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Routes in Valtellina for selected grade

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Showing all 4 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
3b - 6a
Val Bodengo Placche di Mese
3b - 6a Bambino Svezzato
Sport 130m
4c - 5c
Valle Spluga Placche di Bette
4c - 5c Navajos Sport 90m
{UIAA} 5+/6-
Val Porcellizzo Punta Torelli
{UIAA} 5+/6- Via Mauri

Some pitons in the route, anchors fixed or to be strenghten. Classical itinerary, frequently repeated. Return by the foot through the southwestern ridge of Punta Torelli to Porcellizzo pass.

FA: G. Ferrari, G. Fiorelli & C. Mauri, 1955

Trad 400m, 13
{UIAA} 5+
Val di Mello Il Sarcofago
{UIAA} 5+ Cunicolo Acuto
1 5 30m
2 5+ 25m
3 5 25m

The first route opened in Val di Mello according to the Val di Mello guidebook published by Versante Sud (2004 edition).

The route is located a few meters to the left a river/waterfall descending from the mountains and it starts on the right side of a cave on a dihedral leading up to another cave.

  1. 30m (5) Dihedral on the right side until you reach a terrace at the beginning of a cave or chimney like structure.

  2. 25m (5+) A 2m vertical face towards the chimney (one piton), through the chimney. Belay on a tree after the chimney.

  3. 25m (5) Follow the vertical cracks to the top.

Descend on foot to the left following a clear trail.

Trad 80m, 3

Showing all 4 routes.

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