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Route in Left end for selected grade

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Grade Route Gear style Popularity Crag
E1 UKT:5b The Big Corner

About 30 m left of 'Juggernaut' there is an obvious pale-coloured corner which starts about 30 m up the face. Start below here at a small recess.

  1. 31 m Move up 3 m then traverse right to blocks. Up these making slightly leftwards to prominent finger of rock pointing at the ground. Move up right of rock-finger (peg runner), and climb to cracks and big ledge on top of block. Traverse left 6 m to a groove. Up this and climb bulge above. Now move up leftwards to a belay on arete beneath big corner. Peg belays.

  2. 31 m Move up 5 m to overhang. Climb this and move up slab above to start of groove (peg runner). Traverse left into corner and up this to make a difficult exit left at the top onto a ledge.

  3. 38 m Step right off ledge and pass obvious flake. Continue right and up diagonal crack (2 aid nuts). Move into recess at the top. Up broken rock to top. Seriousness: 4

FA: Robin Harper & Ian Howell, 1975

Trad 100m Hell's Gate

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