Ascents in Aichi Ken

nice but soo sharp

Not worth the trouble. Best to stay on the ground or go up Anko. Originaly graded 5.10c, but should be down graded to 5.10b

Classic moves and sustained all the way to the chains

Really fun route that requires some confidence to do lead as there is potential ground fall.

The crux of the climb is the top 1/3rd, with the final crux move the last move where you need to pull on a side cling with the left hand while reaching up to grab the not so good sloper to the left of the chains. If you can hold this long enough to release the left hand and bring it up to match with the right you can then move the right hand over to the right to the "Thank God" jug which is the final clip hold.

Great Warm up climb

First attempt, dogged my way to the top and figured out all the moves.

1 Fall dogged ascent