Routes in Trentino-Alto Adige for selected grade

a mix of bolts and rock tunnels and a few pegs for protection at moderate distances. bring only quickdraws. the last long pitch can be split by building an anchor at a solid tree in case you don't want to deal with too much rope drag.

Start of the climb: GPS 46.508,11.303 A few cams and slings can be useful.

The area around the start of the climb has been obviously cleared of vegetation, and the rock cleaned. You can see a tree with a fixed sling approx. 5 metres off the ground from the base.

1. [35m, V] Follow the crack diagonally up to the left, around a tree with a thread. Trend right up the slab following bolts up to the horizontal crack in the overhang. Traverse under the overhang to the right and then sightly to the right up to the anchor o 2 bolts.

2. [30m, 5b+] From the belay, go left to the small wall with bolts. After that cross upwards to the left again to the next wall and follow the bolts to the bolted anchor.

3. [25m, IV +] Up the slabs (3 bolts) to a ledge. Follow this for 5 bolts, immediately after, you find the anchor (2 bolts).

4. [50 m, II, 1 bra] The Borneo Expedition. Up approx. 5m to the fixed rope, follow the rope through bushes and ledges to the next stand at two bra. Watch out for the loose rocks! (Variant on the standard route: go right for 20m and you will see the two new pitches up the corner: 1. pitch: 5c, 20m 9 bolts. 2. pitch: 6a+, 30m, 14 bolts November 2021 / Dennis Moser and Gabriel Mangera)

5. [35 m, IV +] Follow the arete, very nice climbing with little pockets and and knobs. Anchor on two bolts.

6. [35 m, V-] Continue up nice climbing on arete/slab nice up to a ledge. Climb next small wall with a crack (1 bolt). Official anchor on fixed tat off large pine tree. Recommended to use first bolt of pitch 7 and slung rock as anchor. Rope drag & directional pull better.

7. [45 m, IV+] Continue up corner, follow 3 bolts up to a vertical wall, go around to the right, up some blocky ledges (1 bolt). Pass a slung tree to the right, and over the last small wall to the anchor (2 BH)

Descent: From the top anchor, follow the tracks to the right. They lead you down to the dirt track a about 100 m from the farm house.

A few pitons and some rope tied through rock tunnels. Each belay has 1 bolt + a tree or rock tunnel. No trad gear needed except extra slings, but a few medium/large nuts would reduce the often long run-outs.

After passing the Lokomotiv, go along the southwest wall of the First Tower until you reach a recess, with pillars on the right and left. The route runs along the evident dihedral slightly inclined to the right.

1. Scramble up slightly loose rock to the base of the prominent Trenker Crack. Anchor on pitons, to the left of the crack immediately after the small vertical section. (30m, III)

2. Climb the slightly right-trending crack. Before the crack becomes vertical, traverse 2-3 to the right to a small ledge with the anchor (1 big glue-in bolt). (35 m, IV-)

3. Climb over the easy overhang above the belay, then slightly left to the dihedral. Follow the dihedral, past a steeper polished section protected by a bolt, until you reach a good belay on a ledge. (1 bent glue-in bolt + 2 pitons). (35m, V+)

4. Follow the dihedral up, to the right of the small column, following the slightly polished crack. Continue until the next belay (1 glue-in bolt). (35m, III+) 1 piton.

5. 2 options for this pitch:

a) Head up a couple of metres before leaving the crack and traversing diagonally right up an easy slab to a large ledge. Anchor on two glue-in bolts in the middle of the ledge.

b) Continue up the crack to the top before stepping out right on the ledge, belay on two pitons, OR belay on the right of this directly under the chimney of the final pitch (2 glue-in bolts). (25m, IV-)

1. Traverse another 2-3 meters to the right on the ledge, then follow the yellowish rocks up the chimney to the top. From here, via easy rocks, exit onto the wide ridge that leads to the top of the tower and the anchor (1 glue-in bolt). (30m, IV-) 2 pitons

2. Optional to reach summit: Follow the path to the left to reach the summit of the 1st Sella Tower. (40m, I)

Descent:

a) Abseil from summit: To the right of the saddle between 1st/2nd towers, follow the ridge ~30m to an abseil (40m).

OR

b) Descent by the "Via Normale" From the summit, follow the obvious path that leads to the saddle between the First and Second Sella Towers, then continue around the 2nd Tower, following the rock piles/cairns.

At a crossroads, take the path that turns right down the steep gully towards the valley. There are points where downhill climbing is required, never higher than II.

Here, the abseil and the Via Normale join up again. Shortly before the base of the wall, the trail separates to the left and right. To the right, there are two abseil anchors (top 35m, bottom 25m). To the left there is a downclimb (grade II).

Once at the base, follow the path to the right to return to the parking lot.

Takes a line up the centre of the 3rd Tower with a steep crack leading to the crux overhang above the big ledge at 2/3 height.

Utile qualche kevlar e frend per integrare http://www.planetmountain.com/Rock/vie/itinerari/scheda.php?lang=ita&id_itinerario=1586&id_tipologia=38

Another TOPO at https://www.bergsteigen.com/touren/klettern/der-koenig-des-sees-il-re-del-lago/

5 obl.

The old guide http://arrampicata-arco.com/via-sole-e-pioggia.html is incorrect.

A better guide can be found at bergsteigen.com.

http://www.gardaclimbing.it/via/il-sogno-di-carlo/

https://business.facebook.com/Arrampicataledro/photos/pcb.3115741278459519/3115734828460164/?type=3&theater

https://www.bergsteigen.com/touren/klettern/il-sogno-di-carlo-cima-capi/

https://www.planetmountain.com/Rock/vie/itinerari/scheda.php?lang=ita&id_itinerario=303&id_tipologia=38

http://quartogrado.com/volume2_1/relazioni/LAGAZUOI_Maurizio%20Speciale.htm

https://www.casa-alfredino.co.uk/alpine-climbing/m-speciale-piccolo-lagozuoi-vi/

https://www.bergsteigen.com/touren/klettern/via-linda-arco/

Storica via che parte dallo Stradone Provinciale e conduce in vetta per l'esposta parete est

https://verticalage.blogspot.com/2018/01/val-di-ledro-nuova-via-alla-regina-del.html?m=1

1. Scramble up the grey blocky rocks to the base of the crack. Clip the cemented piton anchor. Follow the crack, interrupted by small overhangs, up to the belay (3 pitons). (35 m, V)

2. Diagonally to the left, then up to the dihedral/gully that you follow until an overhang forces you to move slightly to the right. Follow the short dihedral that ends on a ledge with the belay (2 bolts, chain & ring). (30m, IV-)

3. Reach the dihedral to the left of the belay and follow it. At its end, a gully leads to a ledge with a small cave. Move a little to the right to the belay (2 bolts). (25m, IV+)

4. Climb directly above the cave, following the crack on the left. (2 pitons). (20m, V)

5. Follow the dihedral gully up to the saddle. Along the ridgeline you reach the top of Torre Stabeler with the anchor (cemented piton). (40m, IV)

Via alpinistica storica aperta da Bruno Detassis e Natale Vidi nel 1946. Le soste sono attrezzate con chiodi e di recente sono stati aggiunti alcuni spit (solo in sosta).

http://quartogrado.com/volume1_2/relazioni/TORRE%20EDWARDS_Gracchio_A.htm

Via storica che sale direttamente la parete nord est del Crozzon di Brenta. Rientro lungo e complesso per la via Normale al Crozzon di Brenta e della Cima Tosa

Perfect dihedral a long the complete tower. Wild and very remote.

Completamente da attrezzare e pulire Attacco in un diedro/camino 30m a sinistra di Sonntagspatziergang molto bella la placca del terzo tiro

Nice crack, at the top go to the right to reach the chain of La Cros.

https://www.planetmountain.com/rock/dolomiti/itinerari/scheda.php?lang=ita&id_itinerario=2338&id_tipologia=38

#standstart

Northwest Edge of the Meisules.

Via classica su roccia ottima Comodo avvicinamento dal rifugio Agostini

#standstart

#sd

https://www.bergsteigen.com/touren/klettern/spigolo-maxentia-due-laghi/

From far away, you can spot the start of route by finding: a) the circular black hole in the wall then b) up to the right, another black mark on the wall then c) down to the right, the starting boulder with the permanent snowfield to the right of the boulder.

At the base of the cliff, above the boulder is the start of the route (1 piton with fixed cord). If you start from the ground, P1 is approx. 55m. Otherwise, scramble to the top of the boulder (recommended so that your gear doesn't get wet in the afternoon snowmelt)

1. Climb the slab, wandering a little L and R to find gear and the bolts. Go up to the small ledge with the anchor (2 bolts + cord + quick link). 9 bolts.

2. Go up briefly on the slab, then move to the right. Soon afterwards, move to the left, following the crack all the way to a ledge where you find the belay. There is an abseil anchor 10m to right of the climbing anchor do not use this (2 bolts + cord + quick link). 4 bolts, 4 pitons.

3. Sharply diagonally to the left around the base of the small column, then up into the gully (initially crumbly), which goes up and slightly to the right. Some stemming an another bolt leads you to the belay, on top of a small pillar, vertically above the last anchor (1 bolt + 1 piton + cord + rings). 1 bolt.

4. Go up vertically from the belay, cross an overhang and continue to the next belay (2 bolts + rope + quick link). 3 bolts, 1 fixed sling.

5. Continue slightly diagonally to the right, aiming for a mini-cave with a yellowish overhang, under which find the anchor. (2 bolts + cord + quick link). 3 fixed slings.

6. Move 2m to the right, and go up the improbably easy overhang. Easier climbing leads to the next anchor (3 bolts + 1 hourglass + cord + quick link) 1 bolt, 1 piton, 2 fixed slings.

7. Go slightly to the right, around the final overhang, then continue vertically up to the anchor on top of the White Pillar (2 pitons + cord + abseil rings). 1 fixed sling.

Descent:

Abseil the route, using the anchors. (1h-1h30) Many of the 40m pitches are possible to abseil on a 70m rope with rope stretch, as the route zig-zags a lot. For pitch 1 & 2 which are very vertical, a 50m pull-cord or second rope is necessary.

For pitches 6 & 7 a single rope is recommended to avoid the rope getting stuck. Be very careful, there are lots of horns/features to trap your rope!

Partly marked route (red markers) at the Punta Alpini. Emergency decent possible after pitch 5 (yellow markers). Topo: https://www.bergsteigen.com/touren/klettern/suedkante-punta-alpini/

Via dedicata a Davide Pinamonti, caduto scalando la parete Nord di Punta Massari nel giugno del 2011. Quasi tutte le soste con un chiodo e uno spit, un passaggio in A0 con quattro spit e cordone. Può essere utile una staffa.

Via "plaisir" con spit lungo i tiri e qualche posibilità di integrare che raggiunge la prima grande cengia Castelletto Inferiore

Nice climb. Friend 3

Parte a destra del secondo tiro della via l’Anno del ragno, con la quale condivide l’ultimo tiro. Attrezzatura da verificare.

1. overcome the overhang above the belay, then continue on simpler rocks in a slight oblique to the right up to the belay (glue in bolts x2 and ring). (25m, IV, 1 piton, 1 bolt)

2. Diagonal to the right in the direction of a black corner that you follow for a few meters. Traverse the slab to the left, bypassing a yellow overhang and climb up to the comfortable belay at the base of the overhanging yellow wall (glue in bolts x2 and ring OR old belay on 3 pitons). (25m, IV+)

3. Climb the dihedral above the belay until below the overhang; traverse for about 2 meters to the right and pass it. Above this, follow some easier blocks to the anchor (glue-in bolts x2 + ring). (30m, V+/IV A0, 12 pitons, some dodgy).

4. Climb the slab (unprotected) aiming for the obvious left slanting chimney at the end, which goes to the belay (2 bolts + chain). (35m, V+, 8 pitons, 1 intermediate anchor)

#standstart