Routes in Sardinia

Lower Entrance: N 40° 34.213 E 8° 09.475 (recommended) Upper Entrance (or exit): N 40° 34.168 E 8° 09.472

Deinstalliert

Gàlaba,Project

S3 A3 390m 4:30h 3/60

to Turbamento

Multipitch

Topo

V/R2/I

Topo

Topo

Pitches: V+,VI,IV+,IV,V

Short flake. Belay from a cactus (tree). Way down is via the normal route (first around the block at the top to the other side).

A route with quite a lot of loose rock and vegetation. Probably not worth repeating.

Approach: start from the parking for the place for the Bruncu Nieddu routes (as indicated in the map) and follow the path towards the wall. Pass all the routes of Brunco Nieddu, going in the north-east direction (1 hour). Search for two stand-alone rock formations, one of them reminiscent of a gravestone. Go towards the wall using the rubble behind them. Route starts at the highest point of the saddle behind those rock formations.

Pitch 1: directly up for 30 m, with some tricky compression climbing on loose rock (VI+).

Picht 2: Walking/II+ for 60 m along the ridge top.

Pitch 3: An arc to the left, then to the right around the overhang (20 m, IV) followed by a very unpleasant climb in the vegetation (20 m, VI). Be careful not to set any loose stones in motion!

Pitch 4: Climb to the left (10 m, V) to enter a chimney with loose rock (30 m, VI+). There is a huge stone block similar to a guillotine blade in the chimney. Do not touch it!

Pitch 5: Climb a shorter chimney (5 m, V) followed by an easy plate (III) followed by a tricky crack climbing towards a standalone bush (VI+). After reaching the bush, go right towards the rubble ramp which extends to the left.

Pitch 6: Follow the ramp without belay for 100 m (II) to reach it highest point

Pitches 7-10: go straight up towards the top (IV-V, can be done in 3 pitches).

Descent: follow the path to the north-east to go around the mountain ridge and gain the approach path (2 hours). Alternatively, if someone can relocate your car, go towards the parking spot near the Ovile Bissedu (as indicated in the map).

Topo

friends up to #5 useful, rappell along Pochaontas