Nice short route at left end of the magnificent East Face of East Dome. Pleasant climbing in cracks and good rock with satisfactory protection. Descent by abseil on the route, take care ropes are jamming.
P1: Start the rip left of the little cave. 2-bolt-belay at ledge or combine with next pitch.
P2: Follow the corner crack sytem. Sling belay left of the ledge (for abseiling) or more comfortable gear belay at the ledge.
Approach up Wadi S. Bach
Pitch numbers a bit different than the TH guide book
f5 - 50m Start between the block and the wall, head right to the flake and gain the ramp. Belay on big ledge, there is a bolt about 5m to the right.
Walk to the right about 20m, stop at the red wall just before the small roof system starts, still on the main face. You can see some features of P4
f5 - Slab a bit run out, belay on a big ledge. (possible to link with P4 stopping just short of the tree ledge). Variation pitch: The wall just 8m right of the bolt-belay (along a fixed sling which you can see from the belay) to the big ledge. Same grade (f5), better belay.
f5+ - Vertical crack, this might also be broken up into 2 pitches. Big abseil tree is to the right can end here or carry on. Ropes on tree look a bit old, but okay (tested 02/2023).
f5 - The grey slab in front of the big tree. Other topos say no gear but marginal cams can be placed, BD4 used.
(A short walk to the left before the start of this pitch.) f5, up the crack, physical, laybacks and jams
f5+ up the crack, physical, a mantel, slopey laybacks and jams, tough for the grade (possible option to swing out left on the face rather than direct
f3
f3
Descent:
Rappel Down the route, then either
- repel to the big tree and repels into couloir.
- or repels down the main face to the start (one being 60m to the bolt at the top of the 1st pitch).
