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Route in Gold rush buttress for selected grade

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Grade Route Gear style Popularity Crag
{SA} 21 Lord Of War

To the left of Gold Rush Buttress there is a smaller buttress. Directly above this, a grey wall is split by a plumb crack ending under a roof. The climb surmounts the smaller buttress from the left, ascends the crack then breaks through the roof and finishes above. Carry two or three BD #3 and same for #1, more is better since the crack can be slippery even when its dry (a scientific marvel).

  1. Left of the smaller buttress, some large left-facing blocks can be seen. The larger of the blocks form an overhanging fist crack. Start below this. Avoid the crack by climbing to its left and up to the top. Belay directly below the plumb crack.

  2. Climb the crack to the roof. It may be possible to break through the roof and belay above if gear and energy permit.

  3. Climb the roof directly through the main crack. Exit to its right. Then meander right, then left towards a point on the left side of the prominent point jetting out on the skyline. Do not look for difficulties or placements for your gear. Note: After the Gold Rush exits to the right of the point mentioned above.

FA: Alex Fiksman & Johannes Oos, 19 Jul 2015

Trad 140m Hell's Gate

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