Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Climber | Date | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
5+ |
Champignon Merveilleux P1
1
5+
| 110m, 2 | Val Porcellizzo | Mon 21st Aug 2023 | |||||
5+/6- | ★★★ Via Mauri | 400m | Val Porcellizzo | Tue 22nd Aug 2023 | |||||
6a+ | ★★★ Fessura Della S | 20m | Sasso Remenno | ★★★ Classic | Thu 4th Sep 2008 | ||||
7 | ★★★ Oceano Irrazionale | 400m | Val di Mello | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 10th Sep 2007 | ||||
6b | ★★★ Luna Nascente | 340m | Val di Mello | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 27th Apr 2007 | ||||
6b | ★★★ Luna Nascente | 340m | Val di Mello | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 7th Sep 2007 | ||||
6a+ | ★★★ Il risveglio di Kundalini | 390m | Val di Mello | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 9th Sep 2007 | ||||
6a | ★★★ Self control | 200m, 5 | Val di Mello | ★★★ Classic | Wed 5th Sep 2007 | ||||
7- | ★★★ Mattino Dopo | 370m | Val del Ferro | ★★★ Classic | Sat 28th Apr 2007 | ||||
7- | ★★★ Mattino Dopo | 370m | Val del Ferro | ★★★ Classic | Sat 9th Jun 2007 | ||||
6a |
★★ King Kong P1
- with
LL
1
6a
25m
| 25m | Sasso Remenno | ★★ Very Good | Tue 10th Oct 2023 | ||||
6b+ | ★★ Via Del Bosca | 25m | Sasso Remenno | ★★ Very Good | Tue 10th Oct 2023 | ||||
6b+ | ★★ 1997, Fuga da san Martino - with LL | 20m | Sasso Remenno | ★★ Very Good | Tue 10th Oct 2023 | ||||
7a | ★★★ Fitzcarraldo | 12m | Sasso Remenno | ★★ Very Good | Tue 10th Oct 2023 | ||||
6c | ★★★ Spigolo Fumasoni - with LL | 12m | Sasso Remenno | Tue 10th Oct 2023 | |||||
7a+ | ★★ Spanna - with LL | 12m | Sasso Remenno | Tue 10th Oct 2023 | |||||
6a - b ~6b | Scimmiagallina - with LL | 31m, 6 | Val di Mello | Sun 8th Oct 2023 | |||||
5a |
★★ Stomaco Peloso
- with
LL
1
5a
50m
2
4a
20m
| 70m | Val di Mello | ★★ Very Good | Sun 8th Oct 2023 | ||||
5c |
★★ L'alba del Nirvana
- with
LL
1
5c
45m
2
5b
30m
3
5a
20m
4
4c
30m
| 130m | Val di Mello | ★★ Very Good | Sun 8th Oct 2023 | ||||
6a+ ~6a |
★★★ Il risveglio di Kundalini
- with
LL
1
5a
45m
2
6a+
40m
3
5b
40m
4
5b
25m
5
5b
40m
6
5c
40m
7
4a
45m
8
5a
45m
9
5c
40m
10
5a
25m
| 390m | Val di Mello | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 9th Oct 2023 | ||||
6b | ★★★ Borotalco - with LL | 26m | Val di Mello | ★★★ Classic | Mon 9th Oct 2023 | ||||
6b | ★★★ La Crepa Del Bamba - with LL | 30m | Val di Mello | ★★★ Classic | Mon 9th Oct 2023 | ||||
6b+ | ★★ Diedro Dei Furodendri - with LL | 20m | Sasso Remenno | ★★ Very Good | Tue 10th Oct 2023 | ||||
6b |
★★★ Luna Nascente
- with
LL
1
6b
20m
2
6a
25m
3
5b
30m
4
5c+
40m
5
5c
40m
lead by
LL
6
5b
40m
7
5b
50m
lead by
LL
8
3a
35m
9
5a
60m
| 340m | Val di Mello | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 11th Oct 2023 | ||||
6b |
★★ Il Lamone e le sue Placce
- with
LL
1
6a+
25
2
6b
30
3
6a
35
4
5b
50
lead by
LL
5
4b
45
6
5b+
50
7
4c
15
lead by
LL
| 250m, 16 | Val di Mello | ★★★ Classic | Thu 12th Oct 2023 | ||||
7a+ ~6c | ★★★ Budino Buono - with LL | 20m | Val di Mello | ★★★ Classic | Thu 12th Oct 2023 | ||||
6a+ | ★★★ La petite folie - with LL | 25m | Val di Mello | ★★★ Classic | Thu 12th Oct 2023 | ||||
6b+ | ★★ Col Permesso della Mamma | 15m | Val di Mello | ★★ Very Good | Thu 12th Oct 2023 | ||||
6c Hard |
★★ Piedri Di Piombo
- with
LL
1
6c
40
2
6b
25
3
6b
30
| 95m | Val di Mello | ★★★ Classic | Fri 13th Oct 2023 | ||||
I finally got meaning of "foot on fire". Really hard slabs in SL2 and SL3. We had only limited time so we bailed after SL3. I think I will NOT come back for the rest
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4c 5a | ★★ no name | Sasso Remenno | ★★ Very Good | Mon 16th Sep 2019 | |||||
4c 5a | ★★ no name | Sasso Remenno | ★★ Very Good | Mon 16th Sep 2019 | |||||
4c 5a | ★★ no name | Sasso Remenno | ★★ Very Good | Mon 16th Sep 2019 | |||||
5a 5b | ★★ no name | Sasso Remenno | ★★ Very Good | Mon 16th Sep 2019 | |||||
5c | ★★ no name | Sasso Remenno | ★★ Very Good | Mon 16th Sep 2019 | |||||
5b | ★★ Traslazioni parallele | 15m | Sasso Remenno | ★★ Very Good | Mon 16th Sep 2019 | ||||
5b | ★★ Cera L'h | 15m | Sasso Remenno | ★★ Very Good | Mon 16th Sep 2019 | ||||
5a | L'aquila | Sasso del drago | Average | Thu 10th Oct 2019 | |||||
4c | Babi | 17m | Sasso del drago | ★ Good | Thu 10th Oct 2019 | ||||
6b+ | ★★ Via Del Bosca - with Sebastian Nagel | 25m | Sasso Remenno | Thu 8th Jun 2023 | |||||
6a+ | ★★ Simon Templar - with Sebastian Nagel | 45m | Sasso Remenno | Thu 8th Jun 2023 | |||||
6a |
★★★ Via delle due Gobbe P1
- with
Sebastian Nagel
1
6a
25m
| 25m | Sasso Remenno | Thu 8th Jun 2023 | |||||
6a | ★★ King Kong - with Sebastian Nagel | 45m | Sasso Remenno | Thu 8th Jun 2023 | |||||
5c | ★★ Via del Cavolo - with Sebastian Nagel | 20m | Sasso Remenno | Thu 8th Jun 2023 | |||||
6a | ★★ King Kong | 45m | Sasso Remenno | ★ Good | Sat 1st Jun 2024 | ||||
5b | ★★ Senza Nome 2 | 20m | Sasso Remenno | ★ Good | Sat 1st Jun 2024 | ||||
4a | ★★ Via Del Buco - with Sebastian Nagel | Sasso Remenno | ★ Good | Sat 1st Jun 2024 | |||||
3b - 4c | ★ Via Della Lama - with Sebastian Nagel | Sasso Remenno | ★ Good | Sat 1st Jun 2024 | |||||
6b | Consigliere | 12m | Arrampicodromo Di Mese | Average | Tue 19th Sep 2023 | ||||
Easy, then I think you are meant to use the arete, Ndseam but there’s an easier crack to the right so who knows?
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5c | ★ Sindaco | 25m | Arrampicodromo Di Mese | ★ Good | Tue 19th Sep 2023 | ||||
Back to granite slabbing. Ok, a little wet at the top only
|
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6c | Nuevo C | 25m | Arrampicodromo Di Mese | Tue 19th Sep 2023 | |||||
Well I top roped through the crux with a high first clip, though took a couple of goes. Feels a bit contrived away from some slightly better holds.
|
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6a+ | ★ Assessore | 25m | Arrampicodromo Di Mese | ★ Good | Tue 19th Sep 2023 | ||||
Probably my favourite. A couple of tricky spots.
|
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6b | ★ Fipanza | 10m | Vho | ★ Good | Wed 20th Sep 2023 | ||||
Took Dave and I about 4 goes each to do this, both different..6 b feels like a font grade, it was very bouldery. Climbing on road infrastructure, but it was dry
|
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6b+ | ★★ Cappuccino | 30m | Vho | ★ Good | Wed 20th Sep 2023 | ||||
On of the drier routes today ( first pitch) , and unlike the 10m boulder climb, Fipanza we found this one pretty easy
|
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6b | ★ Nik | 20m | Vho | ★ Good | Wed 20th Sep 2023 | ||||
Missed transition from overhung to slab first go. Capped by large roof so dry, but only one bolt with captive ring for an anchor.
|
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6a ~6a+ | ★ Madame Babette | 20m | Vho | ★ Good | Wed 20th Sep 2023 | ||||
Too run out for me chickened out 2 bolts from top.Had to bring in the reinforcement. The slab dyno also seems a bit hard for 6a but may be a height thing. Large wet patch that did require some foot holds in.
|
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6a | ★ Poldo | 10m | Cranna | ★ Good | Sat 23rd Sep 2023 | ||||
Tricky finish if you are short, but good
|
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6a | ★★★ Pergola | 10m | Cranna | ★★ Very Good | Sat 23rd Sep 2023 | ||||
Nice route, anchors at full stretch though.
|
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6b+ |
★★ Passaggio Chiave P1
1
6b+
20
Nice climbing. We came to the crag because its rain sheltered, but it was a Saturday and half of chiavenna seemed to join us, then the sun came out and the temps went up 10 degrees. It was time to leave. | 20m | Cranna | ★★ Very Good | Sat 23rd Sep 2023 | ||||
6a | ★★ La Capanna del Blondi | 12m | Acquafraggia | ★ Good | Tue 26th Sep 2023 | ||||
A v1 mantle start then spaced bolts, generally ok to get to except the one that protects the crux
|
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6b | ★★ Pomi — 2 attempts | Acquafraggia | ★★ Very Good | Tue 26th Sep 2023 | |||||
Would have been nicer in the shade, super slippery, quite technical
|
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7a | ★★ Rufus | Acquafraggia | Tue 26th Sep 2023 | ||||||
Hadnt learnt my lesson about the sun and baked. Nice from flake up but no idea how to establish. Would make a nice grade 25 project at home.
|
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6b ~6b |
★★★ Vector (il diedro) P1
- with
Hannes Zelenka
1
6b
| 30m | Sasso del drago | ★★★ Classic | Thu 14th Sep 2023 | ||||
6a | ★★ Draghetto - with Hannes Zelenka | 10m | Sasso del drago | ★★ Very Good | Thu 14th Sep 2023 | ||||
6a | ★★ Gustavo - with Hannes Zelenka | 20m | Sasso del drago | ★★ Very Good | Thu 14th Sep 2023 | ||||
6a 5c | Dede | 25m | Vho | Average | Mon 17th Apr 2006 | ||||
6a | ★★ Via vai | 25m | Vho | ★ Good | Mon 17th Apr 2006 | ||||
6a+ | ★★ Diedrone - with Hanna Kallweit | Sirta | ★★ Very Good | Sun 13th Sep 2020 | |||||
Awesome dihedral, good bolts, great jams and long route.
|
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6b+ | ★★ Pancia a sorpresa - with Hanna Kallweit | Sirta | ★★ Very Good | Sun 13th Sep 2020 | |||||
Nice face climb with a pumpy crimpy crux.
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6b+ | ★★ Fessura sinuosa - with Hanna Kallweit | Sirta | ★★ Very Good | Wed 16th Sep 2020 | |||||
A bit crispy, but great line when all the crisp fell off.
|
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7 | ★★★ Luna Nascente - with Emil | 340m | Val di Mello | ★★★ Classic | Wed 28th Aug 2019 | ||||
Beautiful mix of cracks, flakes and smearing on slabs. Rappeled after p7 because of a approaching thunderstorm.
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7- | ★★★ Il risveglio di Kundalini - with Emil | 400m | Val di Mello | ★★★ Classic | Fri 16th Aug 2019 | ||||
Grandiose alpine climbing with wild lines that crisscross the wall. Not always possible to place gear in the easier slabby sections.
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7 | ★★★ Oceano Irrazionale - with Emil | 400m | Val di Mello | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 26th Aug 2019 | ||||
Absolute fantastic and classic line. P4 (6a) is really hard for the grade, not always easy to protect and physically as well as mentally demanding.
The real crux pitch imho is p5, the long traverse, where you have to put your leg into the horizontal crack traversing to the right. Superb and fun climbing, especially if you can shuffle a BD #4 (and maybe #5). P6 (7) is pretty easy. Short overhanging crack, easily protectable and actually only one hard move. A must do if you are in val di mello. While rappeling via the super hard slab climb (french 8?) a thunderstorm hit us and we continued rappeling in a huge waterfall. The slabby headwall collects all the waters and spits it out onto the lower part of the wall. Not recommended |
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5+ 5c | ★★ L'alba del Nirvana (Alba del Nirvana) - with Emil | 130m | Val di Mello | ★★ Very Good | Fri 16th Aug 2019 | ||||
Stomaco Peloso + L´Alba del Nirvana (2L) 5a+, 60m (4L) 5c, 135m
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5c | ★★ Spigolo della Paletta upper part - with katl | 120m | Gallivaggio | Sun 10th Sep 2023 | |||||
5b | ★★ Spigolo della Paletta - with katl | 130m | Gallivaggio | Sun 10th Sep 2023 | |||||
6a | ★★ via Erica - with katl | 120m | Gallivaggio | Mon 11th Sep 2023 | |||||
5b | ★★ Spigolo della Paletta | 130m | Gallivaggio | ★★ Very Good | Mon 18th Oct 2021 | ||||
5c | ★★ Spigolo della Paletta upper part | 120m | Gallivaggio | Mon 18th Oct 2021 | |||||
6a | ★★ The Hunter | 50m | Gallivaggio | ★★ Very Good | Mon 18th Oct 2021 | ||||
6a Easy | ★★ Via delle Cipolline | 20m | Sasso Remenno | ★★ Very Good | Thu 24th Aug 2023 | ||||
6a+ | ★★★ Via del Roby | 20m | Sasso Remenno | Thu 24th Aug 2023 | |||||
6b | Miotti - Mottarella | 20m | Sasso Remenno | Thu 24th Aug 2023 | |||||
6b+ | ★★ Via Del Bosca | 25m | Sasso Remenno | ★★★ Classic | Thu 24th Aug 2023 | ||||
6B | ★★★ B | Val di Mello | ★★★ Classic | Wed 23rd Aug 2023 | |||||
6A | ★★ C | Val di Mello | Wed 23rd Aug 2023 | ||||||
6A Hard | ★★ E | Val di Mello | Wed 23rd Aug 2023 | ||||||
5c+ | ★★ Guronsan | 400m, 20 | Val di Zocca | ★★ Very Good | Thu 14th Jul 2022 | ||||
5c+ ~6a+ | ★★ Carmageddon | 270m, 20 | Val Porcellizzo | ★★ Very Good | Sat 29th Jul 2023 | ||||
Die Schlusselstelle in die 5. SL ist kurz, gut abgesichert, aber schwer und unbequem. Meiner Meinung am mindesten 6a+. Genugend Friends mitnehmen, wir hatten 0.3-3 mit 0.5-2 gedoppelt.
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6a | ★★ Edera | 10m | Cranna | ★★ Very Good | Tue 7th Jun 2022 | ||||
6a | ★ Poldo | 10m | Cranna | Tue 7th Jun 2022 | |||||
6a | ★★★ Pergola | 10m | Cranna | Tue 7th Jun 2022 | |||||
6b | ★ Scurzon | 15m | Sasso del drago | Tue 25th Apr 2023 | |||||
6a | ★ W la mamma | 15m | Sasso del drago | Tue 25th Apr 2023 | |||||
6b |
★★★ Vector (il diedro) P1
1
6b
| 30m | Sasso del drago | Thu 27th Apr 2023 | |||||
5b 5c+ | ★ Mary Poppins - with Klára Schmidtová | 100m | Val Porcellizzo | ★ Good | Wed 7th Jul 2021 | ||||
6- |
Champignon Merveilleux
- with
Klára Schmidtová
1
5+
35m
2
6-
20m
3
5+
25m
4
5+
30m
| 110m, 2 | Val Porcellizzo | Fri 9th Jul 2021 | |||||
retreated from key spot in second pitch – unprotectable slab with large runout
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5c+ |
★★ Carmageddon
- with
Klára Schmidtová
1
5c+
40m
2
3b
30m
3
4b
40m
4
3b
40m
5
5c+
40m
6
5c+
40m
7
5b
40m
| 270m, 20 | Val Porcellizzo | ★★ Very Good | Fri 9th Jul 2021 | ||||
Return from fifth pitch - no moral to continue through unprotected (but beautiful) crack. We returned to the top of the fourth pitch, continued 100m more in the right and climbed to the ridge of the Vecchia by some other (route (two pitches through slabs and short chimney, about 5b or 5c)
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6- 5+/6- | ★★★ Via Mauri - with Klára Schmidtová | 400m | Val Porcellizzo | ★★★ Classic | Sat 10th Jul 2021 | ||||
5c+ | ★★ Guronsan - with Klára Schmidtová | 400m, 20 | Val di Zocca | Mon 12th Jul 2021 | |||||
Retreated after first pitch (too large runouts in the slab for our fragile moral)
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6 | Meloni-Maspes crack - with Klára Schmidtová | 300m | Val di Zocca | Mon 12th Jul 2021 | |||||
retreated after first pitch (falling ice and stones)
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