Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Climber | Date | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Unknown | |||||||||
6a+ | ★ Simon Templar | 30m | Sasso Remenno | Average | Sun 19th Oct 2003 | ||||
Very delicated
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6a+ | ★ Simon Templar | 30m | Sasso Remenno | ★ Good | Sat 3rd Jul 2004 | ||||
my first onsight 6a+!
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5c | Merenda al Circul - with Carmen | 30m | Uschione | Don't Bother | Sat 29th Apr 2023 | ||||
Moos
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5c | ★ Enjoy Scheppes | 30m | Uschione | ★ Good | Sun 7th May 2023 | ||||
5b | ★ Ping Pong | 30m | Uschione | ★ Good | Sun 7th May 2023 | ||||
5a | Placebo | 20m | Uschione | Average | Sun 7th May 2023 | ||||
5c | Ci Sta | 20m | Uschione | Sun 7th May 2023 | |||||
5c | ★ Non ci Sta | 20m | Uschione | ★ Good | Sun 7th May 2023 | ||||
5c | ★ Vero Caiano Monturato | 30m | Uschione | ★ Good | Sun 7th May 2023 | ||||
Trad | |||||||||
5c+ |
★★ Carmageddon
- with
Klára Schmidtová
1
5c+
40m
2
3b
30m
3
4b
40m
4
3b
40m
5
5c+
40m
6
5c+
40m
7
5b
40m
| 270m, 20 | Val Porcellizzo | ★★ Very Good | Fri 9th Jul 2021 | ||||
Return from fifth pitch - no moral to continue through unprotected (but beautiful) crack. We returned to the top of the fourth pitch, continued 100m more in the right and climbed to the ridge of the Vecchia by some other (route (two pitches through slabs and short chimney, about 5b or 5c)
|
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5c+ | ★★ Guronsan - with Klára Schmidtová | 400m, 20 | Val di Zocca | Mon 12th Jul 2021 | |||||
Retreated after first pitch (too large runouts in the slab for our fragile moral)
|
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5c+ | ★★ Guronsan | 400m, 20 | Val di Zocca | ★★ Very Good | Thu 14th Jul 2022 | ||||
5c+ ~6a+ | ★★ Carmageddon | 270m, 20 | Val Porcellizzo | ★★ Very Good | Sat 29th Jul 2023 | ||||
Die Schlusselstelle in die 5. SL ist kurz, gut abgesichert, aber schwer und unbequem. Meiner Meinung am mindesten 6a+. Genugend Friends mitnehmen, wir hatten 0.3-3 mit 0.5-2 gedoppelt.
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5c+ | ★★ Guronsan | 400m, 20 | Val di Zocca | Fri 28th Jul 2023 | |||||
6b | ★★ Il Lamone e le sue Placce - with Tim, Fleck | 250m, 16 | Val di Mello | ★★ Very Good | Mon 6th Jul 2020 | ||||
wie kommt man von der Spitze wieder an die Wand? untergriff? oder Griff ins Dornengestrüpp?
|
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6b |
★★ Il Lamone e le sue Placce
1
6a+
25m
2
6b
30m
3
6a
35m
4
5b
50m
5
4b
45m
| 190m, 16 | Val di Mello | ★ Good | Fri 9th Sep 2022 | ||||
6b | ★★ Il Lamone e le sue Placce | 250m, 16 | Val di Mello | Mon 31st Jul 2023 | |||||
6b |
★★ Il Lamone e le sue Placce
- with
LL
1
6a+
25
2
6b
30
3
6a
35
4
5b
50
lead by
LL
5
4b
45
6
5b+
50
7
4c
15
lead by
LL
| 250m, 16 | Val di Mello | ★★★ Classic | Thu 12th Oct 2023 | ||||
6a | ★★★ Milchzahn | 230m, 10 | Val Porcellizzo | ★★★ Classic | Tue 5th Jul 2016 | ||||
5c | ★ Magic Lina | 75m, 6 | Val di Mello | ★ Good | Fri 22nd Jun 2018 | ||||
5c | ★ Magic Lina | 75m, 6 | Val di Mello | Wed 26th Sep 2018 | |||||
6 |
★ Palle Quadre
- with
klára Schmidtová
1
6
20m
2
5
25m
3
4+
25m
| 70m, 5 | Val di Mello | ★ Good | Tue 13th Jul 2021 | ||||
retreated after two pitches (thunderstorm)
|
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6a | ★★★ Self control | 200m, 5 | Val di Mello | ★★★ Classic | Wed 5th Sep 2007 | ||||
6- |
Champignon Merveilleux
- with
Klára Schmidtová
1
5+
35m
2
6-
20m
3
5+
25m
4
5+
30m
| 110m, 2 | Val Porcellizzo | Fri 9th Jul 2021 | |||||
retreated from key spot in second pitch – unprotectable slab with large runout
|
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5+ |
Champignon Merveilleux P1
1
5+
| 110m, 2 | Val Porcellizzo | Mon 21st Aug 2023 | |||||
6b | ★★★ Borotalco - with LL | 26m | Val di Mello | ★★★ Classic | Mon 9th Oct 2023 | ||||
★★★ Luna Nascente | 340m | Val di Mello | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 1st Jul 2003 | |||||
awesome
|
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★★★ Il risveglio di Kundalini | 390m | Val di Mello | ★ Good | Tue 1st Jul 2003 | |||||
7 | ★★ Cochise | Val di Mello | Tue 1st Jul 2003 | ||||||
7 | ★★ Cochise | Val di Mello | Sat 22nd Sep 2012 | ||||||
7 6b | ★★★ Luna Nascente | 340m | Val di Mello | ★★★ Classic | Wed 15th Apr 2009 | ||||
9Sl, 6a,6b,5c,6a,5c,5c,5a,4a,5b, mit Mirko
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7- 6a+ | ★★★ Il risveglio di Kundalini (Kundalini) | 390m | Val di Mello | ★★ Very Good | Tue 14th Apr 2009 | ||||
10Sl, 5c,6a+,5c,5c,5c,4a,4c,5c,5b, mit Mirko
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5+ 5c | ★★ L'alba del Nirvana (Alba del Nirvana) | 130m | Val di Mello | ★★★ Classic | Sat 19th Oct 2013 | ||||
6b | ★★★ Luna Nascente | 340m | Val di Mello | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 24th Sep 2014 | ||||
6a+ | ★★★ Il risveglio di Kundalini | 390m | Val di Mello | ★★★ Classic | Wed 24th Sep 2014 | ||||
5+ 5c | ★★ L'alba del Nirvana (Alba del Nirvana) | 130m | Val di Mello | ★ Good | Wed 24th Sep 2014 | ||||
6b | ★★★ Luna Nascente | 340m | Val di Mello | Sun 2nd Jul 2017 | |||||
6a+ | ★★★ Il risveglio di Kundalini | 390m | Val di Mello | Sun 2nd Jul 2017 | |||||
5+ | ★★ Cunicolo Acuto | 80m | Val di Mello | ★ Good | Mon 13th Apr 2009 | ||||
3Sl 3x5a, mit Mirko
|
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5+ | ★★ L'alba del Nirvana - with Heiko Strathmann, Lea Goetz | 130m | Val di Mello | Wed 16th May 2018 | |||||
6a+ | ★★★ Il risveglio di Kundalini | 390m | Val di Mello | ★★★ Classic | Wed 4th Sep 2019 | ||||
Total Classic. Unfortunately a lot of fixed gear (stuck cams). Pitons at most belays, 2nd belay needs a number 3 Camelot. Two sets cams up to no. 1, with one no.2 and no.3 (an extra no.3 or no.4 helpful for pitch 3 and 4). Small set nuts.
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5+ | ★★ Cunicolo Acuto | 80m | Val di Mello | ★ Good | Sat 8th Jun 2019 | ||||
6b | ★★★ Luna Nascente | 340m | Val di Mello | Thu 10th Oct 2019 | |||||
6a+ | ★★★ Il risveglio di Kundalini - with Tim, Fleck | 390m | Val di Mello | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 7th Jul 2020 | ||||
Top Tour!
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6b | ★★★ Luna Nascente | 340m | Val di Mello | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 9th Jul 2020 | ||||
6a+ | ★★★ Il risveglio di Kundalini | 390m | Val di Mello | Thu 6th Aug 2020 | |||||
6b | ★★★ Luna Nascente | 340m | Val di Mello | Thu 6th Aug 2020 | |||||
6b 7 | ★★★ Oceano Irrazionale | 400m | Val di Mello | Thu 6th Aug 2020 | |||||
6a+ | ★★★ Il risveglio di Kundalini - with Miriam | 390m | Val di Mello | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 21st Sep 2020 | ||||
Via pooower
|
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6a+ | ★★★ Il risveglio di Kundalini | 390m | Val di Mello | ★★ Very Good | Wed 9th Sep 2020 | ||||
6b | ★★★ Luna Nascente | 340m | Val di Mello | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 10th Sep 2020 | ||||
6a+ | ★★★ Il risveglio di Kundalini | 390m | Val di Mello | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 13th Aug 2011 | ||||
Trad 400m
|
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6b | ★★★ Luna Nascente | 340m | Val di Mello | ★★★ Classic | Sun 2nd Jul 2000 | ||||
6a+ | ★★★ Il risveglio di Kundalini | 390m | Val di Mello | ★★★ Classic | Sat 12th Aug 2000 | ||||
5b | ★★ Tunnel Diagonale | 160m | Val di Mello | ★★★ Classic | Sun 13th Aug 2000 | ||||
5+ | ★★ Cunicolo Acuto | 80m | Val di Mello | ★★★ Classic | Sun 13th Aug 2000 | ||||
5+ 5c | ★★ L'alba del Nirvana (Alba del Nirvana) | 130m | Val di Mello | ★★★ Classic | Mon 25th Jul 2016 | ||||
5b | ★★ Tunnel Diagonale | 160m | Val di Mello | ★★★ Classic | Sun 25th Sep 2016 | ||||
5+ | ★★ Cunicolo Acuto | 80m | Val di Mello | ★★★ Classic | Sun 25th Sep 2016 | ||||
8b | Joy Division - with Nico Nastorg | 800m | Val di Mello | Thu 13th Oct 2011 | |||||
2nd ascent
|
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8b | Joy Division - with Jacopo Larcher | 800m | Val di Mello | Jun 2021 | |||||
8b | Joy Division - with Barbara Zangerl | 800m | Val di Mello | Jun 2021 | |||||
6b | ★★★ Luna Nascente - with simon | 340m | Val di Mello | Tue 12th Oct 2021 | |||||
6- 5+/6- | ★★★ Via Mauri - with Klára Schmidtová | 400m | Val Porcellizzo | ★★★ Classic | Sat 10th Jul 2021 | ||||
6 | Meloni-Maspes crack - with Klára Schmidtová | 300m | Val di Zocca | Mon 12th Jul 2021 | |||||
retreated after first pitch (falling ice and stones)
|
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5b | ★★ Tunnel Diagonale | 160m | Val di Mello | ★★ Very Good | Sat 23rd Jun 2018 | ||||
5+ | ★★ Cunicolo Acuto | 80m | Val di Mello | ★★ Very Good | Fri 22nd Jun 2018 | ||||
6a+ | ★★★ Fessura Della S | 20m | Sasso Remenno | ★★★ Classic | Thu 4th Sep 2008 | ||||
7 | ★★★ Oceano Irrazionale | 400m | Val di Mello | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 10th Sep 2007 | ||||
6b | ★★★ Luna Nascente | 340m | Val di Mello | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 27th Apr 2007 | ||||
6b | ★★★ Luna Nascente | 340m | Val di Mello | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 7th Sep 2007 | ||||
6a+ | ★★★ Il risveglio di Kundalini | 390m | Val di Mello | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 9th Sep 2007 | ||||
7- | ★★★ Mattino Dopo | 370m | Val del Ferro | ★★★ Classic | Sat 28th Apr 2007 | ||||
7- | ★★★ Mattino Dopo | 370m | Val del Ferro | ★★★ Classic | Sat 9th Jun 2007 | ||||
7 | ★★ Cochise | Val di Mello | ★★ Very Good | Fri 28th Jun 2019 | |||||
6b | ★★★ Luna Nascente | 340m | Val di Mello | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 28th Jun 2022 | ||||
6- 5+ | ★★ Cunicolo Acuto | 80m | Val di Mello | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 25th Jul 2022 | ||||
5a (V+)first pitch one piton
5b (VI-)second pitch 3 pitons + 1 rope
5a (V+) third pitch
Grades according to the guidebook, maybe sandbaged and if you are not familiar with granite trad climbing they can feel harder. Second pitch is a narrow chimney but you can bail if you don't fit. Needs friends medium and big till 5 and exentricks but has some runouts. Very beautiful though, good introduction.
|
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7 | ★★★ Luna Nascente - with Emil | 340m | Val di Mello | ★★★ Classic | Wed 28th Aug 2019 | ||||
Beautiful mix of cracks, flakes and smearing on slabs. Rappeled after p7 because of a approaching thunderstorm.
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7- | ★★★ Il risveglio di Kundalini - with Emil | 400m | Val di Mello | ★★★ Classic | Fri 16th Aug 2019 | ||||
Grandiose alpine climbing with wild lines that crisscross the wall. Not always possible to place gear in the easier slabby sections.
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7 | ★★★ Oceano Irrazionale - with Emil | 400m | Val di Mello | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 26th Aug 2019 | ||||
Absolute fantastic and classic line. P4 (6a) is really hard for the grade, not always easy to protect and physically as well as mentally demanding.
The real crux pitch imho is p5, the long traverse, where you have to put your leg into the horizontal crack traversing to the right. Superb and fun climbing, especially if you can shuffle a BD #4 (and maybe #5). P6 (7) is pretty easy. Short overhanging crack, easily protectable and actually only one hard move. A must do if you are in val di mello. While rappeling via the super hard slab climb (french 8?) a thunderstorm hit us and we continued rappeling in a huge waterfall. The slabby headwall collects all the waters and spits it out onto the lower part of the wall. Not recommended |
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5+ 5c | ★★ L'alba del Nirvana (Alba del Nirvana) - with Emil | 130m | Val di Mello | ★★ Very Good | Fri 16th Aug 2019 | ||||
Stomaco Peloso + L´Alba del Nirvana (2L) 5a+, 60m (4L) 5c, 135m
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5+ 5c | ★★ L'alba del Nirvana (Alba del Nirvana) | 130m | Val di Mello | ★★ Very Good | Sun 21st Aug 2022 | ||||
Slab climb is like relearning how to climb again! So much fun, spectacular climb+
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5+ | ★★ Cunicolo Acuto | 80m | Val di Mello | ★★★ Classic | Mon 22nd Aug 2022 | ||||
Magnificent multi, pitch 2 for the chimeny and the crack on putch 3. So much fun although we initially struggle to find the crag.
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6a | ★★★ Fessura Del Budino | 15m | Sasso Remenno | ★★★ Classic | Wed 24th Aug 2022 | ||||
Well well my crack climbing technique needs loads of improvement although it was challenging i have enjoyed it. Need to come back to do it clean!
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6a+ | ★★★ Il risveglio di Kundalini - with Gönczöl Zsolt | 390m | Val di Mello | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 31st Jul 2022 | ||||
Mega classic! Wide variety of climbing styles, crack, slab, piaz, chimney, bouldery moves in the crux. The real crux pich is maybe the one under the big roof, it is long and tricky 5c. The 6a+ is just a few moves.
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6a+ | ★★★ Il risveglio di Kundalini | 390m | Val di Mello | Sat 21st Oct 2017 | |||||
6b | ★★★ Luna Nascente | 340m | Val di Mello | Tue 15th Oct 2019 | |||||
7 | ★★★ Oceano Irrazionale | 400m | Val di Mello | Thu 20th May 2021 | |||||
6b | ★★★ Luna Nascente | 340m | Val di Mello | Thu 20th May 2021 | |||||
6a+ | ★★★ Il risveglio di Kundalini | 390m | Val di Mello | Thu 20th May 2021 | |||||
5b | ★★ Tunnel Diagonale | 160m | Val di Mello | ★★ Very Good | Sun 21st May 2023 | ||||
7 | ★★★ Oceano Irrazionale | 400m | Val di Mello | Sat 8th Jul 2023 | |||||
5c | ★★ L'alba del Nirvana | 130m | Val di Mello | ★★ Very Good | Sun 16th Jul 2023 | ||||
6a+ | ★★★ Il risveglio di Kundalini - with Andreas Kölbener | 390m | Val di Mello | ★★★ Classic | Fri 28th Jul 2023 | ||||
6a+ | ★★★ Fessura Della S - with Sofia Rennerståhl | 20m | Sasso Remenno | ★★★ Classic | Sun 30th Jul 2023 | ||||
6a+ | ★★★ Fessura Della S | 20m | Sasso Remenno | ★★★ Classic | Sun 30th Jul 2023 | ||||
Very fun route on trad gear. Haven’t learned how to crack climb, but enjoyed it lean back style. Got tired at the last bolt though, should have searched for better feet 🙃
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5b | ★★ Tunnel Diagonale | 160m | Val di Mello | Sun 30th Jul 2023 | |||||
6b | ★★★ Luna Nascente - with Andreas Kölbener | 340m | Val di Mello | ★★ Very Good | Fri 28th Jul 2023 | ||||
5c ~6+ | ★★ L'alba del Nirvana | 130m | Val di Mello | Sat 5th Aug 2023 | |||||
5c Hard | ★★ L'alba del Nirvana | 130m | Val di Mello | ★★★ Classic | Mon 7th Aug 2023 |