Start about 12 m left of 'Quo Vadis' where there is a steep buttress with fine cracks splitting it.
40 m. Climb up left side of semi-detached column until it is possible to stand on top of it. Move rightwards over wall to foot of crack which is climbed direct to belay.
42 m. Move up corner to overhang. Over this to flake then move up leftwards to grassy terrace.
40 m. Move left to obvious corner crack, which is entered with difficulty and followed to top.
(On the first ascent of this route Pitch 1 was done with aid. The first free ascent of this pitch was done on 2/1/77 by Iain Allan and Dave MacMullan )
Seriousness: 3
Start 5 m right of Devil Drives, in a left-facing crack. Jam up crack up to small roof. Step left and traverse for 3 m to enter a vertical gully. Up this and left to reach first belay of Devil Drives. Up this to belay in corner under steep grey crack.
Lay-back and jam up crack, up over the protruding flake. Continue up easier to the end of grey rock to base of red shattered wall. Move left and up the final section of Devil Drives.
About 30 m left of 'Juggernaut' there is an obvious pale-coloured corner which starts about 30 m up the face. Start below here at a small recess.
31 m Move up 3 m then traverse right to blocks. Up these making slightly leftwards to prominent finger of rock pointing at the ground. Move up right of rock-finger (peg runner), and climb to cracks and big ledge on top of block. Traverse left 6 m to a groove. Up this and climb bulge above. Now move up leftwards to a belay on arete beneath big corner. Peg belays.
31 m Move up 5 m to overhang. Climb this and move up slab above to start of groove (peg runner). Traverse left into corner and up this to make a difficult exit left at the top onto a ledge.
38 m Step right off ledge and pass obvious flake. Continue right and up diagonal crack (2 aid nuts). Move into recess at the top. Up broken rock to top.
Seriousness: 4
To the left of Gold Rush Buttress there is a smaller buttress. Directly above this, a grey wall is split by a plumb crack ending under a roof. The climb surmounts the smaller buttress from the left, ascends the crack then breaks through the roof and finishes above. Carry two or three BD #3 and same for #1, more is better since the crack can be slippery even when its dry (a scientific marvel).
Left of the smaller buttress, some large left-facing blocks can be seen. The larger of the blocks form an overhanging fist crack. Start below this. Avoid the crack by climbing to its left and up to the top. Belay directly below the plumb crack.
Climb the crack to the roof. It may be possible to break through the roof and belay above if gear and energy permit.
Climb the roof directly through the main crack. Exit to its right. Then meander right, then left towards a point on the left side of the prominent point jetting out on the skyline. Do not look for difficulties or placements for your gear. Note: After the Gold Rush exits to the right of the point mentioned above.
