Sport Croz de le Niere
3c Idefix Sport 8m Pragser Wildsee
3c No name 3 Sport Pfelders
{UIAA} 4 Wasserfall Sport 190m, 7 Wasserfall
3c No name 6 Sport Pfelders
3c La diagonal Sport Rovereto
{UIAA} 4 Via del 46° parallelo
1 3+ 28m
2 2+ 28m
3 4 30m
4 3 28m
5 3+ 20m
6 2+ 22m
7 1 15m

FA: H. Steinkotter, 1969

Sport 170m, 7 Valle del Sarca
3c Chiocciola Sport Sass De Stria
{UIAA} 4 Via Freccia
1 2 25m
2 3 25m
3 3+ 25m
4 3 20m
5 4 30m
6 3 20m
Sport 150m, 6 Torri del Sella
3c Moses Sport Juval
{UIAA} 4 Via Freccia bis
1 4 27m
2 4 22m
3 4- 29m
4 4 29m
5 4- 29m

Bastano 5 rinvii

https://www.bergsteigen.com/touren/klettern/freccia-bis-erster-sellaturm/

Sport 140m, 5 Torri del Sella
3c Via C.G.
1 3b
2 3b
3 3c
Sport 90m, 3, 3 Valle del Sarca
3c Aspiranti 07
Sport 15m Nago
{FB} 3+ R2 Sport Valle di Daone
3c Tallian
Sport 12m Nago
3c Troy de Röses Sport 7m Gruppo del Catinaccio
3+ Ciliegio
Sport 10m Valle del Sarca
3+ Leccio
Sport Valle del Sarca
3c Via Bottoni Bianchi
1 3b
2 3c
3 3b
4 3b
Sport 100m, 4 Valle del Sarca
{UIAA} 4 Via dimensione terzo
1 3 60m
2 3 60m
3 4- 45m
4 3+ 55m
5 4 70m
6 4- 60m
7 4- 60m
8 3+ 45m
9 3+ 45m

FA: M. Brighente, G. Bogoni, R. Soave & R. Pasetto, 2007

Sport 500m, 9 Valle del Sarca
3c 1
Sport Valle del Sarca
3c 1
Sport Valle del Sarca
3c 2
Sport Valle del Sarca
{UIAA} 4 Senza nome 4
Sport 20m Pozza Vecia
{UIAA} 4 Senza nome 5
Sport 20m Pozza Vecia
{UIAA} 4 Senza nome 6
Sport 20m Pozza Vecia
{UIAA} 4 Via Lo Spigolo Nascosto
1 3+ 45m
2 3+ 50m
3 3+ 35m
4 3 50m
5 2+ 45m
6 4 38m

Guidebook

FA: F. Kucklner & H. Grill, 5 May 2015

Sport 260m, 6, 7 Valle del Sarca
Boulder
{FB} 3C Harmloses Wändchen

#sd

Boulder Etsch Flussboulder
{FB} 3C Weird

#sd

Boulder Etsch Flussboulder
Alpine
{UIAA} 4 MIXED:M5 Aquädukt
1 4
2 M5

FA: Simon Gietl & Davide Prandini, 7 Nov 2020

Alpine 650m Wasserkopf
{UIAA} 4 Hintergrat

Classic alpine ridge. AD, 4, 40° Ice.

Description

Topo

FA: J. Pichler, 1805

Alpine 900m, 4 Ortler
{UIAA} 4 Dibona

FA: A. Dibona, L. Rizzi, G. Mayer & M. Mayer

Alpine Punta Grohmann
{UIAA} 4 Hochjochgrat Alpine Ortler
{UIAA} 4- Enzensberger

FA: J. Enzensberger & L. Chelminski, 1895

Alpine Punta Grohmann
{UIAA} 4- Rampenführe

FA: G. Haupt, 1907

Alpine 1000m, 17 Sassolungo
{UIAA} 4 Pichl-Route

Longest and most appealing route in the Dolomites of the Val Gardena. It is difficult to find the right directions. After the long ascent a long descent must be taken into account.

FA: R. Pichl & R. Weizer, 1918

Alpine 1000m, 27 Sassolungo

Showing all 83 routes.

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